The insanity continues....2nd Pike, 2" now 46" 52#@26"

[half eye]

The last Osage I posted was from Jon W and made a real fine bow. Thought I would use a piece of Osage that I got from H Rhodes (thanks Howard) and a piece of my old stand-by (Ironwood) the idea is to build a couple of shorter bows and pull them babies back.....then pike 'em and see how short I can get and still maintain decent draw length, also to see the actual effect on draw weight.

Bow #1:  H Rhodes Osage  50" ntn,  45# @ 27" , 1-1/8 wide tapering to 1/2" tips and pin knocks
               Flat bow w/ circular tiller
Bow #2:  Ironwood (dead standing) 53" ntn,  55# @ 28" 15/16" wide tapering to 9/16" tips and pin
               knocks.....center is "D" section for 6-8" and transitioning to flat bow w/ circular tiller.

Plan on updating with progressive photos as the bow is piked down, right now here are the photos. Please feel free to chime in with questions and comments. One note, the Ironwood is pretty bent in both planes so I may flip the tips prior to piking.
rich

[half eye]

second set of pics

[NeolithicMan]

nice bows with killer weight for such shorties! love em both but im a little more drawn to the ironwood bow myself. really cool post man!

[burchett.donald]

Rich, This is going to be interesting to follow...One of the questions I've had for a while is on finger pinch at these bow lengths. Do you use a special grip on the string and how clean is your release. I know it would be touchy and something you would have to practice to get a clean release.
                                                                                                                          Don

[half eye]

thanks Neoman, I believe that if I flip those tips and shorten the first 1" the weight is going up some more.

Don, just a regular 3 finger (one over and two under) and yes the outside of the string fingers get callused up pretty good. As far as the release goes you are absolutely correct that little differences make big target errors. If I have a bow with long enough draw to reach a part of my face I make sure when that thumb knuckle touches....it does not move till the arrows hits.....floating anchor is more problematic as to a consistent release and that's part of the learning curve and probably different for each person. That's one of the reasons for trying to make short bows with enough draw to reach the face.
rich

[JonW]

Rich I know you got plans on piking but that Osage bow has at least another inch of draw if the tips work some more. I personally think 28" from a 50 incher would be insane!! But you know that anyway

[JonW]

You could foot draw it if you need to

[half eye]

OK wise-guy....I see what you mean....no pike till 28" and no I aint gonna foot pull it either. I'm gonna do that PDQ.
rich
PS: ya know that you and I aint all there dont ya?

[Josh B]

You and Jon are both nuts!  . I'll be watching with interest!  Too cool Rich!   Josh

[half eye]

Thank you Josh, yes I admitt I'm not all there dont believe there any hope for Jon either.....having said that There are a few more that would make that list, especially that fella out there in Kansas
rich
PS: your 2-cents comin after that stave you picked out to work on.

[Josh B]

Lol! Tou che' my friend!  You have counted coup  upon me! .  Josh

[JonW]

In all seriousness though, Rich that Iron wood bow has a spectacular tiller. I think you need to experiment with something else. Now get out there and whip out a couple more right quick

[half eye]

Jon....Here is the osage 50" er @ 28" of draw.....the weight stayed the same though because (I think) the flipped tips might be weak enough to take away some of the overall resistance anyway....here it is.

I may just take your advice on the Ironwood.
rich

[JonW]

Man o man you knocked that one clean out of the park buddy.

[half eye]

You and Howard got me spoiled with this bullet proof wood, eh?