Author Topic: Syringa character bow (updated) (Read 64694 times)

Keenan · « **Reply #60 on:** February 02, 2008, 08:59:06 pm »

Thanks Justin, Sorry not much progress the last few days, It's snowing bucket loads here right now. We have about 2 ft and another 10-16" on the way. Been a chore just keeping the paths to the shop,barn and chicken cope and the drive way is a whole other project. I should be back on it soon, Keenan

1/2primitive · « **Reply #61 on:** February 05, 2008, 09:54:15 pm »

I like the looks of it! It'll be a good character bow. After seeing your build along, I've decided that I'll get started on a rather crooked piece of wood I have sitting in my pile. Thanks!

Sean

Keenan · « **Reply #62 on:** February 06, 2008, 02:36:18 pm »

Sean, Thank you, I'm glad your endevering to start on a character challenge. Just take your time and if your not sure of how to approach something just step away for a little while and ponder your options. If your still puzzled just ask and I'm sure you'll get alot of help on here.

I've decided to make an attempt to even up the limbs a little more. The left limb with the dog leg is just a bit to long,so I will cut off the tip right at the string groves and file in some new ones. Also I have decided to try to remove some of the natural deflex right befor the dip,and also tame that reflex just a bit more this should help to ballance out the bow.
This shouldn't make a huge change, but the more I looked at it the more it bugged me. Keenan

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Keenan · « **Reply #63 on:** February 06, 2008, 04:56:39 pm »

Well here it is after a little tweeking. I heated very slowly with the heat gun to get a good even heat penetration then I used the table vice with some rubber pads in key spots to apply the presure. Then let it sit for several hrs. befor unclamping.
As I said, this wasn't meant to make big changes but just a little fine tunning to help the tillering. You can see it mellowed the kink just a bit more but that caused the tip to roll up a little so I heated that area and relaxed the reflex slightly.
Now it will sit for at least a day to gain back so moisture that was lost in the heating. "Golden rule" don't give to the temptation to string or work the limbs after heat treating any wood.
I suspect I will lose some of it but considering where we started from I didn't want to push it any more ,its been stressed enough already. Keenan

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El Destructo · « **Reply #64 on:** February 06, 2008, 10:00:31 pm »

Looks a lot better now Keean....dint want to push it too far anyways....I bet this little bump will make tillering a lot easier than it would have been before the Heat....good luck...you have more patience than I do!!!

Ryano · « **Reply #65 on:** February 19, 2008, 12:34:27 am »

Is this thing gona make it Keenan?

Keenan · « **Reply #66 on:** February 19, 2008, 05:15:11 am »

Yep Ryan, she's still holding together. Had to set it down for a little bit to figure out direction to go with finish and so forth. I've decide to go ahead and put some sturgeon skins on it. I am using the lighter underisdes that I had left over from another bow. I'll try to get this done and updated soon. Haven't done much since the last except to shoot it some and see if she's going to stay together. I am right handed and this is a lefty so I'm learning to shoot left handed.... Good thing I have a good backstop..

I'm begining to agree with JJ ,,,this is one ugly bow,,,,

Keenan

Keenan · « **Reply #67 on:** February 23, 2008, 12:38:25 pm »

Sorry for the delays on this one. I seem to be very ADD and I got excited about a couple other projects that I just couldn't put down.
The sturgeon skins I'm going to use are the lower side and are light colored and almost transparent. So I'm going to use Gordons method of black dye on the wood to try to enhance the color of the skin. I chose sturgeon because it will add some protection as a backing and I've never used the lighter underside of the skin and want to experiment on this one.
I used the rit leather dye straight out of the bottle. Wiped it on with a piece of rag then let it dry a for a day. Keenan

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Keenan · « **Reply #68 on:** February 23, 2008, 12:56:37 pm »

Next is finishing the tips befor the skins go on. I will give this one, deer horn tips to match the bone flake in the skins. I often use sheds that I find that are weathered or have been chewed on by the squirels. I like deer and elk horn because it is fairly lightweight and adds some protection and character to the tips. It can also be sanded and shaped to match the bow.
First I sand the tips at an angle to give a good platform for the horn. Then holding the horn behind the bow tip I try to match the flow of the back of the bow to mark the angle of the cut on the tip. I use a bandsaw to cut the horn but any saw will work. Just be carefull with powersaws as the horn is tough and can pull in towards the blade very fast.

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Keenan · « **Reply #69 on:** February 23, 2008, 01:09:08 pm »

After cutting the tips I will sand the on the belt sander till I get a good match up and the right angle. I try for more of a line up with the back of the bow. Keeping in mind the excess on the belly side can sand off. Also you will notice that the bow platform is generally wider then the base of the tip unless you tip is already very narrow. This also will sand off after the tip is set.
If the angle dosen't match, just sand more on the toe or the heal of the tip. If the toe of the horn tip is to long you can also sand on the top side of the horn tip to shorten the toe.
You can see the progression of the angle change from the first pic to the last. Notive the flow of the back of the limb to the tip.

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Keenan · « **Reply #70 on:** February 23, 2008, 01:25:25 pm »

Now to glue these tips on. I sand the sides of the bow tip, just slightly to help to stay centered during the glue up. Then I use a saw bade to score the surface of the wood and the horn by just a few good even pulls. Then dampen both parts lightly and then set with 5 minute epoxy. I've used everything from super glue,gorrillla glue, titebond and epoxy they will all work but epoxy is fast and clean-up is minimal. Also epoxy seems to take less clamping pressure. Sorry some of these pics are blurry. Keenan

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Justin Snyder · « **Reply #71 on:** February 23, 2008, 05:47:50 pm »

Looking good Keenan. Justin

Keenan · « **Reply #72 on:** February 23, 2008, 10:38:27 pm »

Thanks Justin. The encouragement is helpfull. This is the ugliest bow I've made in a long time. What was I thinking??

Here are a few pics of the nocks finished up. Next I will shape in the handle some more befor put on the skins. I wanted to use as much of the natural shape as possible. Right now it is a little to bulky and we want to make it comfortable and fit the hand better. Here is what I came up with, I left the natural angle but smoothed out some of the humps to fit the hand and sanded down the rub scar to give a better arrow pass.
Keep in mind this is for a lefty. The natural angle of the handle fits well to shoot left handed only. The arrow pass will be right about the top of the rub blemish.
My wife is wondering why all the handles I shape, look so much like a womens hips....

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El Destructo · « **Reply #73 on:** February 23, 2008, 10:48:09 pm »

Keenan..I like them Tips....gives me some Ideas on what to use all of the Sheds I have ....nice touch

Keenan · « **Reply #74 on:** February 23, 2008, 11:44:12 pm »

Thanks Yankee.
Today I will be putting on the sturgeon skins. I will be using sinew glue. It's not waterproof but the finish will protect it and I like the way it draws it to the bow when it dries. It's also alot easier to clean up afterward. The sturgeon skins is so rough with the bone flakes, that trying to get tightbond off after it has dried, can be a real bear.
I start by cutting in a notch for the tip and make sure the lengths are good as well. An old pair of scissors works well (not your wife's good pair)

I also cut off the larger bone flakes on the side so they wont hang on the wrapping.Then I put the skin in a pan of warm (not hot) water. Then I put a coat of the glue on the back of the bow to start soaking in.
While the skin is getting rehydrated I prepare the wrap. For this I like to use self adhereing drywall tape, (fiberglass) Rut Roe, I said the (F) word. Befor anyone crucifies me, Let me say this is only a temp wrap and WILL BE THROWN AWAY AND BURNED

I like this as a wrap because it's easy to work with, it's cheap, it allows air to the skin for faster drying, and you can see through it to see if the skin is where it needs to be.
I cut it into 3/8 - 1/2" strips that are about 3 ft long.

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Primitive Archer