sealing river cane

[Danzn Bar]

I recently made 6 hill cane arrows from cane that was cut in 2006, 30" long, 5/16" at the nock, 3/8" at the point with 125gr points and they weigh between 552gr to 606gr. These were sealed with 2 coats of Tru-Oil, have self nocks(no inserts) with sinew wrap and the forward end of the fletching has sinew wrap.

Boy.. I'd like to see those....what kind of point did you put on them, Pat.... glue on field??
DBar

[Pat B]

Field points for now, DBar. I can add stone, trades or commercial points for hunting easily enough.
I'll get a few pics and post them.

[Pat B]

...and here they are. I bare shaft shot these (a first for me) and the ones with the white fletch hit the target broadside at about 10 yards. The ones fletched with barred turkey feathers all shot straight when shot bare shaft. After fletching they all fly well but the white fletched arrows have a bit of wobble. They are a bit too stiff. The barred feathers are secondary precuts that someone sent me. They are a bit noisy but it doesn't affect the flight.

[Danzn Bar]

Thanks Pat, those look really nice. 
"hit the target broadside at about 10 yards"  Ha, I've had some that was fletched do that!

Really like your nocks,  I've heated some with a candle that was shaped like yours and pinched the tips together just a bit, made self  "snap on" nocks.  Works well when hunting.

Thanks again for posting pics
DBar

[PEARL DRUMS]

Bill try drilling a small 3 or 5/32 hole a 3/8" down the nock end. Then cut in the groove. It will create a snap feel without heat. Learned that from staring at Artsy's work. Mr Butner builds one of the best arrows Ive seen.

[autologus]

Bill try drilling a small 3 or 5/32 hole a 3/8" down the nock end. Then cut in the groove. It will create a snap feel without heat. Learned that from staring at Artsy's work. Mr Butner builds one of the best arrows Ive seen.

I will echo what pearly said especially about Art's arrows I have one and it amazing.

Grady

[Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive]

I like to leave the rind on when possible, but if the arrow needs lightened in spine, I'll scrape it without any worries. I also barrel taper them after the last node.. which of course takes the rind off...  I don't seal any of my cane arrows and I have only on one occasion had them go crooked. It was a night that was hot and humid, then in poured all night and I left them under the fly of my tent, but with the hard rain, they got soaked anyways, then a cold front came in... by morning they were very warped.  So rule #1, don't leave them outside the tent..lol   ever since I have brought them inside with me and that day still remains the only day that I had any problems from not sealing. I can hunt in the rain without any problem, so long as i bring them in at night to dry. I think the temperature swing was as much at fault as the moisture.

[gutpile]

pat not sure how well the feathers are gonna stay and I guess if I just glued my feathers on I would scrap rine off...but I peel my feathers and leave a tab on front and back and sinew wrap them on...I never lose any feathers...looks like yours are already coming off.. nice looking arrows bro...

[Pat B]

Gut, where the feathers go over the nock at the rear they seem to be lifting a bit. I used fletch tape to mount the fletching. When I have left the rind on I would lightly sand the area with very fine emory cloth before fletching. The forward end of the fletching has been wrapped with sinew.

[JackCrafty]

Good question and answers.  Recently I had some unsealed shafts split in several locations after getting wet from rain and then drying in the sun.  I didn't even think to look at the cane until several days later because the rain came and went so fast that I didn't think it would matter.

Lesson learned.  I always seal my rivercane shafts with paste wax now.  I peel the rind off and dry the shafts completely (air dry) before sealing, though.  I also paint or stain the shafts before sealing: the wax will not allow anything to stick.

[gutpile]

Jack those shafts appear to of been sanded down and not sealed...that is probably why you had issues..I have hunted in wet conditions..( not a great idea with selfbows anyway..) and never had a problem with my cane arrows warping or splitting. My cane arrows are over 7 years old......of course they are in a plains style quiver that keeps them out of the elements too... bottom line and back on topic...I have found it unnecessary to seal cane... but to each his own...not saying its a bad idea just sayin I find it unnecessary...btw great topic  great question and good opinions on both sides.... gut

[JackCrafty]

Gut, yeah, they were raw shafts and not sealed.  And the rind was completely scraped off.  I don't leave them in that raw state for very long anymore, and definitely not on a finished arrow.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Sealed or not? Its hard to beat a cane arrow for durability, spine tolerance and weight. Love 'em. I make them quite plain. Usually 3 whites wrapped on or 3 naturals wrapped on. Cut a nock in a shoot!

[gutpile]

Jack had you not scraped the rhine off and they got wet I honestly don't think you would of had an issue.... and Pearl I agree cane is by far the best IMO for primitive arrows... can't disagree with that bro...gut

[JackCrafty]

Yep, the cane I have that is unpeeled is fine and never had a problem with cracking or splitting with it.  I just like the clean look of the peeled cane.