Author Topic: Vine maple question (Read 4772 times)

Pappy · « **on:** May 23, 2014, 05:31:20 am »

I am starting a bow made of Vine Maple[billets] that Keenan gave me a few years back. I have it spliced but wondering how it reacts to heat as far as straighting/reflex and heat treating and such.Never worked with this kind of wood before. It should be dry,at least 3 or 4 years old in the billet form and limbs roughted out. Any info would be appreciated.

Pappy

zenart · « **Reply #1 on:** May 23, 2014, 06:33:11 am »

Pappy, Bryce Vine Maple B-Along: boiling for bending limbs then a little dry heat to set the bend here: http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,46415.0.html

Pappy · « **Reply #2 on:** May 23, 2014, 08:27:06 am »

Thanks,was hoping to do it without steam/boil.

Pappy

MWirwicki · « **Reply #3 on:** May 23, 2014, 09:57:36 am »

The one that I worked on years ago, seemed to like wet heat better than dry heat.

Weylin · « **Reply #4 on:** May 23, 2014, 10:27:27 am »

Pappy. I think you'll be just fine with dry heat. I have successfully bent vine maple with dry heat alone. I'd say if you are doing anything radical then dry heat will do the job. If you want some extreme hooks then I'd boil it like Bryce does.

Pappy · « **Reply #5 on:** May 23, 2014, 11:52:14 am »

Thanks, no not planing on anything radical,just some alignment and a little reflex.

Pappy

HickoryBill · « **Reply #6 on:** May 23, 2014, 01:11:08 pm »

I built a viney a couple months ago..I used dry heat to straighten it out and add some reflex..Worked good for me..

huisme · « **Reply #7 on:** May 23, 2014, 03:16:33 pm »

It seems to bend well under dry or wet heat for me, though wet seems slightly easier to bend. I dry heat treat the belly thinking it'll help set the bend.

Gordon · « **Reply #8 on:** May 23, 2014, 08:48:26 pm »

I've used dry heat to bend vine maple lots of times. It also responds well to heat treatment as long as the stave isn't too reflexed - then it becomes unmanageable.

Bryce · « **Reply #9 on:** May 24, 2014, 03:59:22 am »

Yeah no need to boil or steam for small adjustments and a little flipping action.

I like to put in about 4" of heated reflex and usually end up keeping 2 1/4"

Can't wait to see it all finished!

Pappy · « **Reply #10 on:** May 28, 2014, 06:40:35 am »

Thanks guys,dry heat seemed to work fine, I have gained a lot of respect for you boys out west that make very nice bows from this stuff, It may be the piece I have but very tough to scrape without chattering and seemes really stringy,very different from what I am use to.64 n-n 1 I have it braced but seem it is very /thick on the limbs for the weight I want, at least the diminutions I am use to, $:-\$ 1 1/2 to mid limb then tapered to 3/8 at the tips, 4 inch handle 1 1/2 fads hoping for around 50@26 the good news is it is very light in physical weight,hope to get it shooting by the weekend.

thanks again for your input.

Pappy

IdahoMatt · « **Reply #11 on:** May 28, 2014, 09:33:41 am »

Can't wait to see it pappy. No progress pics on this one

Pappy · « **Reply #12 on:** May 28, 2014, 09:55:42 am »

Maybe a few Matt, 1st and 2nd roughted out and splices, 3rd off the form all straightened out,well mostly

4th ready for 1st low brace and tip over lays for safety,wood seems a little funny and don't want any splits or suprises at the string nocks.

Now I have it back on the form for heat treating and will carry on in a few day when it re hydrates a bit.

Pappy

IdahoMatt · « **Reply #13 on:** May 28, 2014, 09:59:10 am »

Looking good Pappy. Thanks for the photos. You know how it is. I love pics

huisme · « **Reply #14 on:** May 28, 2014, 06:02:58 pm »

Yeah, after my first two BL bows and using vine maple for my third I thought the limbs were fat too

It's stringy stuff and I combat chatter too. I once swung my machete into the belly of a fresh stave and a whole growth rung split from about the handle-to-be to the end of the stave, leaving a clean ring dug out and exposed on the belly. Wish I'd stopped for pics

Primitive Archer