More bending advice please

[Don Case]

This is another Ocean Spray stave that I have to bend. It's 1 1/2" dia at the handle. The handle is kerfed to the pith because OS will split anyway. The natural bend is right at the handle. In hindsight I should have cut it differently but what's done is done. Anyway I'm afraid that when I steam it and clamp it, it may split. I was thinking about cutting a piece of wood to put in the kerf to stop it from compressing. Any other suggestions.
Thanks
Don

[Pat B]

What does the rest of the stave look like?  Is it necessary to bend it or can you deal with the sideways bend in the handle?

[Don Case]

A string from end to end misses the center of the handle by about an inch. It's hard to see in the picture but the string runs right down the left side of the handle. It doesn't need to bend all that much. I was going to narrow the handle a bit first.

[Josh B]

Ive never tried to bend a Kerf cut handle (or ocean spray), but I can't imagine that would work out very well.  I would probably establish my front profile and bend it further down the limb.  Purely speculation on my part of course.  Josh

[Bryce]

since the string alignment isnt that far off and steaming the handle might end up in more cracking.

i would use side nocks to bring the string over a bit

[Don Case]

Looking at the picture is making me think that maybe a sideways bend in the top limb might be the way to go but I have to make an insert for the kerf anyway so I thought it might stabilize it enough to bend it.

[Pat B]

Don, you can't tell how the string will track until first brace.

[Don Case]

The string has to move over about 3/4" to be on center. If I have 1/2" tips side nocks would only move it over 1/4" wouldn't it? Or is that close enough?

[Don Case]

Don, you can't tell how the string will track until first brace.

Ah, patience Grasshopper. OK I'll wait. It's not dry enough yet for tillering.

[randman]

I would leave it just like it is and do like Bryce said use side nocks to make the string ride closer to the handle center. I doesn't look that bad to me....I sometimes prefer side slung strings just like that anyways....makes em almost center shot...just add a small shelf (if you gotta have one) to the grip wrap and there ya go....done a couple of OS that way and I have a nice Syringa bow of Keenan's done that way also....anyway with OS what you got is what you get....it don't like to bend, heat, steam or otherwise. At least I've not had any luck with that. And if it's not dry enough for tillering, I wouldn't use any dry heat on it or it'll check like crazy....(don't ask me how I know)

[bubby]

mind you I've only built one OS bow, when I got it I wrapped the ends from the tip 6" with innertube and put lots of glue on the ends, this stopped the checks that had started and I left it set untouched for maybe two years, the handle didn't check like that, from what I understand OS takes a long time to dry out

[mikekeswick]

If it's too wet to tiller it's too wet to move with heat in my experience. At least if you want to be certain it won't move again.

[Don Case]

the handle didn't check like that, from what I understand OS takes a long time to dry out

Bubby
The handle didn't check like that, I sawed it. I have had the best luck with drying OS by exposing the pith. If I leave the handle area in one piece it(the handle) has checked badly. By cutting it I am trying to control the checking. If you expose the pith OS does not check, at least in my area(high RH). I have a couple dozen slabs that I have cut off when roughing out that have had no treatment (glue, shellac etc) and they have no checks. I'm thinking that ideally OS should have at least a year of drying.