BBI EWB building program in China

[leehongyi]

the onion looks a little swollen！

[toomanyknots]

"the onion looks a little swollen！"

lol, a little bit maybe,  . Looks good!

[leehongyi]

horn nocks
how to match is a challenge~
i mainly used two methods:1.drilled a hole in a woodblock and then cut it half so as to measure the tip match degree. 2.before gluing, thrown the nocks into boiling water for 5 minutes and soon inserted the bow tip in as hard as possible. once cool, the hole and the tip match perfectly.

[leehongyi]

perfect match!

[leehongyi]

not a onion anymore

[WillS]

Cool tip with the boiling water! I do the same with my arrow inserts but didn't think of trying it with bow nocks.

The shape of your nock is interesting - there's quite a lot of horn there that you don't need and they're very ornate.  They look more like Victorian target bow nocks than warbow nocks.  If that's what you're going for then it's fine (I actually think for Victorian nocks they're pretty cool!) but it's worth maybe looking at replicas of Mary Rose nocks to get an idea of what most people do. 

The guy who makes the absolute best warbow nocks is Dave Pim.  I was at a shoot with him on Friday/Saturday (before the great English weather ruined everything...) and some of the nocks on his bows were beautiful (and absolutely tiny!) He only uses just enough to protect the bow tip, no more.  You want the tips as light and aerodynamic as possible for the best cast.

Here's his latest article on the EWBS website about making medieval warbow horn nocks.

http://74.209.214.7/~englishw/TudorSidenocks.html

Anyway, that's not to say yours aren't nice because they are!  Your bow looks great and the project is coming along nicely so well done.  I'm looking forward to seeing the finished bow!

[leehongyi]

Cool tip with the boiling water! I do the same with my arrow inserts but didn't think of trying it with bow nocks.

The shape of your nock is interesting - there's quite a lot of horn there that you don't need and they're very ornate.  They look more like Victorian target bow nocks than warbow nocks.  If that's what you're going for then it's fine (I actually think for Victorian nocks they're pretty cool!) but it's worth maybe looking at replicas of Mary Rose nocks to get an idea of what most people do. 

The guy who makes the absolute best warbow nocks is Dave Pim.  I was at a shoot with him on Friday/Saturday (before the great English weather ruined everything...) and some of the nocks on his bows were beautiful (and absolutely tiny!) He only uses just enough to protect the bow tip, no more.  You want the tips as light and aerodynamic as possible for the best cast.

Here's his latest article on the EWBS website about making medieval warbow horn nocks.

http://74.209.214.7/~englishw/TudorSidenocks.html

Anyway, that's not to say yours aren't nice because they are!  Your bow looks great and the project is coming along nicely so well done.  I'm looking forward to seeing the finished bow!

Thank you so much for your suggestion and recommendations. I am a beginner at Ewb thousands miles away from its origin. Luckily meet you guys through PA. I will look at the link soon.

[toomanyknots]

Looking good Leehongyi! Thanks for the link Will. It's interesting to see how other people do it.

[leehongyi]

tillering... everything seems well now. any advantage?

[leehongyi]

well, is that ok?

[DarkSoul]

Looking good

It looks like there are two strings on the bow in pic *IMG_4254.JPG*. Is it braced there, or with a long string? I can't tell. If it is with a long string, try shortening the string as much as possible. Do you know at what draw weight you are now? When making a heavy warbow, you should try to pull your bow to full draw weight as early on in the process as possible.

[leehongyi]

Looking good

It looks like there are two strings on the bow in pic *IMG_4254.JPG*. Is it braced there, or with a long string? I can't tell. If it is with a long string, try shortening the string as much as possible. Do you know at what draw weight you are now? When making a heavy warbow, you should try to pull your bow to full draw weight as early on in the process as possible.

thank you~
it's still at long string phase now. the short one is just what i used to check the height, not a string for this bow. you mean if i want a 100# bow, i should pull it to 100# as early as possible, and then tiller it from that draw length to 30-32"? What if the belly wood over compresses before i get the ideal poundage and would it cause a set? i really don't know much about the warbow tiller. it seems that there are a lot of secrets!
tell me, pls.

[Del the cat]

Read this post on my blog, it tries to explain the difference in poundage with a long string and a braced bow.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/yew-stick-bow-and-draw-weight-to-brace.html
Del

[leehongyi]

Read this post on my blog, it tries to explain the difference in poundage with a long string and a braced bow.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/yew-stick-bow-and-draw-weight-to-brace.html
Del

I draw a picture to show. is that right?
if I didn't get my purpose poundage using a long string at braced height, i would never get it later, right?

[Del the cat]

No!
In picture number 3. The important thing is the tip deflection of the bow. (NOT the string position)
When the tips come back 6", then fit a short string.
See new picture...
Also long string should be only just long enough to get on the bow... not like in your picture.
Del