Cutting white wood in winter?

[IdahoMatt]

Thanks for all the great advise.  I think I might head out sometime soon just to get rid of some cabin fever.  I'll harvest just a few of each species, and scout for some other while the leaves are off.  Mt. Maple grows pretty thick, kinda hard to see when in peak growing season. 

Thanks again folks.  Matt Kulchak

[PatM]

I cut in late spring and summer and the bark peels right off and you don't have to fool with tools or anything like that.  It's worth the wait. 

You can still get the bark off pretty easily in the winter if you don't let it dry in place.

  I have not had that experience.  Are you talking about  getting it off with a draw knife or something?

In this case I am mainly talking about HHB. I just haven't had good luck cutting it in warm weather. I always just use a knife to shave most of the bark off and then use a spoon to scrape the rest off. I am very particular about not damaging the back in any way.

[osage outlaw]

Short answer, do both. Get a few staves now. They will tell you how tough they are to peel. They will also be seasoning from now and will be ready to work by the time spring comes around. Then get some more that are easier to peel.

I agree with Don C.  Cut a tree or two now and see how much time and effort it takes to remove the bark.  Cut some in in the spring when the sap is flowing and decide which you like better.  I've done it both ways and prefer to cut white woods when the bark slips right off. 

[lostarrow]

Winter is best from a wood structure point of view. Less water in the wood= less dry time, mold, warping ,checking and the layer under the bark is the late wood.   Best of all ( here anyway) you won't get one single mosquito or blackfly bite and you might not even break a sweat ! (-20C tonight)

[Pappy]

I prefer late spring or early summer,but will cut them when I get the chance also.
Del / not sure what kinder to the tree means,am I missing something 
   Pappy

[PEARL DRUMS]

I have mixed feelings. Early spring cutting makes it super easy to get a pristine back. However, by cutting early the tree has started its next ring of growth and its not as strong as previous years rings that had a full summer/fall to mature and grow, and harden Id imagine. Marc suggested that whitewoods get cut in the fall rather, after a full growing season. I tend to lean that way myself after thinking more about it. In the end? It probably is splitting hairs. Your tiller makes a good bow, not the season your wood was cut.

[Holten101]

I cut when I get the chance....but, in my experience winter cut wood have less risk of checking, dries quicker and is easier to split (if below zero).

Cheers

[George Tsoukalas]

I prefer to cut during the growing season because it is easier on me.
Biologically, the only living part of the tree comes off with the bark. It is the cambium layer which we call the inner bark. That's  the only part that has water in it besides the leaves and roots as it is the tree's transport system. That's why girding a tree kills it.

I agree with Don too. Cut some now and later. Wait a few days and draw knife the bark off. Get close with the draw knife and then take  a scraper to it.

Take  a  stave or 2 and floor tiller them. Getting them to bend an inch or 2. Monitor the moisture level with a moisture meter. If you don't have one, weigh the stave daily and look for moisture loss to be constant for a few days.

Above all...have fun!
Jawge

[lostarrow]

I prefer to cut during the growing season because it is easier on me.
Biologically, the only living part of the tree comes off with the bark. It is the cambium layer which we call the inner bark. That's  the only part that has water in it besides the leaves and roots as it is the tree's transport system. That's why girding a tree kills it.

I agree with Don too. Cut some now and later. Wait a few days and draw knife the bark off. Get close with the draw knife and then take  a scraper to it.

Take  a  stave or 2 and floor tiller them. Getting them to bend an inch or 2. Monitor the moisture level with a moisture meter. If you don't have one, weigh the stave daily and look for moisture loss to be constant for a few days.

Above all...have fun!
Jawge

 If the rest of the wood didn't contain water , we wouldn't have to dry it  .The Cambium produces the Phloem. The Phloem is what brings the nutrients to the new growth. The Cambium turns into sapwood, which contains a lot of water. The heartwood ,although it is essentially dead ,is still not dry.  In your white wood bow ,you will be using sap wood from the outside next to the bark for your bow, so it's going to have a lot of water. (use the inner bits as well of course)    There is reason behind cutting firewood in winter , taping maple trees in spring ,etc.
    You can cut any time of the year, just keep in mind the water content and how it effects drying. Good luck , and have fun!

[IdahoMatt]

Some many great responses with great reasoning.  Thanks you all.

[PatM]

Jawge, you've been misinformed. The moisture content of trees fluctuates dramatically throughout the year and not just in the outside layer.