Fixin Drawknife Handles???

[koan]

Just curious if anyone has tried this and the results they got from it... I collect old drawknifes for myself and to pass on to new bowyers. Most times the handles are in rough shape so i will turn some down on the lathe and replace them.. Almost always the bent metal tabs that hold them on will brake regardless if i heat them up or not wich results in me threading on a nut or welding on a washer to hold handles in place... My question is.. can i epoxy or put some other coating on the old punky handles to strengthen them instead of replacing them? Maybe a resin or epoxy, Massey finish maybe? Thanks for any input.... Brian

[bubby]

yeah you can epoxie them on I've done it

[koan]

I have only used the 5 minute 2 part epoxies... Is there a way to thin that out maybe and soak em?

[Tom Kurth]

My experience with five minute epoxy is that it's worthless compared to good quality boat-building epoxy--hardens slow, lacks strength. My experience with epoxy is glassing strip-built canoes. In that context you are discouraged from thinning because the solvents supposedly leave worm holes as they evaporate. Thus, I don't know if doing so would affect strength, but I think if you added something like glass fibers there wouldn't be a strength issue. I think there is a type of epoxy especially designed for soaking into wood to do work like restoring architectural elements that might work if you combine it with fillers.

Best,
Tom

[koan]

Thanks guys, im gonna search out some different epoxies and see what comes up... Brian

[Eric Krewson]

I have several old draw knives I planned to restore. I found that new end caps and top ferrules are impossible to find, I also found turning matching handles on my hobby lathe is very difficult. I may try again at a later date but for now I have my collection of less than perfect draw knives hanging on a wall as shop decoration items.

[koan]

Eric, i usually make them one pc then cut them in half.. I have made the end caps from washers by usin a ballpeen hammer and a soft pc of wood under.. Brian

[Pat B]

Brian, Keenan heats the prongs and forces them into the pithy part of antlers for new handles. The heated antler apparently makes its own glue.
 You can thin the epoxy with acetone. That is how I make Massey finish. I do use 2ton epoxy but I be the 5 minute stuff works just as well.
JB WELD is another option.

[KHalverson]

fwiw  a good soaking in minwax wood hardener may help with some of the handles

[koan]

Thanks K i will get some and give it a try

[ga6693]

I have only used the 5 minute 2 part epoxies... Is there a way to thin that out maybe and soak em?

The 5 minute two part epoxy's are generally heat sensitive, which can be an advantage or disadvantage according to the usage. If you don't like the way it sets, just heat it up and remove it. Most 5 minute epoxy's are not considered as strong as the longer setting ones. In a pinch you can use J&B Weld which is very strong and durable if you don't mind the gray color.
 

[Dvankirk58]

I used JB Weld to fix mine. Worked great.

[Pat B]

Brian, Massey finish is epoxy thinned with a solvent. I use it a lot with cord wrapped bow handles. I use the 2ton epoxy that comes in the double syringe and thin it with acetone. I never measure but mix it to the consistency I want, usually very watery. I mix the epoxy first before thinning but I'm not sure that is necessary.
 Once the acetone evaporates you give the epoxy the suggested time to cure and you are good to go. I just used some yesterday on a handle wrap for my trade bow.
 If you wanted to reattach the handle to the knife I would think making the epoxy pourable but not too thin would be your best bet.