Durable, waterproof sinew backing

[JackCrafty]

I've used Titebond III (waterproof) with sinew and the results are very springy and water beads on the surface.  Just use the Titebond III like you would hide glue:  size the wood with it, use plenty of glue with slightly damp or dry sinew, and put a layer of glue over the whole job when the sinew is dry.  Not primitive but it works.

(I'll probably get flack for this but, yeah, I said slightly damp or dry sinew.  IMO, too much water messes up the job.)

[BowEd]

kevin.....It's just a matter of putting waterproof barriers between the air and your sinew backing.TT3 with a snakeskin then varnish over that[that's 3 barriers] or epoxy and birch bark with varnish over that[that's 3 barriers too] is about the best that I've been able to do.I've personally hunted with a sinewed bow in light rain off and on with no ill effects,but I would'nt reccomend staying in a hard rain with it.I keep mine stored in the house dry too like Pat B.Here's my sinewed epoxy birch bark bow too.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Try dip sealing a sinewed bow once. Its incredible, and very, very effective. I use a 4" x 42" PVC tube with Helmsman satin. Nothing goes unsealed, and heavily sealed at that.

[BowEd]

snakeskin

[BowEd]

snakeskin

[BowEd]

I bet it did PD...I worry mostly about the back though where the sinew is on.I've had my sinewed bows out in the high humidityand heat along with misty weather.Not all day mind you but for 8 to 10 hours a day with no ill effects.There's no getting around the eventual creeping in of moisture if it's left out there long enough,That's just a fact.

[Carson (CMB)]

I havent tried this, and I doubt it is as effective as the Massey finish or others, but I have read somewhere that smoking a sinew backed bow helps make it resilient to moisture.  Like smoking braintan buckskin, the formaldehyde imparts some moisture resistance.

[BowEd]

Yes Carson I've read and heard the same.Tying the bows up abve the fire in the teepee.I know a film of smoke I would call kreosote would develope over the bows and that sure is waterproof.It's sticky at first then dries to be easier handled.I've even discussed making the glue with tannic water from soaking oak bark etc.but have never tried that either.Maybe at the classic when I have my lodge set up it could be done smoking a newly sinewed bow.

[kevinsmith5]

Ok along the lines of the snakes skin- could I rawhide over the sinew, gluing the rawhide down with TB3? For this "hey that looks like a horn bow but there is no horn" idea I think the skin wouldn't look as medieval as rawhide (remember this is a debate with an SCA member, it's as much about looks as anything else).

[PatM]

Composite bows were often covered with leather, rawhide,gut and even snakeskin during medieval times.
 However I think you are putting too much overall effort into a prop idea.
 I would follow  the  plan for the bow that Dauntless just posted and dress that up with faux  rawhide/gut(brown paper with Epoxy) and use an Epoxy with pigment to duplicate horn on the belly.
 Here is an actual composite bow from that period. This one happens to be entirely wrapped with a spiral wrapping of bark that completely covers any evidence of horn.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Zargalant+bow&FORM=HDRSC2#view=detail&id=05D723AB82580F93047746807668012D42E760D6&selectedIndex=0

[kevinsmith5]

It's not really a prop. It's for actual use in a target archery competition. I n debating what bows could be used in "period archery competition" the horsebow shooters pitched a fit over there being a rule against FG or carbon cores because they swore a horsebow made without FG would cost "$1200 or more" (they said that a bunch). So while all other styles would have to shoot all wood bows, they should be allowed to shoot FG. I'm out to show that's not true.

[PatM]

 I understand that. I just meant the prop aspect of looking the part. It shouldn't be hard to show them that a non-glass replica can be made for a few bucks plus time invested.

[Lukasz Nawalny]

shellac is traditional way. I use directly on sinew.

[Pat B]

Another traditional finish is called French polish. It is a mixture or alternating layers of shellac and boiled linseed oil.

[Bryce]

Fish skin, snake skin, bark, but nothing is tougher than rawhide and sturgeon skin. Those are the 2 most durable in my book, add 9 coats Tru-oil. And I have no problem hunting in downpours.