Arrow Nock Location

[SamIAm]

On a primitive bow, should the arrow be nocked and shot from the center of the bow?  I always assumed it would but it would appear from the handle designs that I've seen maybe not...the arrow, if shot from the top of your hand, would actually be one to two inches above the center.  What's the best location to nock the arrow, in most scenarios?  Thanks.

[artcher1]

Simplest explanation is to hold the bow in the hand as you described, BUT as you plan on gripping/holding the bow as you're actually shooting the bow, and then mark the top of the hand. You should have equal hand pressure on each side of the bow's center mark as you're doing this. This will reveal have far above center you need for this and other bows...........Art

[wood_bandit99]

I found it doesn't really matter unless you are OCD like me and want to know everything. it is fine 1-2.5" above center and I tiller my bows top limb positive by 1/4-1/8" I have researched and this is what I have found in the simplest answer. Everyone has their own ideas and this is a mix

[SamIAm]

Thanks Wood.  Just curious and had never heard or read about proper nocking location.  Glad to hear it's not critical.

[artcher1]

I found it doesn't really matter unless you are OCD like me and want to know everything. it is fine 1-2.5" above center and I tiller my bows top limb positive by 1/4-1/8" I have researched and this is what I have found in the simplest answer. Everyone has their own ideas and this is a mix

You can pull a number out of thin air some where between 1-2.5" and go with that if you want. Or actually take the time and do a little research on arrow pass placement and learn a little more about the subject. Proper grip/hand placement per arrow pass has a direct relationship on long term tiller health.

Gez, 2.5", really WB99? Maybe you would like to explain hand placement/grip for that measurement............Art

 

[aaron]

I agree with art. It is important to get the nock point exactly right for best arrow flight. There are a few factors that go into exactly where to put it- much of which has to do with the handle design. Usually, I make my bows so that the top of my hand is about 1 inch or less above center. Then I nock an arrow and rest it on the shelf (or hand). Next, move the nocking point up or down until the arrow is perpendicular to the string. Then, I move the nock point up 1/4 inch. This is my starting point. From there, I shoot a few arrows that are not fletched and try to see the arrow in flight- is it flying with the tail up or down? I then make small adjustments 1/4 inch at a time to try and correct the arrow flight- testing at least a half dozen shots for each adjustment. If you are new to archery, it may be hard to tell how the arrow flies because your shooting may not be consistent. If that is the case, you can just stop at the "starting point" of 1/4 inch above perpendicular.

[mje]

I've often read that the longer the arrow and the heavier the point, the less everything else about the bow and arrow matters. The Welsh longbowmen probably didn't have accurate spine gauges, or gram scales, but they did have long, heavy, arrows. My limited experience with self bows and shooting off my hand is that a longer than usual arrow with a heavy point will fly consistently so long as you have a consistent nocking point, wherever it is. Doesn't much matter if the tiller is perfectly even, or where you rest your arrow.  Thoughts?

[Danzn Bar]

"Shoot ....shoot more often.... I can't say it enough ................the more you shoot your arrow/bow combination the more you 'll know your best set up.
DBar

[J05H]

I think we need to be clear on what we're discussing here. I believe Sam was asking about nock point rather than arrow pass placement. To me 2.5" is a little high for an arrow pass, but persononal preference matters. Nock point is more critical. Arron covered nock point placement really well. Tuning your bow is important. Its good that your thinking of it.

[steve b.]

Doesn't matter as long as its consistent, regarding accuracy, that is. 

[Pat B]

My typical nocking point is 3/8" above vertical in relation to the arrow pass and I nock above the nock point. The arrow pass is generally about 1 1/2" above the center of the bow.

[Pappy]

About 1/4 to 3/8 above vertical on the string nocking point and about 1 1/2 above center on the arrow pass also,if my bow is equal length limbs which most of mine are. As I am shooting it in I move up and down the handle a small amount until I fine the best spot and mark that for my arrow pass then set my string nock accordingly. 
   Pappy

[BowEd]

Good thread here because when I first started shooting I could'nt tell if it was my form,the arrows,or the nocking point for my inconsistent shooting SamIAm,but like what Danzn Bar,aaron,Pat B,& Pappy said is the process I go.For my 4.5" bulbous handles my shooting rest is about 1.5" above center with equal length limbs.Then using my string square I put my nocking point about 3/8" above that.I'm usually really close then to where I want to be.Every bow can be just a tad different but not much.I know I've just beat a dead horse here but that's my two cents anyway.

[George Tsoukalas]

My arrow pass is usually at 1.25 in above center. Where the mock point is depends on where it needs to be to get good arrow flight.

I vary that 1.25 in measurement depending on the tiller. If need to make the bottom limb stronger I move it down.

There is tuning info on my site. Cannot post it from my iPod.
Always check tiller in a mirror or window at night to see while drawing.

Jawge

[WillS]

I've often read that the longer the arrow and the heavier the point, the less everything else about the bow and arrow matters. The Welsh longbowmen probably didn't have accurate spine gauges, or gram scales, but they did have long, heavy, arrows. My limited experience with self bows and shooting off my hand is that a longer than usual arrow with a heavy point will fly consistently so long as you have a consistent nocking point, wherever it is. Doesn't much matter if the tiller is perfectly even, or where you rest your arrow.  Thoughts?

I would have to totally disagree with that.  If you're talking about Welsh warbows and heavy war arrows, while the arrows and heads were much heavier - so were the bows!  They weren't shooting 32 inch, 1000grain 1/2" arrows out of 45lb hunting bows, they were coming out of 150lb war bows.  This means that everything was scaled up, not just the arrow.  If anything, tiller is even more important at higher weight because there is so much force on the limbs that any small error or hinge or mistake and the bow will quite literally explode in your face.