My flip tip is flipping me off (finished and broke, more pictures)

[Mad Max]

The right side is loosing the flip
Osage 66" NTN   shooting for 35# @ 28".  I am in the tillering process now    Half tillered to  26# @15" the flip tips are still 1/2" thick
this bow has been inside my house for 23 days and has lost 5 grams ( 28 grams in a ounce) of moisture.
the last 8 day with no loss. What should i do?



3/8" to 1/2"

 

The heat treat of the flip tip did work. Thanks Guys
This stave seamed to be very dry from the start, or a loss of oil from the wood or something?
I asked a question before ( can you add oil back to Osage??)
This bow was cracked from the beginning, and seamed to be very dry.
I tillered this bow with a c clamp at the fade crack.

http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0249_zps68f4bf84.jpg.html?filters[user]=136426681&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=6
sinew wrap after tiller

It is broke (cracked) in this picture



after tillering i herd a crack so i patched this spot.
today i was shooting and heard another crack.


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while I was heat treating the flip tip a crack developed here.
[URL=http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0259_zps562c3ade.jpg.html]

[mullet]

Make a bow .

[Mad Max]

It's almost there.
should i heat bend it again ???or clamp it on the form and heat treat??

[wood_bandit99]

Heat bend it again then wait a couple days and then make a bow

[BOWMAN53]

i say if the wood flips you off then you flip off the bow right back.

[BowEd]

Reclamp your tips to your original bending form.Heat them till brown.Do one and let cool an hour then the other.Let set a day or two and it'll hold.

[Mad Max]

Thanks Beadman
that is what i was thinking,     but not sure.

[BowEd]

You knew what to do man...You were just ansy about taking the plunge.

[Mad Max]

It's so easy to mess one up.
I'am taking my time on this one.

[toomanyknots]

If it doesn't take after this time, I would not try again. I think sometimes wood can be finicky, (maybe an internal knot you can't see, etc) and sometimes trying to force it to do something it don't wanna do can be bad. Remember, the wood should be nice and rubbery when you bend, if you have to force it, it ain't hot enough yet, and can break. I think too much heating over and over can result in brittle wood, which I guess don't matter too much on the belly when heat treating, but when trying to heat bend the wood it might be prone to cracking or lifting splinters, etc. If it was me, I would just remove a bit of wood on the left one, and exercise it on the tiller, little by little, until it matched the right one. I am lazy though, .

[twisted hickory]

Reclamp your tips to your original bending form.Heat them till brown.Do one and let cool an hour then the other.Let set a day or two and it'll hold.

+2

[Mad Max]

Thanks guys

[Capt]

really like this bow style..

Hope you don't mind but i have a Couple of questions?

Why are you shooting for such a low draw weight? any specific reason.. Does it have anything to do with what this recurve design will take i.e. max weight for this design at this length ?

I have an Osage stave on its way and will be shooting for a similar style but my stave is only 64" and i was wanting to shoot for a draw weight close to 60#....

Ive been told that this is easily obtainable with good Osage..... I may be looking at 62" NTN with my build..

I specifically want my bow as a hunting bow...

am i possibly aiming for the wrong style?

Should i forget about recurving tips and stick with a pyramid or Flat-bow Design? Would you typically get more power from a pyramid / flatbow than a recurve of the same NTN dimension or does this have no bearing.

Basically with a short Stave what design will give me more power? Recurve, Flat, Pyramid or other?

Any help with answers much appreciated?

[Mad Max]

really like this bow style..

Hope you don't mind but i have a Couple of questions?

Why are you shooting for such a low draw weight? any specific reason.. Does it have anything to do with what this recurve design will take i.e. max weight for this design at this length ?

I have an Osage stave on its way and will be shooting for a similar style but my stave is only 64" and i was wanting to shoot for a draw weight close to 60#....

Ive been told that this is easily obtainable with good Osage..... I may be looking at 62" NTN with my build..

I specifically want my bow as a hunting bow...

am i possibly aiming for the wrong style?

Should i forget about recurving tips and stick with a pyramid or Flat-bow Design? Would you typically get more power from a pyramid / flatbow than a recurve of the same NTN dimension or does this have no bearing.

Basically with a short Stave what design will give me more power? Recurve, Flat, Pyramid or other?

Any help with answers much appreciated?

  I have a left shoulder injury ,  I shoot lefty, but i am right handed. i need a performance bow to take up my slack.  this bow could make 60# or more.

[Mad Max]

Capt      I'am just having fun learning and  making these bows.
don't take my advice , i am still learning
Thanks