hazelnut bow in progress

[steve b.]

I'm making a bow for a trade.  Hazelnut is very light so I'm doing my usual overbuilding because the recipient has a 29" draw and so I can get away with some extra material with such light wood.
Its 68", slightly relexed, one limb perfect, one limb snakey with a few defects.  Mid limb is a valley which I'll probably fill before backing.   Can't cut the knots out cuz they move from the edge to the belly's middle.  The knots/slits on the tip will be overlayed--not a problem. 
I will probably back it but I'm gonna get it tillering before I decide on rawhide vs. sinew.

This is my second hazelnut and I'm really liking it.  It is very light, like yew, carves like soap, and is in great abundance around here.  Not sure of its properties but once I figure it out it will be a top wood for me.  I abused my first hazelnut bow during tillering and it shows little set after many arrows. 

[steve b.]

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[BowEd]

Like your future bow and your outdoor workshop.No vacuming after a session of working on the bow there.

[mikekeswick]

Hazel is excellent bow wood. Absolutely no need to back it - its very tension strong.
It prefers a rounded back or trap it.
To turn it into dream wood heat treat to a medium brown.
When you do this it will takes very low set and will really fling an arra.

[Del the cat]

+1 on what Mike said.
I'm always singing it's praises to guys starting out in the UK as it's so abundant and easy to work.
So many people recommend Ash to beginers which is like granite in comparison.
You can even make a nice bow with the bark left on plenty of linseed oil and beeswax polish helps keep it supple.
Have to ba careful where you leave the bow... put down in the woods, you may never find it again!
Sometimes if you carefully pick off the bark and cambium there is an attractive ridged surface.
I think the circled area in one of your pics is a nice pit full of cambium, pick it out and there may be a nice feature there....
Some pics on this post here:-
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/hazel-bow-pics.html
You've got some great looking bows in progress there.
Del

[dwardo]

+3

I have trouble finding anything of a decent width to make a heavier bow. Must look harder as the last hazel one I made was lovely to shoot.

[Badly Bent]

That stave looks like it'll make a good looking bow, got some cool character in it. Keep us posted with some pics as you work it into a bow, should be an interesting build Steve.

[steve b.]

Beadman--I love my outdoor workshop.  I just put down 14 yds. of wood chips so, yea, the shavings blend right in.

Mike/Del--Great feedback, thanks.  Just what I needed.  I'll definately heat treat. 

BB--thanks, I will.

[simson]

what Mike, Del, Dwardo said!
When backing hazel you loose the great advantage of super light weight wood. That stave is absolutly strong enough, no need to back it.

[steve b.]

Thanks simpson.  I was going to back only because of edge knot and/or the valley, not because the wood is inherently weak.

[steve b.]

The string was on the edge of the handle so I dry heated for an hour for an easy correction--not.  It would not budge.  I put all my weight on it and it just would not move.  I steamed the handle for another hour and it was all I could do to move it 1/2".   Other wood that I've done became rubbery and gave under pressure.  I never felt this wood give, all I heard was a crack and some dust flew off the handle.  This is using my weight.  Then I hung about 80 lbs. on it and let it cool.

Afterward I examined a shallow splinter on the arrow pass area.  It sanded off and disappeared so I think it is ok.  String looking good now.

[BowEd]

Nice snake along with the balanced limbs.Cool.Good luck about that cracking noise stuff.Hope it don't come back to bite ya later.I usually boil my handles on a pot that is about a foot wide to make sure it all gets steamed.For almost 2 hours one like yours or at least an hour and a half.Two chucks for spacers on the table at the fades and a big c clamp.

[Holten101]

The string was on the edge of the handle so I dry heated for an hour for an easy correction--not.  It would not budge.  I put all my weight on it and it just would not move.  I steamed the handle for another hour and it was all I could do to move it 1/2".   Other wood that I've done became rubbery and gave under pressure.  I never felt this wood give, all I heard was a crack and some dust flew off the handle.  This is using my weight.  Then I hung about 80 lbs. on it and let it cool.

Afterward I examined a shallow splinter on the arrow pass area.  It sanded off and disappeared so I think it is ok.  String looking good now.

That is unusual for Hazel. Mine plasticize quite quickly when I steam (never use dry heat when correcting a large mass like the handle area). I dont think you will get any issues from that crack....but it does sound like you put too much weight on it too soon.....the 80# seems excessive too. A good idea is to make a set up with a few lbs at the tip while you steam it...then the bend will happen at its own pace, and extension cracks like those wont appear.

And my usual cudos to people chooseing Hazel....the species it not for beginners at all (in my opinion).

Cheers

[mikekeswick]

Also watch for any pin knots as althought it's a great bow wood its compression strength around pins isn't great . DO NOT make it thicker to protect them leave it a little wider instead.

[blackhawk]

Nice wiggles...hope it works out for ya