unknown bow?

[snapback]

hi everyone!
have always wanted to build a primitive bow but have not had the time raising two boys and a full time job. after recently breaking a cam and riser on my compound bow. I have resorted to use an old bow that I picked up in a garage sale from Michigan. I desperately need something for this upcoming deer season to feed my boys. do not have the funds for replacement of compound bow.  this bow has no markings on it what so ever or a string to string it. was wondering if you guys knew what kind of bow this was or how I should go about stringing it it has a few appearance cracks but nothing through. any ideas? Thanks you.

[aaron]

looks like a fiberglass bow. typically old ones are only good if in near perfect condition. you'll get more knowlegable responses from a forum specialising in fiberglass bows like tradgang. You could just make a "board bow" . that is a quick primitive style bow made from some oak lumber.

[mikekeswick]

Well it's more than possible to make a bow in a few hours. Granted if this is your first it will take longer but if you go out and get a good straight grained board and post pics we can have you shooting your own bow in a few days.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Thats an old Pearson I think. Maybe a Colt.

[mullet]

Ben Pearson, Colt, the first glass bow I ever had. Traded a BB gun for it.

[snapback]

15 years ago i did that after first reading article in primitive archer magazine. I got a piece of oak from a pallet and when tilling it broke it. Since then obtained pieces of hickory for splitting into staves but didn't think about sealing after cutting. Nor had the means of cutting or splitting them. I have access to allot of different wood types. Locust, elm, ash, hackberry, mulberry. I cut firewood every fall and spring for winter burning. Don't know ifi have time to cut now and have bow ready by October deer season. Needing something fast and don't want to rush making a quality bow. How long should i wait to split a piece of elm after cutting green and sealing?  Can i use dead fallen although many dead fallen are big trees and big they are hard they are for me to split into 72" staves? Thanks for info guys. Nobody around here does this sort of thing all mainly compound bow Hunters, so really no one to ask about this topic. Thanks again!

[Thesquirrelslinger]

1. dead wood doesn't make good bows- exceptions osage and yew. White woods rot too fast.
2. Go to a lumberyard and buy a 72" oak 1x2.
3. Make a bow- its long enough that it will forgive most tillering errors.
4. Locust, elm, ash, hackberry, and mulberry are all very good bow woods.\
5. Split it ASAP!
6. dead fallen stuff is usually rotten- #1.

[snapback]

4. Locust, elm, ash, hackberry, and mulberry are all very good bow woods.\
5. Split it ASAP!

Do i seal it or just start making a bow?

[bubby]

I that a lefty? if you need a bow fast and that glass bow dont work out, i'd put a string on it and fin out, get a good hard maple board and build a pyramid bow  I posted a  link to a build a long http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html

[snapback]

no its all right handed bow. can I use any kind of string to string it up or will I have to go to a body shop closest one around here is Cabelas about an hour away. I will check that link out. Thanks.

[mullet]

Use a B-50 or equivelent. Don't use fastFlight.

[snapback]

4. Locust, elm, ash, hackberry, and mulberry are all very good bow woods.\
5. Split it ASAP!

Do i seal it or just start making a bow?


can i make a bow out of green wood?

[Thesquirrelslinger]

seal the ends... and let it sit for a week or so.
you can make a survival bow from green wood- but keep in mind its less than 1/2 as strong as dried, cured wood.

[snapback]

is this the normal amount of time to let sit for seasoning or curing cut wood lengths or split and quartered lengths? thought some let sit after cutting for months not sure and not sure what it is called?

[robby]

Looks like an old Bear. They used that rusty red fiberglass a lot back in the fifty's. I have seen many of them and they all had those longitudinal cracks in the glass. I'm not sure if it will hold up but its worth a try if that's what you got! Always trying to do the best with what you got, a primitive concept that still works! If you can find a shop that sells traditional strings, start with one that is about 5" shorter than the unstrung measurement from nock to nock, I cannot remember the brace height, but it is probably in the 7" to 8" range. All the best to you, I hope you can make it work!
Robby