Layering of sinew on horn bow.

[BowEd]

Ok now that I've got this digital camera I'm gonna go nuts here.Here are some pics of my future turkish horn bow that I grooved and glued together back in March[hide glue].Reverse brace not too bad so far.No twist  at all.This is the first of three sinew layers to be put on.Reverse braced for a week then second course put on.Reverse braced some more.Then a week later the third course and reverse braced for final time and left to cure for probably six months.I'm a little worried about the tips not being set back enough but I think it will be Ok and I will cross that bridge tillering when I get there. I'm putting the sinew on according to Adam Korpowits book and Jeff Schmidts' reccomendations.

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[Bryce]

Jeff Schmidt is a smart fella and has alot of bows under his belt. Following his advice is wise. Sounds like you have a good start. Have a little faith in your work and it will be fine:)

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[M-P]

Beadman,  You appear to be doing a great job of sinewing.   The pics don't really show any reflex in the Kasan (tip).   I suspect that is going to change how the bow shoots.   Ron

[BowEd]

Diddo on Jeff Schmidts' insight about horn bows.The tillering part will be derived from Adams' insight.I already scraped a little and stressed a limb a little bit to get it to be more symetrical as it's reverse braced.It'll be OK.I'm referring from experience of that move because of sinewing and reverse bracing bows in the past.

[BowEd]

Yes M-P I know.As I said earlier I'll work that out better later.Maybe dry heat in the kasan eye area more.If you look on the hunnic bow that opukc ran a thread on of his friends bow they still draw & shoot pretty good.His has less reflex than mine yet.The core itself on the last six inches of this one was steam bent 2" before the siyah was glued in so there is set back in the kasan eye area.We'll see.Live and learn you know.

[BowEd]

Should of flipped a couple of those pictures.I will try to get a flat back with the sinew on this.Kind of different from when I sinewed self bows but will try to spread the tension over the whole back.Rounded belly of horn.Core is just an 1/8" thick.Shooting for at least 60 pounds at 28".How much sinew I put on will determine that from now on.The bow is 50 and 3/4" long NTN.A little bit on the longer version of turkish bows which might help with string angle at full draw some too.

[BowEd]

Guess I should mention I don't have any high aspirations of setting a land distance record here but to just get a functioning shooting bow from this build that is pleasant to shoot and efficient.They are a lot of work for sure but there is always something to be learned from builds and this is no different.Doing something different is fun.First time I think I'm making a bow not for hunting specifically but just to shoot at the range.Now someones' gonna come on here and say why not hunting?Could be maybe but it's not a bow yet.The hunting might happen I don't know,but if I can swing this one without it exploding on me I know I'll feel a good sense of accomplishment that will be different than any of my other bows.

[M-P]

Beadman,  My guess is that the longer limbs and straighter kasan will make for a less stressed bow.   It should still be enjoyable to shoot, even if it doesn't set speed records.     Ron

[BowEd]

M-P...I will try my best to keep reflex in the sal applying sinew and keep it stiffer in the kasan area as much as I can without putting too much sinew in the kasan area.I know it's quite a build not having the set back in the tips as much as it really should.I was worried about that from the beginning.I thought about glueing edge grain layers of wood and horn to the last 4 inches of tips but was told it won't make any diff[picture].Have you got a few of these builds under your belt?