Tillering question.

[mwosborn]

Was shooting a few of my self bows today - I noticed that some of them like a low wrist grip and others like more of a high wrist grip.  Just trying to figure out the why.  I am sure there are many variables, but can there be any generalizations about the tiller and pressure points when gripping.  It seems to make quite a difference in how the bow shoots and feels when shot.

I am still a newbie to this self bow building - currently working on my 8th and 9th.  If I could figure out the why, I could plan for it and not just experiment with the bow once I start shooting it. 

Thanks for the help!

Mitch

[Slackbunny]

I would guess that it has more to do with the shape of your handle than the tiller of your limbs, unless all your handles are the same, then I don't now what to tell you.

[DarkSoul]

What exactly do you mean by a 'wrist grip'? Maybe it's just because English isn't my native language, but I can't quite figure out what you mean...

Either way, it sounds like it's more of a shooting form or handle issue than a tiller issue.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Mitch my bows where the same way until I took a bit of leather and made a 1" x 2" roll. I sit it on top of my tree, compensating for the extra draw length of course. It mimics my hand better than a 2 x 4 does. I place the leather roll 1" - 1 1/2" beyond center towards the upper limb, right where my hand sits. If you make one up? Try tossing up a few bows that feel quirky to you. I bet you will find the upper limb wants to fight you and dip too low. Dont be scared to grab a scraper and fix them. It only takes 2-3#'s to make a big difference.

[Roy]

Where my bows sit on the tree is only 1 inch wide.

[mwosborn]

Thanks guys.  My current tree does have a 2x4 that the handle rests on so most of the handle is resting on it when i am tillering.  I did have a belt system that I didn't like.  Think I might try narrowing that down the 2x4 - might try the leather idea Chris. 

Roy looks like your tillering "platform" is dead center in your handle and your pulley system is about an inch to an inch and a half to the right.  Assuming that is your shelf location?  Good tillering would keep the bow for tilting one way or the other.  Poor tiller would cause the bow to tip to the strong side?

DS - by high wrist I mean your wrist is straight and not bent - most of the pressure would be in the area between thumb and index finger.  Low wrist would be a bent wrist and more of the pressure on heel part of your hand.  Kinda of a glass bow term.

My thinking was that with the high wrist my "fulcrum" is closer to the shelf and with the low wrist my fulcrum is lower and further from the shelf.

I can see a narrower platform on the tillering tree more imitating a hand drawn bow.

[Roy]

Exactly Mitch. Those two black vertical lines you see, the right line is for tillering for split finger and the left line is for tillering for three under. Tillering for three under put's more even strain on the limbs than split finger does because you are pulling closer to the center of the bow.

[mwosborn]

Thanks man!  I might get it.

[Roy]

And on the floor I have a 2 inch pulley mounted on a 1/2 inch shaft, I can slide the bottom pulley left or right and lock it down so the center of it aligns with either one of those black lines and I have another 1/2 inch shaft mounted close to the floor but on the wall that the tag end of the pull rope is tied onto, so I can slide it left or right to align with the pulleys. That way either way I tiller, my pull rope is pulling straight down. If you look at the pulley on the floor, you will see a block of wood behind it laying flat on the floor, that is to keep the pull rope from coming out of the pulley when the rope went slack. It is about 1/16th inch off the lip of the pulley. I used to get so damn mad when the rope came off the pulley, LMAO. Also on each of those black vertical lines I have my draw length marked out in one inch increments. I have holes drilled into the wood at every inch line. I stick a 4 inch bolt into those holes and clear through the wall and pull the bow string down and hook it under the bolt. Then I run my tillering gizmo on each limb to mark my high spots, take the bow off the tree and scrape the high spots and back on the tree it goes and I pull it 30 times every time I remove wood. This is how I achieve the really nice tiller on my bows. So now I gave you all my secrets Mitch. LOL

[mwosborn]

Roy - Thanks for the detailed pics.  That helps a lot.  I need to work on my tillering set up.  I think it is doing adequate, but I would like it better.  I shot both of the bows I am working on a bunch tonight.  The little Osage shoot pretty well and since I am at weight I think Iam going to stop and finish her up.  The sinew backed ERC also shoots pretty nice - funny thing with it, is I can flip it over and have either limb as the top and it shoots about the same either way - shooting off my hand.

Oh, and your secrets are safe with me.  Will take em to the grave!  LOL

[burchett.donald]

  Roy,
         Really like your idea there on drawing the lines and pulling the string from the arrow pass. That would balance me out quicker and when I get close to a final tiller go to the mirror because mine always changes slightly once I draw it off the tree. Again really like...