Author Topic: Boards -vs- Staves (Read 7787 times)

Pappy · « **Reply #30 on:** December 21, 2012, 08:21:46 am »

Never build a board bow,not because their is anything wrong with them,just never had the need. I have seen some really beautiful board bows and may give it a try one day. $:-\$ Go with what you have and yes boards will make a meat maker for sure.

Merry Christmas.
Pappy

blackhawk · « **Reply #31 on:** December 21, 2012, 08:43:40 am »

Well by golly someone send pappy a board..he don't know what he's missing

Pappy · « **Reply #32 on:** December 21, 2012, 08:55:18 am »

O I got a board.

I usually build more bow shed space with mine.

Pappy

blackhawk · « **Reply #33 on:** December 21, 2012, 09:03:29 am »

Well then...sounds like you know how to use a board for its real intended purpose

burn em up chuck · « **Reply #34 on:** December 21, 2012, 09:08:38 am »

when I lived in the northwest finding logs was a "clearmyheadwoodscouting" therapy. Like really needed a reason to go to Gods country. Gifford Pinchot what a happy place, oh wait it is it is a real place. Haaaaaa

jimmy · « **Reply #35 on:** December 21, 2012, 10:44:56 am »

I always thought that a lumber yard challenge would be cool. Hunting equipment made completely from stuff at the lumber yard, bow, arrows, broadheads, etc., complete with pics of a successful hunt (whitetail preferable). It would be the opposite of using the woods for your resources. Almost an urban survival thing. I get what I want and need from the woods, but it's fun to change it up a little. Hell, even Ishi used some modern stuff just because it was available and worked for what he needed. So anybody out there, keep this in mind: A "Home Depot Hunt". I know it's silly but it would be fun.

Wooden Spring · « **Reply #36 on:** December 21, 2012, 11:53:31 am »

Quote from: lesken2011 on December 20, 2012, 09:53:30 pm

I, for one, started with boards due to availability and budget. There is a lot to learn for beginners about different woods, designs, and tillering without adding the complexity of knots and curves. I think the early successes I had encouraged me enough to keep learning. I might have had success starting with a stave, but I doubt it, since I had no one to mentor me in person. While I fully intend to broaden my horizons and work some staves, I doubt I will ever stop working with boards.

See, and that's exactly my case - I'm a beginner... ULTRA novice if you will - I feel more like I'm in uncharted waters than I was the first day that I decided that I liked girls... I'VE GOT NO CLUE WHAT I'M DOING! I figure that if I can make all of the mistakes that I can (I'm on my 5th ELB now - all board bows) then when I'm ready, I can take what I've learned to a great stave. Until then its just trial by fire...

And another thing... You know all those people who post pictures of their "first bows" and it's a beautiful, functional work of art? Well, great for them, but I'm sure they're not learning a dern thing. I've learned more about what can go WRONG with a bow build that I could write a book. Seriously, can you imagine how horrible it would be if EVERYTHING we ever did in life we got right on the first try? Seriously, if that were the case, then I would have married my high school sweetheart.... Eeeeeeeeeewwww.... OK, I'm going to need to see a pig getting slaughtered to get THAT image out of my head...

OK, back to the wood shavings...

hurlbri1 · « **Reply #37 on:** December 21, 2012, 12:20:04 pm »

I am still a beginner. I have 2 working bows, one I hunt with. Just finishing a 3rd--all with boards, never a stave...yet. I've read exenstively about reading grain on suitable boards for bows, but experience is the true teacher. I thought I had a great piece of White Oak, then, when I pushed her to over 50#, she exploded. I studied the break and finally made the connection about bad grain and grain "running off the edges". The worst part, is that the bad grain was always there and I was naive evough to think other aspects of the board would save it. Nope--when it comes to boards, grain is king.

TBB2, I think, has the board bow section and it's extraodinarily helpful, so I'd study that section. The bent stick advice about boards is helpful as well. And the single best place for advice is right here in this forum.

Good luck!

-Bri

One good thing though--all my 9 mistakes so far cost me less than $70...try that with staves! (I can't get my own--large city livin here).

autologus · « **Reply #38 on:** December 21, 2012, 12:35:04 pm »

Quote from: hurlbri1 on December 21, 2012, 12:20:04 pm

I am still a beginner. I have 2 working bows, one I hunt with. Just finishing a 3rd--all with boards, never a stave...yet. I've read exenstively about reading grain on suitable boards for bows, but experience is the true teacher. I thought I had a great piece of White Oak, then, when I pushed her to over 50#, she exploded. I studied the break and finally made the connection about bad grain and grain "running off the edges". The worst part, is that the bad grain was always there and I was naive evough to think other aspects of the board would save it. Nope--when it comes to boards, grain is king.

TBB2, I think, has the board bow section and it's extraodinarily helpful, so I'd study that section. The bent stick advice about boards is helpful as well. And the single best place for advice is right here in this forum.

Good luck!

-Bri

One good thing though--all my 9 mistakes so far cost me less than $70...try that with staves! (I can't get my own--large city livin here).

I did the same thing with a nice rift sawn White Oak board but I believe mine was too dry. It was actually a little crumbly at the break.

Grady

killir duck · « **Reply #39 on:** December 21, 2012, 01:27:37 pm »

it's all in the design boards or staves one is no better than the other at normal draw waights 80# or so and less above 80# the staves will come out on top

lostarrow · « **Reply #40 on:** December 21, 2012, 03:09:48 pm »

The only things I didn't see mentioned was the fact that you can never be sure how wood was treated after felling (or if it was a less than desirable specimen before felling) with a board .So there is always that element of risk. With a stave you cut, you know everything about it. I just broke a board bow (oak) .It was a tried and tested design. slightly overbuilt for durability. But I rushed it and should have taken more off the back(my lumber is bought rough) Faint trace of stickerstain where the crack developed. On the other hand, a board bow will be easier for a newcomer to judge the tiller on,as it starts out perfectly straight and is easy to see any problems with tiller. It is also easier to layout on a board. Both will work just fine. Not too long ago (just before the fibreglass revolution), most of the bows made commercially in North America were made by small companies using lemon wood(Degame) That was the thing to do at the time.

Primitive Archer