"slewing" arrows

[Knocker]

Let me preface this by saying I am a newbie.  I made my first Osage bow a couple of months ago.  It is 55lb at 28".  I had some custom cedar arrows made, and have been pleased with how the setup is shooting.  I think Joe said the new arrows splined at 60lb?  I noticed today that a lot of the arrows end up where I want them, but slew around, back and forth before hitting the target.  Is this drifting around because of spline weight?  Or am I just noticing normal flight now that I am becoming more used to shooting?

Thanks,
Keith

[Knocker]

And also, the knocks seem to be tearing up the serving on my string.  Should I sand the inside of the slot on the plastic knocks before I re-serve the string?  I like the positive feel for staying on, but don't want to wear out my string. 

Don't worry, at some point I will be making primitive arrows with hardwood slots for knocks...   

Keith

[butch]

you got good eyes or slow arrows. mine may slew some but only with good light. a little paradox is normal.  boy, two months on the job and all of a sudden im an expert.

[Hillbilly]

Arrows spined at 60# can be a bit heavy for a 55# selfbow unless they're left long-most people seem to shoot arrows spined 5# or so lower than the draw weight of their bows. Do you shoot straight up or canted? Canting can give you a bit more tolerence of spine range. Adjusting your brace height might also make a noticable difference.

[Justin Snyder]

One more question,  did you cut in an arrow rest? If you cut in a deep arrow rest, and the bow in near center shot, the spine can be a little more forgiving.  Justin

[Knocker]

I was told by a bower to use a 50# spline, and the gentleman that made my arrows suggested stiffer, so that is one of things I was wondering could cause it.  I cant the bow a bit and shoot left handed.  I'll have to research a bit more about brace height.  I heard somewhere that it should be the width of your hand and outstretched thumb?  Any suggestions?

The bow has an arrow shelf glued on the side of the bow, but the string is offset to that side, and does not lay in the center of the bow, but closer to the arrow shelf.

Thanks for the responses!
Keith



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[Pat B]

I prefer arrows about 10# under draw weight for self bows. An arrow bends more around a standard self bow than for a near center shot bow so the spine weight has to be lighter for a self bow. The spine weight is measured for a 28" arrow.  For each inch over 28" that your arrow is you can subtract 5# of spine weight(and vise versa). So, if you buy a set of cedars that are spined for 50# but uncut, you can cut them to 30" and the spine will be 40#.
I prefer longer arrows. I shoot 29" to 30" arrows for my 26" draw.    Pat

[stiknstring]

Please quit calling it SPLINE....a spline is a piece inserted into the end to reinforce a self nock (also a type of gear tooth) but its SPINE. Good advice from the others.  My fifty five pound hickory self bow LOVES shafts of 45 pound spine.  My other boo backed bow shoots fifty really well even though it only pulls fifty (then again it has a cut in rest)

[mullet]

  Keith,I've seen arrows with tight self nocks hang on to the string too long.It made for some wobbly shots.All it takes is some mild heat and bend the nocks out a little.