Ash bow 3 ( the saga continues )

[sleek]

Ok, I am prepping another ash stave for another bow. The goal here is 40@27. I have 3 staves to choose from. All are 66 inches long. One is 2 inches wide, the second is 1 7/8, and the third is 1 1/2 inches wide. I want to save the two widest for heavier bows.

My question is, can a stave of ash ( with slight propeller twist ) that is 66 x 1.5 make a 40 lb draw at 27 inches safely, and with minimal set? My idea for a design is arc of circle tiller with as much working wood as close to the tips as possible to reduce stresses inner and mid limb. I figure that would be he best way to ensure the bow survives.

If that is a good idea, what should my front profile be? Parallel limbs, pyramid, something else?  I dont want to make it any thinner so I am leaning away from pyramid. I am considering a combination, parallel limbs to mid limb the go pyramid from there. Any ideas, comments, suggestions, snide remarks?

FYI, as the stves dry out, I will pick these threads back up and finish them. I just need some early on advice on stave selection on this one so I can rough it out to basic bow shape and toss in the truck with the others.

[Slackbunny]

The Bowyer's Bible recomends a width of 1-3/4 in for a 50lb @28in 66in long ash bow. So I'm guessing that 40lb won't be a problem for you at 1.5in, especially since you are going for a 27in draw instead of 28.

I'd leave the limbs parallel for a ways up the limb before tapering.

[Dictionary]

As Slackbunny said

40@27 is not very difficult with a 66 in long stave of ash especially with a full compass tiller.

I'm not very experienced but from my designs-

I like 65-72 in long.I make most of my bows from saplings because they're easier for me. Flat belly,  rectangular cross section, bends throughout its length. 1 1/4 inch wide handle, you can keep it at 1 1/2 but for only 40# i doubt its necessary. Last 10 inches or so begin to taper down to 1/2 inch wide nocks. Last 6 inches of tips do not bend so are kept thicker(say 1/2 in thick or so). That is how i've always built them. I know from building short bows, that working tips can cause string angle to be more severe which results in stack and string pinch. If you have the traditional bowyers bible vol 1, refer to p.92 "Building the perfect bow". Very simple design, although i ignore the "logs over 6" in diamater" because i don't find back crown to be a problem for a bend in the handle style bow over 60 inches long. I like to use side nocks as well, it often helps with string alignment for twists, but not always.
 
this is just from my own experience of course which is very minimal.

[Buckeye Guy]

Personally I wood like to see you save the narrower one for a ELB , but since you are wanting practice for the others just build what you are seeing in your mind ! just keep the weight down to 40 , and go for it !! when its done and you move on send it to some one else cause many a person would be tickled to have it!!
Guy