Author Topic: need some advice on backing (Read 3663 times)

seabass · « **on:** June 08, 2011, 01:36:15 am »

hey guys.i started my first real bow at this years classic.kerryb gave me a piece of osage and showed me the ropes.i now have the bow pretty much tillered and pulling 30# @20".it is osage 60"long and 1 1/4" at the fades.i found a small drying check on the top limb so i am going to back it.i built a form and recurved the bow which went very well.i have some hide glue but i am not sure which backing would be the best for this bow.i have a 55" osage bow that has a deer rawhide backing that i bowfish with.i really love this bow,but i want to try my hand at sinew backing one.i also have a pair of diamond backs to cover the backings.will one of you guys make up my mind for me?please help,i am so undecided.thanks in advance,steve

Pappy · « **Reply #1 on:** June 08, 2011, 08:27:31 am »

Well rawhide is much simpler and quicker,sinew is a lot more work and takes much longer to cure.
I like both ,so i guess I ant much help.

If you aren't in a hurry to get it finished,sinew it,if you want to have it done in a few days go with rawhide.

Pappy

crooketarrow · « **Reply #2 on:** June 08, 2011, 12:32:55 pm »

If it's not that bad I'd just ad saw dust and super glue. Osage is a strong wood and most likely it won't get any bigger.

seabass · « **Reply #3 on:** June 08, 2011, 07:50:00 pm »

thanks for the help guys.i think i am going to sinew back it then cover it with the skins.the only things that i have sinewed are my arrows.i need to practice doing a bow.thanks again,steve

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #4 on:** June 09, 2011, 12:26:20 am »

On the other hand, as long as the check isn't running off the edge of the limb who cares? If you followed the grain of the wood fairly well there should be no problem other than cosmetic.

In my opinion, sinewing is kinda over-rated (coming from someone that has sinewed everything short of a ham sandwich) as a fixer.

mikekeswick · « **Reply #5 on:** June 09, 2011, 05:01:33 am »

There should be no need to back it. As said if the check doesn't run-off then it will be no problem. For peace of mind just run some superglue into the crack and flex the limb at the same time. You should see tiny air bubbles coming out when you flex the limb.
Sinew backing is something that needs to be done properly to get the most out of the it. The bow needs to be short, reflexed (as much as posss) and preferably the bow needs to be drawn further than if a self bow. Also crown the sinew rather than having it flat on the back. All these things are to strain it properly. If you just slap on a load of sinew to a straight stave and then treat it like a self bow it certainly won't be any faster than if you had made it to the same specs unbacked. Sinew/glue is heavier per volume than wood so you HAVE to make it work - the harder you make it work the faster your bow will be.

Lee Slikkers · « **Reply #6 on:** June 09, 2011, 10:34:05 am »

When backing, sinew, rawhide or bark would I assume you would tiller the bow 1st then apply the backing or would you get the bow to profile and floor tiller and then back?

Pappy · « **Reply #7 on:** June 09, 2011, 10:39:27 am »

I usually get at least to floor tiller and a little beyond if I feel safe to do so, I guess what I am saying
is I don't just back one for the heck of it,I do it because I think it may have a problem ,so I want to do it before I bend it to much. With the exception of sinew,I do sinew because I want to not because I think it needs the protection.

Pappy

Lee Slikkers · « **Reply #8 on:** June 09, 2011, 10:51:22 am »

Thanks Pappy, I guess my wants for a backing were more of a cosmetic one...rawhide and/or cherry bark so I can easily get past the floor tillering and probably even to low brace but I wasn't sure if it wasn't better to back the wood before letting it take "extra" compression that it may not get once backed.

Pappy · « **Reply #9 on:** June 09, 2011, 11:19:10 am »

The rawhide won't add any weight or compression,not sure on the cherry bark,I think I read somewhere on it it does add a little weight, no experience with bark but a lot with rawhide.

If there is no problems with the stave I would do it after tillering.Same as I do snake skins,no need wasting time till I know it's a shooter.

Pappy

Lee Slikkers · « **Reply #10 on:** June 09, 2011, 12:20:04 pm »

Good points Pappy, lord knows I've busted enough lately to listen to good advice when I hear it

Thanks for the help and taking time for such a basic question.

seabass · « **Reply #11 on:** June 10, 2011, 12:51:40 am »

i do have the bow floor tillered.the check does run off one side of the limb.that is why i want to go ahead and back it.this is my first real bow and istarted it at my first trip to the classic.this is the reason that i want to do all i can to finish it.actually it is also the first bow that i successfully recurved with heat.i really want to see this bow to completion.even if it don't turn out so great,i believe it will be a great learning experience.thanks for all the advice guys,steve

Pappy · « **Reply #12 on:** June 10, 2011, 10:23:43 am »

I understand,go for it and keep us updated.

Pappy

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #13 on:** June 10, 2011, 11:00:51 pm »

If it is running off the side, you can always wrap the limb in that area with sinew, too. I like the look of sinew wraps on limbs, especially if you add walnut dye to the water used to soften the sinew so that the wrap comes out black. When the osage darkens and catches up to the sinew it really looks pretty.

Good luck whatever route you take.

john

Lee Slikkers · « **Reply #14 on:** June 10, 2011, 11:08:40 pm »

Great tip John, may have to try that on a repair for one of my boys bows...thanks!

Primitive Archer