Beginner Recommended Dimensions

[DiGi]

Can anyone recommend some dimensions for a first time bowyer. I'm using ash, and might need to make billets but I'm not sure because I don't have it in front of me. Any feedback is deeply appreciated!

[NTD]

Depends on the kind of bow you want to build, your draw length and your desired draw weight.  For a 50lb bow flatbow at 28" I would go 2' wide and 68" long.  You could go 66" but the extra 2 inches in length will allow you to pike the bow down to 66" if you come in a little under weight.

[DiGi]

Well, what draw weight and type would you recommend? 50lbs?

[George Tsoukalas]

Draw length? Jawge

[NTD]

Well, what draw weight and type would you recommend? 50lbs?

LOL that's all about you my friend.  Without knowing your physical capabilities it's impossible to tell you.  As far as what I would reccomend for a first time build I think it's hard to beat a bend through the handle D-Bow.  They are pretty easy to tiller and will set you up for success IMO.  Here is a link that provides you with the basics for building one. 

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000043;p=0

[DiGi]

Thanks!

[Eric Garza]

Without knowing more I'd suggest going for 40 pounds at your draw length, maybe 65-68 inches long, 1-1/2 inches wide.

[crooketarrow]

    68"s,2"s wide

[Parnell]

DiGi, if you don't mind my asking, where are you located?
My first succesful bows were D shaped.  For me, I found them easier to tiller.
My two cents is - jump into it but take your time.  I broke many when I first started and still do here and there.  Figure out where you can make a pulley system.  Take a pine 2x4 and make a tillering stick that you can clamp into a vice, step back, and take a picture of your progress.  If you can, use a camera to look at the progress you make.  I don't know why, but it makes it easier to see the ellipse of the bow when on the computer.  If you don't have a digital camera, maybe you can use a cell phone or something.  Microsoft Paint has a way to open up the pictures and draw an ellipse to show your progress.  Many people on here know how to do this, so just ask.

Read about heat treating and see if you can find a heat gun.  They make a big difference in the performance of 'white wood'.  There are other ways to do this instead of a heat gun, but they are easiest.  Make a string jig and order some B-50 Dacron to start.  It's worth it, for sure.

Didn't see your draw length, but go long when starting.  The dimensions given earlier look like good recommendations.  Have fun and post pictures if you can.
You'll get a lot of really good feedback.

[Frode]

If I may ask, what is your previous archery experience?  What draw weight have you shot in the past?  If you're going for a hunting bow, you're minimum draw weight will be spelled out by local laws, but beyond that, if by chance you are new to the bow, there isn't anything wrong with starting fairly low (30-35#) to get your form and learn.  If you need more, well, you know you're going to make another one   ;D.  I know this to be true, because I only need one bow.  Which is why I have seven, and two more on the bench, and I'm the slow one here! 
Frode

[DiGi]

DiGi, if you don't mind my asking, where are you located?
My first succesful bows were D shaped.  For me, I found them easier to tiller.
My two cents is - jump into it but take your time.  I broke many when I first started and still do here and there.  Figure out where you can make a pulley system.  Take a pine 2x4 and make a tillering stick that you can clamp into a vice, step back, and take a picture of your progress.  If you can, use a camera to look at the progress you make.  I don't know why, but it makes it easier to see the ellipse of the bow when on the computer.  If you don't have a digital camera, maybe you can use a cell phone or something.  Microsoft Paint has a way to open up the pictures and draw an ellipse to show your progress.  Many people on here know how to do this, so just ask.

Read about heat treating and see if you can find a heat gun.  They make a big difference in the performance of 'white wood'.  There are other ways to do this instead of a heat gun, but they are easiest.  Make a string jig and order some B-50 Dacron to start.  It's worth it, for sure.

Didn't see your draw length, but go long when starting.  The dimensions given earlier look like good recommendations.  Have fun and post pictures if you can.
You'll get a lot of really good feedback.

I am in a suburb of Chicago. I can't seem to find any clubs or Archery anything near by (Besides Bass pro shop or Cabella's). I have now "jumped in" and did a pretty bad job at making billets. I use my bandsaw a lot on other projects, but I don't have it with me  at the moment so I was using hand tools. I'm continuing with the bow anyway though because I figure I'll still learn something from it. I have a spool of Dacron, the last three volumes of TBB, and the Bent Stick coming in the mail in the next few days. Do you have a good site for plans for a tiller stick? I'm also going to the lumber store in the next few days. I hope to get a bunch of different woods for trying out on bows. Any recommendations? I have a Genisis (non-traditional) bow that's only 20lbs. I'm hoping to go hunting with a friend sometime so I at least need a 30lb. bow. Thanks for everyone's help!

[sailordad]

i recomend 72" tip to tip hickory board bow (select board carefully)
backed with camo fabric(my fav on board bows )
pyramid style
stiff or bendy handle bow,up to you,i prefer stiff
1.75" wide at fades tapering to 1/2" at nocks
shoot for 45 lbs(50# is even possible),you might make it and might come in low for a first bow
but this length of bow and style are easy for a beginner to tiller
plus the length is a forgiving shooter and or you could pike it if it needs  it to gain a few more lbs

georges web site can be one of your best online resources

[Parnell]

I used to live up that way in the NW suburbs.  Still am wondering about your draw length.  If your not sure, just take a tape measure and go to "full draw" like you were holding a bow to get a bit of an idea.  It can vary a little but just wondering if you are an extreme in one way or another, short or long.
There are a lot of great woods to try but I sincerely recommend hickory to start!  Look for a board with pretty straight grain.  You can get away with a lot with hickory but try to find straight.  It was commonly used by most Great Lakes and Southern/Eastern Woodland natives for a reason.  If you heat treat the belly before you start tillering, it can work wonders.  I'm finishing up a simple hickory D bow that I toasted the belly at floor tiller only once.  It kept most of the toasting in the center and to mid limb.  The bow is only 60" but I'm drawing it to 27" and set is very minimal.  It's a fine bow and was made in a short period of time.  But I've been doing this for two years.  If you're drawing 27-28" you can make a good hunting weapon with room to spare at 64+ inches.  The longer you make it the more forgiving it will be and it can be shortened in time (piked).  Cut the board with grain running the length of the bow to perhaps just over 5/8 of an inch of thickness.   My recommendation is to look at the Cherokee style bows in TBB2.  They have the "diamond" nocks.  Make one of hickory, toast the belly-give the wood some time to stabilize and tiller out.  Hickory doesn't like humidity when unfinished so if you've got the heat on up there, I'm sure the wood will dry out quick indoors.  Post pictures, ask questions as you go and don't rush the process.  After a couple of these, I think you'll be surprised at how far you'll have come!

Plese contact me by PM if I can be of help.

Parnell

[DiGi]

Thank you. That was exactly what I was looking for. Big help!

[DiGi]

I used to live up that way in the NW suburbs.  Still am wondering about your draw length.  If your not sure, just take a tape measure and go to "full draw" like you were holding a bow to get a bit of an idea.  It can vary a little but just wondering if you are an extreme in one way or another, short or long.
There are a lot of great woods to try but I sincerely recommend hickory to start!  Look for a board with pretty straight grain.  You can get away with a lot with hickory but try to find straight.  It was commonly used by most Great Lakes and Southern/Eastern Woodland natives for a reason.  If you heat treat the belly before you start tillering, it can work wonders.  I'm finishing up a simple hickory D bow that I toasted the belly at floor tiller only once.  It kept most of the toasting in the center and to mid limb.  The bow is only 60" but I'm drawing it to 27" and set is very minimal.  It's a fine bow and was made in a short period of time.  But I've been doing this for two years.  If you're drawing 27-28" you can make a good hunting weapon with room to spare at 64+ inches.  The longer you make it the more forgiving it will be and it can be shortened in time (piked).  Cut the board with grain running the length of the bow to perhaps just over 5/8 of an inch of thickness.   My recommendation is to look at the Cherokee style bows in TBB2.  They have the "diamond" nocks.  Make one of hickory, toast the belly-give the wood some time to stabilize and tiller out.  Hickory doesn't like humidity when unfinished so if you've got the heat on up there, I'm sure the wood will dry out quick indoors.  Post pictures, ask questions as you go and don't rush the process.  After a couple of these, I think you'll be surprised at how far you'll have come!

I just checked and my draw is 30"

Plese contact me by PM if I can be of help.

Parnell