Requesting Help with First Bow

[CharrDad]

Great idea. I'm looking for some speciality lumber stores now. Hopefully I'll not have to rely on the chain stores. I'm sure a small hardwood specialist would have better boards on hand, plus I'm hoping to get a contrasting wood for the handle.
CharrDad

[George Tsoukalas]

Welcome. For your fist, think about a bend in the handle bow. Look for straight grained  boards. Stuff on my site. Jawge

[tpoof]

I would like to add.... be prepared to be swept away in one of the greatest pastimes there is...
There is something truely magical about taking a piece of wood and watching it come alive from working with your hands..

Enjoy the ride! 

[CharrDad]

Great News!
I have found a local speciality lumber manufacturer. They will plane any board to my specs. I assume I'll stic with 3/4" thick which seems to be what most build alongs suggest. Here's a list of what they have to choose from. DO any of you guys have any suggestions other than the red oak. How about interesting combinations for limb/riser? I'd love to hear what anyone thinks. I'm planning on getting a few boards this weekend, and getting started.
ALDER
ASH
BASSWOOD
BEECH
BIRCH
CHERRY
HARD MAPLE
SOFT MAPLE
HICKORY
JATOBA
MAHOGANY
RED OAK
WHITE OAK
WALNUT

Thanks for the input.

CharrDad

[Lost Arra]

Hickory and hard maple would be my choice. That's what I have used to get my best board bows.

[DanaM]

If you go with hickory remember it has an affinity for moisture and works best very dry.
Red or white oak, hard maple, hickory, or the ash would all be good choices. I know that alder, basswood are not good choices

DanaM

[CharrDad]

alder, basswood are NO GO's!  Got it. Thanks DanaM.

Question, is the hard maple to hard to form with hand tools. I'll be using rasp, sureform, maybe a drawknife or spokeshave.

Thanks CharrDad

[DanaM]

Nope not if yer tools are sharp. If your doing a board bow remember to pay attention to the grain. Its all about the grain.
Hey did I mention to make sure the grain is right

Have fun with it and take yer time, heck do a build along so folks can help ya.

DanaM

[Hillbilly]

If you're wanting to build a bow with a glued-on riser, a 1" or 5/4 board might be better than 3/4. That will give you enough wood to leave the handle section stiff enough that you won't have problems with the riser popping off.

[CharrDad]

So you say it's all about the grain, huh?

Seriously, thanks for all the help. I think I will do a build along.That's a fantastic idea. Hopefully by this time next week I'll have some good straight boards, a clean garage and be be ready to get started.

CharrDad

[1/2primitive]

As for the list, Alder, Basswood and soft maple are not good bow woods (I don't remember hearing anything about mahogany and I don't know what jatoba is, so I don't know what to tell you about those) but the others will make good bows.
And I sgree with Dana, it's all about the grain. Watch the grain. Oh, and there's the grain to watch out for.
And along with Hillbilly, I'd use a it thicker board, I've had some trouble with the riser falling off on a narrow one.
      Sean

[Lost Arra]

>>I'll have some good straight boards, a clean garage and be be ready to get started.<<

I'm not familiar with either of those.

[CharrDad]

Seems like everyone agrees that 1" -1 1/4" board is better if I'm using a riser. Should I just not include a riser? Jawge, I know you suggested a bend through the center design. That has no riser. Correct. I'm not looking to make it too difficult, I just like the way it looks when a contrasting wood is used for the handle. I'm open to either, and am certainly smart enough to listen to you who have the experience.

CharrDad

[tom sawyer]

Check out the thread about D-bows for some reasons why a bendy handle design is a good idea.

[CharrDad]

Tom, Your comments from the D-bows thread:

I like them because you are less likely to get set near the handle, than a stiff-handled bow with fades.  But you can still leave the handle area slightly raised and have a semi-bendy handled design that only works slightly through the handle.  That has better shooting manners when you are talking about higher poundages (over 50lb).

Is this the design Jawge advocates on his board bow instructions?

CharrDad