Arrows: The essentials

[billmac]

So I've changed my mind about purchasing glue on nocks and points.  I'll make trade points out of bandsaw material and self nocks.  What else do I need?  I'm looking for stuff that is easy to obtain and use, and not too worried about primitive-ness right now.  We've finally got bows to shoot and no matching arrows.  So I guess I need recommendations on:

Glue for points.
Thread and glue for thread.  Any old thread?
Easy finishes for the shafts.
Fletching glue (I'll probably start with synthetic vanes)

[DanaM]

Stay away from the plastic vanes. I don't think they will shoot very well. They don't lay down flat when they hit the riser. For
Glue on target metal points I like ferrul-tite make sure to clean the inside with acetone, trade points most likely 2 part epoxy and silk thread to wrap the points and the self nocks, I've used spar varnish for a finish and fletch tite to glue the feathers on.

DanaM

[Justin Snyder]

Hot melt for points. You can use super glue for thread and fletchings. I prefer silk thread, it is stronger.  Or use sinew and hide glue. Spray urethane is a cheap and easy finish.  Plastic vanes are not as durable as feathers. Hit the plastic once while practicing, and you are replacing it.  The feathers can be purchased pre-cut so they are as convenient to use.  I'm doing some horn reinforced nocks right now, Ill post some pictures if you are interested. All this stuff can be purchased at 3-Rivers. Justin

[Justin Snyder]

Dana, it looks like you were posting while I was typing.  I see you agree about the stinking plastic vanes.  Justin

[Hillbilly]

I third the no plastic vanes motion. They don't shoot well from selfbows, they tear up way too easily; plus, Ishi, Saxton Pope, Maurice Thompson, Spotted Tail, and Gall will rise from their graves on moonlit nights and stalk you if you shoot them from a wooden bow
They won't bother you about glue-on field points, though. Trades are good for hunting, but they definitely don't like to come back out of targets easily. Glue-on target points are the way to go for target and 3D shooting, you can get a pencil-sharpener-type taper tool from 3 Rivers for just a few bucks. Blunts made from cartridge cases work great for stump shooting and such-.38 or.357s fit perfectly on 11/32 shafts. Sparay-on or wipe-on polyurathane, or tru-oil works for an easy finish. I like sinew for wrapping feathers and reinforcing self nocks (shrinks as it dries) but silk thread and superglue works fine. For gluing fletching on, I usually use contact cement or superglue if I'm not trying to make replica primitive arrows. there are lots of things that work, everybody has their own favorite means and materials, just experiment and find what works best for you.

[billmac]

How careful are you guys about the weight of your points?

[DanaM]

You mean trade points?

[billmac]

Tradepoints, blunts, bullets.  Do you try to keep them all the same weight so you shoot consistently?  I understand you would want all of one type the same weight but I mean do you try to make your blunts the same weight as the tradepoints you intend to use, etc?

[D. Tiller]

You want them to be as close in weight as possible. Same as the spine on the arrows. This means they will shoot close to the same point of aim. Changing mass or spine will cause arrows to fly all over the place.

[Justin Snyder]

Weigh your shafts. Put the points that are a little lighter on the shafts that are a little heavier.  Justin