Cane arrow flight

[Bowjo]

I got one made tonight that spined 75 on the sides and 60 something top and bottom.It flys great so far.I checked my largest dry shafts and believe I have two more.I will get these made up and see how they all do.I have 60 other rough cut shafts that have been drying in my garage for two months.
I would still like to know what the largest point end diameters you guys have used.I will be using flint and obsidian points on these.I believe I can cheat a little past 1/2" and still be okay.It is kind of important for me to use natural shafts that I have harvested myself.
I cut the trees that I made my bows with,feathers from my turkey,sinew from my deer,and points I knapped.Just trying to keep it primitive,exept my string I used bought material for that.......Joe

[mullet]

 One thing I found out when weighing stone points was how light most of them weighed out to. I think it would also help if you didn't limit yourself to 30" arrows. You can shoot longer shafts 34, 32" and still give yourself more working room.

 I've used point end diameters of 1/2". If you taper and watch the transition sloping back you should have no problem with penetration.

[Bill Skinner]

You also need to make sure you get mature cane at least two years old, it will have thicker walls.  Where the shoots come out of the side, the more the better, most cane puts out two or three per year.  So, when you cut cane, go by how many shoots, six or eight will be strongest.  Cane also dies back every three years, so make sure is not dying back.  Bill

[JackCrafty]

I've had issues with cane not drying out completely.  If your cane is not completely dry, it will be very flexible....resulting in thicker arrows.  Cane can take years to dry out in humid climates.  I've tried scraping off the outer skin and that works pretty good (allowing the cane to dry much faster) but it is very time consuming.  You might experiment with heat tempering, a technique used by Asian arrow makers to dry and stiffen bamboo.