Growth rings & tension on Sapling

[Grits]

Noobie here.  Amazed at the knowledge and skill shown by folks on this forum!  This is my first post.

I want to make what you all might call a "green stick" bow to start.  I don't expect it to be a work of art, more of an experiment in bowyering...I can see that making bows with my own hands is the best teacher.

A number of saplings are available to choose from:  maples, hickories, American hornbeam (carpus caroliniana), dogwood.  Before I cut one, I want to plan it out a bit. 

Most saplings that are 2" or so at chest height are sort of oval-shaped in cross-section, and the rings are almost always tighter on one side than another.  Since in general, I understand that wider rings are preferable, I'm not sure what to do.

If I am making a "green-stick" sapling self-bow, should I try to make the back of the bow the one with the wider-spaced growth rings since it will be under tension? This would make the belly side the one with the tighter rings (under compression).  Is this correct thinking?

What if the natural curve of the bow wants to go in the other direction?  Or east to west, metaphorically speaking?  And, can you exploit the natural curve to essentially gain a reflex action?

Many thanks for your answers....in advance.

[Del the cat]

Easy... split your sapling, make two bows, you will then have enough experience to proclaim your own opinion!
My view is you won't be able to tell the difference, I generally split staves and work the bad half first while the good half seasons. Some of my favorite bows have been 'bad half' bows.
For me the 'bad' half is more about knots and shape, I havn't worried too much about grain on whitewood bows.
Oh, and for everyone who tells you wide rings are good, someone else will say tight rings are best.
I always say, listen to all the advice and use what works, or sounds right to you...
Good luck.
Del

[Hillbilly]

Welcome aboard, Grits. I would cut one of those hickory saplings and get the bark off. If it's 2" diameter, I would probably carve one side off instead of splitting it. Make sure that the grain runs straight and doesn't twist around the sapling, and try to avoid big knots or twigs. I would probably use the side with thicker rings, but it would depend on where the knots are, too. I would get the cleanest side regardless of rings. Most saplings when split will dry into some reflex, which is a good thing. Rough it out to near-bow dimensions, and bring it inside to dry for a few weeks while working it down gradually. Don't try to bend it much untill it's dry, or it will be an "easy-string" bow.

[George Tsoukalas]

Warning! With winter cut wood the bark gets cemented to the back. Waiting a month or 2 means the bark will strip right off. All of those woods will work. Cut one of each. Cut some about 2 inches. Be selective. Choose some that are straight. Imagine the bow is string  and visualize where the string will fall on the handle. Seal the ends with glue or poly. Forget about splitting. The wood is too narrow. Choose the best side for the back. Large knots are probably better on the back. Take a magic marker and mark 2 lines to delineate back from from belly. Take a hatchet and hack out the belly wood. Sight down the stave and make sure you are doing this evenly.  While you are at it you can actually begin to floor tiller and get the limbs moving a couple of inches. More about tillering on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Grits]

Many thanks, Del, Hillbilly & George!  All great ideas!  I learned something from each of your replies, and will implement each of them over time.

I'm going to start with a hickory sapling, I think, but i might wait until spring so the bark peels off easily.  If I don't wait, I'll let you know!  But I gotta say, I'm ready to get going and start learning with my own hands and eyes!

[George Tsoukalas]

Meanwhile. There's board bows. Check my site. Jawge