Author Topic: white wood question?  (Read 5142 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline nclonghunter

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,779
white wood question?
« on: February 17, 2010, 10:06:19 am »
If you make a bow from a small tree or sapling, perhaps 1 1/2 or 2 inches around, would it be better to de-crown the back or remove the belly leaving the crown on the back?
There are no bad knappers, only bad flakes

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,637
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2010, 10:09:24 am »
I would leave the back as is and be sure the belly is flat. Check out Jawge's site. He has info on sapling bows on there.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline luke the drifter

  • Member
  • Posts: 171
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2010, 11:34:05 am »
i should probably know this.  what means the term--"CROWN".  any pictures to illustrate?

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,637
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2010, 12:09:03 pm »
Luke, the crown is the high point along the back.
  The glossary in the back of TBBIV says... "The low or high arch on the back or belly of a bow".
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Del the cat

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,322
    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2010, 12:19:06 pm »
Make the belly flat, probably pretty much across the diameter of the sapling for maximum width, but with a bit extra removed to work past the pith.
Then remove as much crown as you need to get to floor tiller weight, the tiller the belly as usual.
Hope this makes sense.
The principal as I see it is to maintain maximum width.
Del
Health warning, these posts may contain traces of nut.

Offline nclonghunter

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,779
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2010, 12:42:00 pm »
Del the Cat, what you said makes sense and I was thinking the same thing only backwards....remove the back just past center pith and then tiller from belly...I will just have to try both ways and see what happens.
I am thinking the compression issues on belly would make flattening the belly first, the best option, but I suspect flattening the back first will spread the compression out when you begin to tiller the belly....I would also think reducing the belly first would give me more handle in the belly...I just like a flat backed bow, if possible. This will be a good project for 2010. 
Any pictures of sapling bows would be great..
There are no bad knappers, only bad flakes

Offline Gordon

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,299
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2010, 01:04:31 pm »
I don't remove the crown when I make a sapling bow. Most of the woods I use are stronger in tension than compression so decrowning is unnecessary.
Gordon

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,637
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2010, 01:34:50 pm »
Decrowning is not necessary and leads to potential back splinters. A flat belly is more important I believe. The less you do to the back the better.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Hillbilly

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,248
  • I like tater tots.
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2010, 01:35:41 pm »
And make it a little longer than usual.
Smoky Mountains, NC

NeolithicHillbilly@gmail.com

Progress might have been all right once but it's gone on for far too long.

Offline Del the cat

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,322
    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2010, 02:58:44 pm »
This bow was made from a very steeply crowned log, if I had not de-crowned it, it would have ended up much narrower, or an undrawable weight, or it would have taken more set.
The original game plan was to have it as a bark-on bow.

De crowning doesn't do much harm as the lines of 'ring violation' run pretty much up the length of the bow along either side of the limb parallel to the edge, they don't cut across the limb. (Except where there is some twist in the limb, as you can see in the pic)
This was the 'bad half' of a split log, which was a sort of rounded triangle in cross section, so the 'good' half had a very flat back and this bow had a very pointy back, which I just had to decrown to make it work.
The bottom line is you just have to listen to the wood, and ya cannae use wha' ya havnae got!

It turned out to be one of my favourite bows.

BTW, that bark up the edges is still on there , and looks really good.
Del
« Last Edit: February 17, 2010, 03:04:23 pm by Del the cat »
Health warning, these posts may contain traces of nut.

Offline zenmonkeyman

  • Member
  • Posts: 482
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2010, 08:29:58 pm »
Del, did you worry about making sure you had parallel lines in the rings you cut through?  Or did you go for even thickness instead?  Not too many proponents of decrowning around here, even though it's recommended in TBB1, so it's good to hear the voice of experience.  Ever lost any bows because of decrowning?
If the ppl ever allow private banks to control their currency, 1st by inflation, then by deflation, the banks & corporations that will grow up around (these banks) will deprive the ppl of all property until their children wake up homeless on the continent their fathers conquered. Thomas Jefferson

Offline El Destructo

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,078
  • Longhaired Crippled Hippie Biker And Proud Of It!!
    • Desert Sportz Primitive Archery
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2010, 09:52:44 pm »
If I don't use a Quarter Sawn Board.... I decrown all my Staves for my Paddle Bows...unless they come from very Large trees...because I want the Backs as flat as Possible...and I have very seldom had a Problem with Splinters lifting...but I have on two...and them ...I just Sinewed....
As a species we're fundamentally insane. Put more than two of us in a room, we pick sides and start dreaming up ways to kill one another.Why do you think we invented politics and religion.
Think HEALTHCARE Is Expensive Now,Wait Till It's FREE
Do Or Do Not,There Is No TRY
2024...We Will Overcome

Offline Simple Hunter

  • Member
  • Posts: 85
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2010, 10:12:17 pm »
Here is one I just posted a while ago.it depends on the wood I know hickory is best with a crown on the back and a flat belly.
The thickness of the handle was the thickness of the tree.Hickory is so strong in tension that it can overpower the belly and cause excessive set.But heat treating can help that some.

[attachment deleted by admin]
« Last Edit: February 17, 2010, 10:16:46 pm by Simple Hunter »

Offline nclonghunter

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,779
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #13 on: February 18, 2010, 12:00:15 am »
Great info coming out here...Simple Hunter, I am wondering what the approximate thickness (across the  base end) of that hickory bow was, to begin with. It looks great!
There are no bad knappers, only bad flakes

Offline George Tsoukalas

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,425
    • Traditional and Primitive Archers
Re: white wood question?
« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2010, 09:54:13 am »
Decrowning is ok but not easy to do right. An easier solution is to leave the stave an inch or 2 longer than you normally do. LOL. At least that's what I do. I also leave the belly flat. Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!