Author Topic: Titebond for reflex-deflex glue-up?  (Read 2048 times)

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Offline d frana

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Titebond for reflex-deflex glue-up?
« on: November 18, 2009, 01:58:10 am »
Will Titebond glue work OK for a maple and hickory reflex-deflex glue up?  Do I really need to score both surfaces to be glued?

Offline Justin Snyder

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Re: Titebond for reflex-deflex glue-up?
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2009, 09:09:47 am »
It will work fine. Some people score some people say scoring weakens. I like to sand with 120 grit sandpaper.
Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you made a bad decision.


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Offline Tom Leemans

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Re: Titebond for reflex-deflex glue-up?
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2009, 09:46:22 am »
Scoring increases the amount of glue surface. Great for gap filling glues like Urac. Titebond type of glues likes tight (read that, well fitting) joints. If you're going to use Titebond, I'd just sand it like Justin said. Titebond recommends there be no saw marks in the joint and that the surface not be burnished in any way. I also learned something new. They don't want you to use any metal tools to apply the glue, as it will adversely affect the strength of the glue.

Offline Canoe

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Re: Titebond for reflex-deflex glue-up?
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2009, 10:46:01 am »
Howdy Group,

When I'm gluing my built up handles for board bows, I use TB2 or TB3.
 
I usually rough up the surfaces with 60 grit, and then I'll do a really good job of cleaning that surfaces using acetone to remove dust and, mostly, to remove oils on the surfaces. (Then let it dry completely - about 1/2 hour.)

I make sure to put a thin layer of glue on both surfaces.

When clamping, I don't go real  tight, I just clamp the wood snuggly - so to not cause any dry spots; (where all the glue had been squeezed out).

I learned this method on PA, and it works for me.  But, Justin knows his stuff, so if he says use 120 grit - use 120 grit.

All the Best,
Canoe

"Nature is a mutable cloud which is always and never the same."  - R. W. Emerson

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