Heck if I know- My first with yew.

[Mar]

While I'm waiting to receive Vol 1 of the TBB, I had this skinny stave from splitting a knotty log. This piece had lots of outer rot so ended up chasing a ring and shaping it. It's in it's rough shape now but want to know if I'm wasting my time with this piece. It will be 68" and will be happy if I can make it to 40-45#. The widest part is 1 3/8" below the grip and 1 1/2 above the grip, I wonder if I should narrow it down above the grip? You'll see in the last picture where I mean, there's a knot just above the handle.

Here are some pictures:
Top

Right side

Belly

Left side

Handle

Handle back, rough profile.

How it will be held.

String along the back

String midway


So what is the verdict?

[rattlesnake]

its going too be cool!!!...take your time that looks like a goodone...snake

[Pat B]

I'd say go for it. I'm no yew expert but it looks like plenty enough to get a 45# to 50# bow. As far as the string lining up you won't be able to tell that until the first low brace. I think I would add a simple backing like rawhide, silk or linen just for insurance.

[Keenan]

There is allot of potentail there, Go for it. 

[radius]

have fun.  Pat B is on track:  you'll want a backing, most likely...maybe not...see if it blows!

[Jmilbrandt]

You should definately be able to get 45# out of that. I agree with pat though I would probably back it with silk, It looks like you cut some growth rings on the back but it's hard to tell looking at pictures. Should be a cool looking bow when it's finished.

[Mar]

What you see is unfinished chasing at that end, that end needs to be shorten anyway.

Quick questions...When shaving/rasping the belly, do I need to chase a ring to keep my thickness?
If I do then the bell would have the same profile as the back then, right?

Thanks for replies. So far the best have been since I got started are, "Kill it with the band-saw, don't look back" and "See if it blows" by radius. LOL!

[Jmilbrandt]

I definately would not shorten it anymore you will be able to keep a higher draw weight and draw length if you leave it a 64". And no you don't have to follow a growth ring on the belly you will have to cut through them in the tillering process.

[Mar]

Stave needs to be cut at 68", might be able to get another inch or 2 out of it though.

Yeah that was what I thought about the belly, just wondering how one keeps an even thickness but I'm leaving it a bit fat till I read some more.

I really appreciate the help/ comments.

[Jmilbrandt]

So you want to cut it down to 64"? How long is it now?

[Mar]

Sorry, my mind is set on 64 right now, probably because I made a 64" string today. The bow will be 68". I going back to edit my posts.

[Jmilbrandt]

Ok in my opinion 68" may be a little too long for 45# or 50# I would probably go 66". Your 64" String would be almost the right size then too. I think your good to go on it otherwise. Should look pretty nice when it's all finished!

[Mar]

String was made for my recurve. Why exactly would 68" be too long? I don't understand that part, my draw length is 29-30", might be less now that I'm older.

[radius]

glad i could make ya laugh at least.

make a string about 70 inches long for the initial tillering phase.  when you finally decide on length, file nocks.  inform that sucker that it is going to learn to bend or else you will break it!  that's how i do it..."look you, you're gonna bend if it's the last thing i do, or i'll break you into pieces" .

After you can pull it to draw weight while moving the tips 10 inches or so from initial long- stringing, shorten the string.  As lots of guys can attest to, the long string hides tillering errors. 

it looks pretty wide.  so far i find yew works best with a narrow profile and deep limbs:  takes less set.  However, Keenan would say otherwise and i guess he's right, he's got more experience with yew and similar woods than i do.

[Jmilbrandt]

I didn't realize you had such a long draw I was just thinking in terms of a 28" draw. There is nothing wrong with 68" inches it's just that yew could very easily handle being shorter, but if your drawing it 30" you will probably want to leave it 68" to reduce set and help with stack.