primitive cresting

[Tsalagi]

When I first started making arrows, I wanted to get a cresting machine and do some cresting. Well, it never happened because I figured the price of a cresting machine would buy more arrowmaking supplies. I'd do cresting by hand and was always trying to do the fancy-pants cresting and it was decidely bad. So, I'd just do a couple lines with a black Sharpie marker to mark my arrows. (But in this area, I'm probably the only guy who shoots wood shafts so I don't really NEED to mark them, ok, ok, but still...)

  So, I looked through some Steve Allely prints in Native American Bows Quivers and Arrows (man, we have this book at our library and I can use it for free!) and it struck me. Hey! My ancestors didn't have cresting machines!!!! I'm going about this all wrong! Don't make up a 1950s style field archery club crest. Use something a lot older! So, I got an idea and used red iron oxide based paint for my red and black iron oxide based paint for my black. Just did some simple crest by hand that I'll use for my own self. And they came out pretty good...but primitive. I marked the shafts with a stencil to where I wanted the marks. And they're uniform to about 1/8 of an inch, LOL! And not all straight. But, dang, they look like arrows from the ancient past! The paint isn't glossy; they're Earth-tones, after all. I'm happy. Wish I had a digital camera to post pics.

   So, now I've been able to let go of that weird craving for a cresting machine at last. I use a little handsaw to cut my shafts to length and a hand taper tool to taper them. Not a single electric appliance was used. Sometimes simpler really is better.

[ricktrojanowski]

I hear you.  I have not used my cresting machine in some time.  I should put it on the trade blanket.   I'm using prim. pigments with acrylic base by hand.  Not as perfect, but I think they actually look nicer.   

[Justin Snyder]

I have gone almost completely to cresting with fire. I just spin the shaft over a burning stick. A smaller fire will make a narrow line, a bigger makes it wider. You have to be careful to discolor without burning the shaft.

[Pat B]

Like Justin I usually flame my shafts too; both cane and hardwood shoots. I do it to temper the shaft too.
  These are part of a set I made and donated to the Tenn. Classic. The cresting is red ocher and a blue mineral pigment carried in pitch varnish.

[ricktrojanowski]

Pat those are really beutiful.  Where did you get the pigments?  I like that blue.

[zeNBowyer]

 The posts on Ishi shows he did some simple cresting as you can see by arrows

[Pat B]

Rick, I got it from a friend but I believe it came from Crazy Crow. The blue almost looks unnatural because it's color so brilliant in powder form. Once it goes down it is muted enough to look fine.

[ricktrojanowski]

Thanks for the info Pat, I'll have to check out the Crazy Crow. I'm getting bored with black, and yellow.

[Tsalagi]

I couldn't find that pigment on the Crazy Crow website.

[Woodwright]

Found the following online supplier of natural pigments. They will send you a free color chart and brochure.

http://www.earthpigments.com/products/index.cfm?subCat_ID=2

[George Tsoukalas]

I made one which is powered by a variable speed drill but I  never use it. I make my shafts and they are irregular so it won't work on them. I crest by hand now exclusively. I  use Walmart acrylic hobby paints. Jawge

[Tsalagi]

Thanks, Woodwright! Been looking for a source like that!

[Pat B]

In a 2000 Crazy Crow catalog it is listed as "powder paint".  ...natural earth paints..black, white, red, yellow, green and royal blue.  Item #6506-001   

[Tsalagi]

Thanks, Pat!!