Oak board layout?

[Ahnlaashock]

Board is 1 3/4 inches by 7/8ths by 80 inches.   Not a lot of wood. 
I drew a 4 inch handle in with the top set at 1 inch above center.  I put in three inch fades.  The limbs are 21 on the bottom and 22 on the top full width.  Then both taper for right at 13 1/2 inches to 5/8ths tips. 
Is this optimum or should the full width portion of the limbs be shorter or longer?  Grain is pretty good and I am going to experiment with backing this one just to learn how for real. 
Thanks in advance for any help offered!

[George Tsoukalas]

That's not thick enough for a narrow handled bow. I say that because you said you drew fades. You'd have to glue on a handle/ I generally make bend in the handle board bows. For 50-55# I go 1.5 wide and 1.25 wide for 45-50#. There's more on my site including a buildalong. jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Ahnlaashock]

George, thanks for the response!
I did not mean fades as in a narrow handle spreading to full width in three inches.  Likely me using the term wrong. 
By "fades", I meant the area where the limbs begin to be more rounded on the belly tapering down to early limb thickness and fully rounded.   
I am leaving the handle area pretty much square and plan to use leather to build up a palm/grip area.   A bow that bends through the handle is just fine with me. 
I cleaned up the sides tonight and began shaping.   I am thinking hickory back, four sinew wraps, leather handle, bend through the handle longbow.  30 to 45 pounds for a yard stump bow is just fine.  Looking to learn more than actually create a masterpiece.

Turns out i have a 35 foot slippery elm right off the edge of my back yard on my lot, and I spoke with a sawmill owner yesterday about purchasing a straight 8 to 10 foot hickory log in the 10 to 12 inch range.  He doesn't cut it because he says it kills his blades.  They chainsaw it and split it for firewood.   Since I have not been able to buy hickory locally, I am going to attempt to split staves from the straightest one he has. 

[elk country rp]

i'm not about to argue with George, but i've hit 55# with a few bows using these dimensions. i just measured one of my 55# board bows. it's 1 5/8" x 5/8 at the widest part of the limb just out of the fades. the extra 1/4" that you have should work nicely as a ramp to keep a handle from popping off if you go with a flatbow design & keep it full thickness through the handle. whatever you, i wanna see tha pics! i never get tired of seeing a bow bend!

good luck,
Rob

[Ahnlaashock]

Full thickness through the handle and pretty straight sided out to 14 inches from the tips.   I suspect that the taper will increase a little as I rasp in the shape.  May buy a wheel for the angle grinder tomorrow for the roughing out work on this red oak! 
This board has rings running straight across the width, but those rings came up at one end pretty quickly and then again at the other on the same side.  If you chased a ring, the stave would look like it was a rocker almost as long as it now is.  The one ring would run from about six inches from one end all the way to about six inches from the other.  With fairly stiff tips, the load should be pretty evenly spread from one end to the other.  The handle area is in the center of the natural curve to the grain.  Scraping reveals a beautiful chevron pattern in the belly of the limbs a little closer than if the grain was completely straight. 
Here is a picture.  Not sure if words are making sense!  Both ends do the same thing.  If i shortened it six inches or so on each end, the back ring at the handle would come out each end close to the belly side.



The flash makes it look really rough, but that is much exaggerrated! 
That is the beginnings anyway!

[elk country rp]

sounds like one heck of a board!!

[George Tsoukalas]

LOL, Rob, but I agree I've made 55# bows 1.5 in wide too and 3/4 in thick at the handle. I was just throwing in a caution about not narrowing a 3/4 in thick handle that's 1.5 in wide. You can argue with me anytime. Here's another caution. Anything over 1.5 in wide is tough too tune to an arrow. Jawge

[Ahnlaashock]

Spine problems if I leave the handle full width maybe??  It I narrow it at the riser/handgrip to get better arrow flight/ less paradox, then I would almost have to build up the handle.   Hummmmmmm........
Time to do some more thinking!
My first attempt showed a marked tendency to shoot two feet left of where you were looking, but it had very little draw poundage and I was using an old aluminum arrow splined for a 70 pound cam bow.   I did not pay that much attention because I figured the arrow was all wrong for that light a bow.   My old stickbow was pretty spine sensitive come to think of it.  It had a pretty thick handle and a straight taper type construction.  Target tips sighted at 20 yards pretty consistant.  Change to 140 grain broadheads and the arrow would hit the ground before it got to the target unless you went to a stiffer arrow. 
What is the handle width on the average long bow?  I may need to rethink this whole thing! 

[Ahnlaashock]

Well, it seems that I can think all I want, but I had better ask the wood too!
A chip was revealed in the rough side that required narrowing the limb more than intended, but here is so far. 



The other end is off just enough that the chevrons will not show.   This is the lower limb with the belly rounded a little. 

[George Tsoukalas]

I was hesitant to suggest this as it can be difficult and it's easier just to make the handle area the widest part of the bow but you can narrow your handle area to 1.5 in. Should be ok. But be careful. Jawge

[Ahnlaashock]

Too rainy to go out and play!  The stave is ready to start the tillering process.  It is pretty flexible for as thick as it still is.   
I am going to back it before I start trying to bend it much.  I bought Titebond Liquid Hide Wood Glue.   Season is not a dry time around here!  They did not have Titebond III, but said they could get it in about a week. 
Not sure whether to go ahead and experiment with the Hide Glue on this one and then try III on the next one, or to get the III in and use it on this first real attempt at a board bow with a decent draw weight and length. 
Hadn't considered it because I thought you guys were using Titebond Hide glue and Titebond III interchangeably.  Thought it was the same stuff.   Should have known better, but it flew right over my head! 
Anyway, have a nice evening!  1 Year old grandson is here.  My wife would frown on me dragging my sharp toys out right now in the house, and I am not badly enough addicted to go stand in the rain and file in string grooves!