Snap, Crackle... POP!

[Bear]

This is agonizing. My first bow that I really felt confident on, took my time, and made something I was proud of. Shaped the handle today and put the first arrow in the bullseye. I was VERY happy with this bow. I cheated the entire handle off center to get it out of the way of the string/arrow, but I also cut in a shelf and window. Having cheated the entire handle layout over I thought there would be plenty of wood on the off-side to compensate. Apparently not. It started with a tick, then a crackle, then... pop. A nice crack running from the shelf up into the fade. It closed when I unstrung it. I strung it back up in order to open the wound, and filled it with thin super glue, then drew it a few inches to hopefully let the glue get all the way in there. Unstrung it, and here I sit.

Is it toast? Could the weight be reduced and get more life out of it assuming the glue pentrated?

It was 63 @ 28, and that could be part of the problem. It was going to be my big elk hunt bow this September. I just really thought there was plenty of wood there. Maybe I could take it down to low fifties, or less.

I know, it's toast, right? Or best case senerio, maybe it lives another year as a fifty pounder, then blows.

My gut hurts. I'm going to bed. Is there a graemlin with a person weeping uncontrollably.. wait... there it is       Only it needs one fist pounding the workbench whlie the other beats himself over the head. Is there a support group?

[M-P]

Bear,  The support group starts here.   Dang!   I think we've all been there.   Pictures might help folks answer your other questions.   Although I might use a tillering tree after repair, (so it doesn't blow up in your face when the repair fails) I definitely would try a repair.   I think it was Justin that said "you need to fix till they're broke."  So post a couple of close ups of the handle area nad see what folks think.  Ron

[sonny]

a sinew patch over that area will likely hold it together considering you've already glued it.
lay down sinew running parallel with the limbs then wrap around the limb as well, let it dry thoroughly and you should be good to go.
 

[sulphur]

its tough putting an arrow shelf on a selfbow, if thats what this is.  I do it on board bows all the time.  there is just not enough wood on a selfbow imho.  to make it work that can be no bending near the shelf.  the sinew patch is probably all that will save your bow.

[Bear]

The crack is in the dead center of the sight window, running from the shelf up into the fade. Can't imagine how sinew would work there.

I'll post some pics later.

[Bear]

Might not be firewood yet!

Took it down to 55 and it no lnoger pops. Realized I wasnt using thin glue before. Pulled it to full draw and flooded the crack with super thin super glue. unstrug it and clamped it. Worked it about 60 times on the tree so far, and it is still among the living.

Please, oh please....

[George Tsoukalas]

Handles are tricky. I don't do cut in shelves. Pieces of leather will work when glued in the right places. My handles are usually 1.25 in at the arrow pass and have a height of 1.5 in.  for rigid handle bows. Jawge

[Pappy]

Sorry about that Bear,I am very careful on the handles,seems everyone wants them center shot now for some reason  but I tel folks before you cut it in you have to be absolutely sure they aren't going to bend there at full draw or they will break where you violated the Longitudinal grain every time.I have glued them like you did and rap right at the fad  some held,some didn't,so
now I don't do that.
   Pappy
 

[GregB]

Sounds like you may have got it fixed Alex, hope so. I've cut shelfs in quite a few, and never had a problem. You just have to make sure you have plenty of wood there.

If you'll post some pic's it would be helpful in figuring out the cause...

[Bear]

Well, I finished it out. Upon further consideration I dont know that I cut it too far after all. I compared it to other selfbows I have and this one is actually thicker at the pass than some others I have. Like I said, I cheated the entire handle layout over, so there was plenty of wood on the off-side. I only violated conventional handle layout by about 1/16, if that. One thing that might have caused it was leaving the angle where the shelf meets the window to sharp. I know right angles give birth to cracks. I tried to radius it with a nock file, but maybe there was still just a little kerf in there.

I went ahead and finished it out. Did my first overlays ever and am very happy with them. I am thrilled with this bow, no matter what happens. I have never learned so much or gained so much confidence before. If that's all I get from this one, I got plenty. I was on such a roll, and enjoying it more than ever, and really happy with my work for the first time, I just had to finish it. Process over product.

I flexed it about 30 times again last night right before bed, and the crack never opened back up. She's right at 55#.

I'll run a bunch of arrows through it this afternoon. Then post some pics.

[Ryano]

Maybe a over lay on the back of the bow handle area extending out past the fades a little would help ? You could use the same material you used for tip over lays so it matches and it would probally look pretty good and help stiffen the handle area and help keep it from bending there.

[Bear]

That's a great idea, Ryan. I might just do that. It is already backed with deer hide, with an overlap in the handle. I'm sure it's helping, but a wood overlay would certainly do more.

Thing is, I'd have to file off the backing, then file down to an even gluing surface, and might do more harm in the process. Also creates the question of how would the backing strips perform if the they terminate at the fades. They might lift.

[Ryano]

Oh, I didn't know it was raw hide backed all ready. Maybe a underlay on the fade if its flat enough then? You could do it on both sides and make it match....?

[Bear]

Just put about 125 arrows through it and all's well. I dont know if that means I'm in clear, or what.

Ryan,

I'm affraid the curves do not lend themselves to over/underlay's. Anything flexible enough to glue in would too thin to make any difference. I guess with all the right tools it could be done, but all I have is hand tools. If I could do multiple laminations of thin overlay on the back, it would really help. Just not equiped for the project.

I think I'll call it good. Put some finish and handle wrap on it... and drive it like I stole it.

Gonna wait till I get 'er all done for pics.

[GregB]

Well I want to know how the bow shot those 125 arrows?