new hill cane arrows

[Pat B]

I needed a new set of arrows for the Classic...so I hope 6 is enough!   Hill cane shafts with self nocks and sinew wraps, five are 2 fletched with one 3 fletch. These were only tied fore and aft but after shooting them I opted to add fletch tape to about 3" of the center of each and it cut out the noise. I also burned these shorter just to see how it would effect the flight and now they fly great!!!
  The points are Kenneth's "nail" heads glued in with TBIII and they work great too. I decided to try them without a wrap just behind and so far they are working fine...but I haven't hit a tree or rock yet either. The sinew wraps are sealed with super glue.   Here they are...simple but effective!


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[artcher1]

Nice arrows Pat! Hey, I notice you orient your shafts 90 degrees off from what I use. Do you notice any difference?

ART B

[Timo]

Nice Pat! Like that nail idea....I guess I missed the how to on that one?

[Pat B]

Art, I don't always pay attention to that. I have numbered each one so I can experiment a little with each one to see what is the most effective.
  Tim, I'll look for pics I have of the points or take another one for you.

[Little John]

Tim, I take a 16 penny nail and braze weld a gob on the head then grind and file to a target point. Works real good on cane and bamboo arrows.   Kenneth

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[Little John]

Pat, super looking arrows, have fun shooting them in Tenn. and try to bring back a few. Ill tell ya Pappy and crew will be Easter egg hunting for weeks.   Kenneth

[Timo]

So that is just a bunch of brass rod on the end?

Chuck it up in the drill press and shape the point?

Hot melt in?

Have you tried different length nails for weight forward experiments?

Sorry so many questions,but when my eyes see something that interests me,my mind won't rest until I have it figured out and down. it is a curse.

Very cool idea! two thumbs.

Sorry for the hyjack pat.

[Little John]

Tim yes I just build up the brass with an oxy acetylene  torch and brazing rod. Try to get it as uniform as possible . I clamp a set of vice grip pliars on the end to get the nail to stand straight up on a work bench during the welding process. Then I chuck up the nail in a hand drill motor to turn it while grinding the point on a grinder. Yes hot melt or epoxy into the  shaft. These 16D nail points come out @ about 125 grains, you can shorten for less weight or could probably use a 20D for more weight. They polish up real nice after a few shots and look gold. Not primitive but very traditional and hand made to boot. Oh by the way some times you might have to drill out the shaft to fit (don't split the shaft by forcing).     Kenneth

[Pat B]

I weighted 2 different sized nails Kenneth gave me. The smaller ones(16d?) weighed about 127 grs and the bigger one weighed about 156grs.

[Hillbilly]

Kenneth's nail points work great, and they're a lot easier to pull out of targets (and trees ) than regular field points.

[cowboy]

Fine lookin bunch of arra's Pat! I bet they'll split some of Pappy's saplings just fine .

[Pappy]

Good looking bunch of arrows Pat,hope that's enough. I got some of them points you gave me last year,I need to remember to find them and give um a try.Very cool.
   Pappy

[D. Tiller]

Say, do those little hand torches get rod hot enough to braze it on the nails? I think I might just try that. But, unfortunatly here we dont have any cane suitable to putting these heads in. Pat, you up for a trade of obsidian or made points for cane?

David T

[Pat B]

Sure, David. I'll bring you a good bunch of hill cane.   I'm always looking for and needing stone points and blades since I don't knap. The little torches should get hot enough to braze.

[D. Tiller]

Thanks Pat! I will ship the points to you in the future when and what you want. Let me know what you like the best. All my stuff these days is being made out of some silver sheen odsidian and some of the other stuff I have on hand. That ok?