Author Topic: Lil Split-along  (Read 16533 times)

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Offline Timo

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Lil Split-along
« on: March 21, 2009, 12:24:14 am »
Old hat for most that visit these boards, but some may get something out of it. I have  lots of people ask me how to split Osage, especially the bigger logs, so I figured since I was splitting some anyhow I might as well take a few pics and show how I tackle the task.

I’d first like to explain a few simple things about splitting Osage. This particular quarter log was one I had the saw mill save for staves. It’s very clear and will be easy to show the basics of splitting. It measures around 10” across the back, so it will yield 4 staves@ 2 ½’wide and 2 belly splits also. I sawed a kerf along its back, but first I use a draw knife to remove the rough outer bark, so I can chalk a clean line in accordance to the center of the quarter. Then I use a skill saw set full depth and saw a kerf along the line. I have 3 small wedges that I sharpen to a knife edge, and use them to start my splits. After they get started it’s just a matter of running bigger wedges along the split. It will part cleanly.





I then lay out marks how I want these staves to be, again 2 ½” wide (below the sapwood line) and about the same in depth. I then take off the belly split first, then split the other down the middle. This wood is straight and clear, so I sawed kerfs for every split. This quarter yielded 6 beautiful staves. Perfect in every way.











More later,I'm tired. :)

Offline ricktrojanowski

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2009, 07:00:08 am »
Thanks for the info.  I've never taken any belly splits before.  You said that you sawed a kerf for all splits.  Does that include the belly split?
Traverse City, MI

Offline Timo

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2009, 09:06:09 am »
Rick,I don't saw kerfs for all splits, mainly for the initial split to half a log, and sometimes to quarter it.Depend on how straight and clean the wood is. If it is straight,then yes I will saw kerfs. I call it controlling the split.

As for belly splits,there is no need to saw kerfs.Just start the split on the ring/size you want the stave.Most times it will folow a single ring,or at least close to it. I love watching belly slpits come out.Usually just a few pops and it falls apart.No need for sledge hammers here,just a 4# hammer works fine.

Saw kerfs won't serve us much help on snakey,crooked,knotted up wood.For that you have to work with what the wood has to offer, and just use the wedges,lilttle increments as ya go.Meaning spacing wedges closer together and not trying to overpower the wood. When knotty wood is present,one has to realize the split is gonna go around the knot.Try to lay your split out so that the knot ends up on the side of a split,(unless you want it in the middle of the stave).Then you can remove it later when  you start your bow.

Most people just want to get it staved out, not takeing time to study the grain.It's some times hard to read, but after the first split,one should recognize how the wood is gonna act, and then work with it,or against it. I suggest with it.

Offline sailordad

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2009, 10:49:14 am »
timo

does this same technique work on other woods also?
i still have a few logs of hhb been waiting splitting(weather ya know doesnt always allow for it here in mn)
i plan on kerfing them to get them split as straight as possible.
should one work wedges down one side only or down both sides of a log when halfing it?
thank for your time,i am sure i will have more q's on this later

                                                           peace,
                                                                 tim
i always wanted a harley,untill it became the "thing to ride"
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Offline Postman

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2009, 11:08:32 am »
Good stuff timo.....I Like the idea of drawknifing a bit before kerfing. Do you have an old  saw you use just for staves?  I think osage is really hard on a circular saw, so I've used a yardsale craftsman so's not to ruin my good one.  I also have used old screwdrivers on my splits, especially snakey ones. I've only done a few trees, though - that haul of yours is truly  awesome!
"Leave the gun....Take the cannoli"

John Poster -  Western VA

Offline Timo

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2009, 12:30:06 pm »
 Came in for a coffee break from woking sapwood off....Arrrgggghhh! :)I have more to add later and some questions will be answered then.

Sailor,I suppose it will on most woods, but not familiar with much else cept osage.That is what I work with most. I don't work enough other stuff to be well imformed about it.Sorry.As for wedging both sides? I only do when it needs it.Most logs under 12" will open up from one side, but nothing wrong with working both sides,just more work. :)

Postman, my vocations is carpentry so I am always going through saws. I use an old work horse makita,with a sharp carbide. Less teeth will rip better, but be mindful of kickbacks and pinching. It is rough on saws,but if you let the saw do the work, It'll last a good while.

 Good idea on the screwdrivers.

Offline Timo

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2009, 05:52:17 pm »
I always strive for logs 6’ or longer. We can always cut them off later, or when a problem arises, such as with this log. A lot easier to cut off than add.

I use marking paint to mark problem areas on the log. If I have it along while cutting, I’ll mark them at that time, while the critical eye is at work. In the field, one sees things that need remembered, and then forgets about them later. Painting trouble areas will keep you from having surprises later. This log has a few, namely a big ole knot towards the small end.



 It is 12” across the small end, and 7 foot in length. I always try to split from top to bottom, if you start a split the size you want it on the small end, it will always be bigger at the other end once it is split. Start it from the flare end, (big end or stump end) and it will shrink, yielding you a narrow ended stave. (This is in most cases). 

In this picture I have draw knifed off the outer bark and chalked a line end to end. The center check is quite visible and it lines up on the opposite end, so the split will follow it. I then went ahead and cut one foot off the end to get past the big knot, this will help with the splits and give me a better reading of growth rings, as wood will bunch up around knots showing tighter than the rest of the wood, sometimes changing your mind as to how you want to split it. By cutting past it, we will get down to where the rings are more normal again. It also will make it easier to split. Probably didn’t have to saw a kerf on this one, but did anyhow.





A few whacks and she is apart.




 I layed out for my splits and sawed a kerf for the first one.  After splitting, I saw that the wood wanted to run off the kerf, telling me that there was some twist. I didn’t kerf anymore on this log and let the splits follow their natural grain. Just start your split on the end grain on or close to your mark, and after it starts to open, finish down the sides with bigger wedges.





They all came out well.



I then turned to the bigger half and layed it out. You can see I have multiple staves layed out here. How to get to them is easier than one thinks. Since I had a bit of trouble with the split following the bark kerf on the sister half, I run a kerf straight down the end grain on this one, as deep as the saw would cut. (Sorry I forgot to take a picture of it) but you get the idea?  Set two wedges (one up high, and one down low), and keep them going in the same, hit one first, then the other until they are set, and the wood starts to open. This will keep the split started straight so it won’t veer off to one side, and ruin a chance at another full belly stave.




I split the log in half, and then into quarters. From there I finished it just like the others, taking bellies off first, then the outsides.
This side had some very nice outer splits but as you can see, as a youngster, it was a busy boy?  There were however a couple very nice clean snakey pieces within. Kind of odd, given all the knots in the sisters.




Most of you have seen this pic already.



 This is the basics.There is alot more that I could have went into about this, but I figure most here will figure it out on their own. If ya have any more questions, please ask. If I can't help,then I am sure there is someone here that can.

« Last Edit: March 21, 2009, 05:58:37 pm by Timo »

Offline david w.

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2009, 06:08:16 pm »
If you belly split osage do you need to chase a ring?
These pretzels are making me thirsty.

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Offline Timo

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2009, 06:38:27 pm »
David, that all depends on how well the split comes off. Some will be cleaner than one can scrape,while others will have lil fingers still attached.Then some will carry over two or three rings.

Whatever the case, there will still be some clean up of some kind. I popped one out today with one set of a wedge at the end.It just fell open on the floor. Clean as they get.Took me about a minute to dress it up for the show. :)

Offline DanaM

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2009, 07:50:28 pm »
Tim thanks for taking the time to this split along, don't think I will ever have the opportunity to split osage but I have
split hard maple of that size. Must be nice not to have snow on the ground ;)
"Prosperity is a way of living and thinking, and not just money or things. Poverty is a way of living and thinking, and not just a lack of money or things."

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Offline Bent Rig

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2009, 05:49:09 pm »
Great information thanks for sharing ! It's always nice to see how others do  what they do through the aid of photography - excellent post !  ;)
Syracuse , NY------------"Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy"
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Offline yazoo

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2009, 10:24:15 pm »
great pics, what state is this osage from, looks like a lot of earlywood,, I believe sawing kerfs,can cause problems with staves,,if you only saw the straightest wood, it is the least likely to need kerfs to guide the split, I think the splits need to run there natural course,
if you can shoot over them , they ain't to far

Offline Timo

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2009, 08:11:11 am »
Yazoo, all this wood is from Mo.Funny thing about the wood here.You can cut one tree, and find bright yellow,with good ratio.Cut another 10' away and it'll have micro rings, and be dark red. makes me scratch my head sometimes. I just take it as it comes. I build lots of bows, in many different ways, so the differences don't bother me. That particular tree did seem to have some thincker early, but the camera makes it look worse than it is,actually they are quite good.

As for sawing kerfs,I stated in my other thread that I know they aren't neccessary on any wood,but I wanted to show others the process of how I do it.Just in case some here wanted to try their hand at it. You know how we all are...Everyone is different? :) Reading the bark of course is the key.

Offline Olschool

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #13 on: March 24, 2009, 09:25:29 am »
Now all I need is some Osage to cut down  ;D
Thanks Timo!

Offline yazoo

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Re: Lil Split-along
« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2009, 09:59:42 am »
I find the same thing in the older trees, I try to keep to trees that are 20years old to 30 year old I see a lot of trees that are perfect at the ground and 2 ft up are trash,I leave those in the woods,I cut a load yesterday I will post some pics
if you can shoot over them , they ain't to far