Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: robbsbass on October 09, 2008, 01:57:40 am
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Its finished. I have tried to send pics, but iit keeps saying error file to big and when I try to correct it it tells me I have already posted it. I haven't seen my post on there yet. Anyway thanks to you guys and your help . The bow ended up 65" tip to tip 58# backed with goat skin rawhide. The handle is also rawhide with a roled arrow rest. finished with hemp string over top of the rawhide.
Thanks again and ikf I can ever figure out how to send the pics I will
Robb
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When I now read additional options it tells you that your pics cannot be over 200kb, upon checking my pics their all from 560kb to 3.2mg. any ideas?
Robb
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You have to resize the pictures,I do it in Picture mananger,but I am sure there are other ways,I'm not to puter savey. ;) Someone will chim in and help you.
Pappy
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Open up a photobucket account and save the pics there. You just have to download pics one time and they are done. You can also open and name different folders in photobucket, which makes it easier to find picks later when you have several thousand. Anyway, photobucket will automatically resize them. When you start a new topic or post a message, open the photobucket in a different browser and you can just copy the IMG code (bottom of the list) from photobucket and paste it directly into the post. I do not use the additional options or the insert image link ( second from the left). Copy and paste works much faster. When you are dsone with copy and paste, click Preview and make sure the pics took and then post it. As long as you leave the pics in the original photobucket file, they will always be on your post. If you move them to a different file later, red X's will appear on the old post.
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You can also select your jpeg, and "Open With", then choose "Paint". Once in "Paint", select "Image", then select "Stretch and Skew", then under the "Stretch" heading change the "Horizontal" and "Vertical" each from "
100%", to about "20%".
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Hmmm, I'm going to be in Los Angeles all week. Better give me a heads up as soon as you figure out how to post your images. Otherwise, I'm likely to forget.
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open your photo, go to picture at the top, click on edit then resize - bam, your there :).
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Ok I got to be really stupid, any of you guys going to be up here in Canada and show me how to put these pics in. I guess head injurys don't help.
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(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/Robbsbass/SDC10260.jpg) I have no Idea what I did here but the picture appeared, but here it is 65" tip to tip 58lbs rawhide backed (goat skin) grip rawhide and hemp string
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Got your well-done hickory bow allbookmarked for Oct Self Bow of the Month. Very nice...any chance of pictures of the unbraced, braced, tip and handle for this bow?
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[img[/img]http://[/img](http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/Robbsbass/SDC10256.jpg)
Now heres the second shot of it hope you like it
Again, thanks for all the help and encourgement ,and thanks for putting up with some of my questions.
Robb
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(http://[img])[/img](http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/Robbsbass/SDC10283.jpg)
This is slow. Goat skin rawhide handle with hemp string on top. Since this pic the backing has been stained with a walnut stain which came out about 2 shades darker than the rest of thebow for a nice contrast.
Robb
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Cool looking bow,but I can't see the full draw,need to center the picture it is way off to the right. ;)
Pappy
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It appears to have some major hinges in each limb, too much stiff wood on each end of the handle.
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Hey Eric I don't think their really hinges, but
just the snakes. I have tried to put
inpics of the bow unstrung to show this but I just can't seem to
remember how to do it.
Robb
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Ahha! finally got the pictures to take :). Cool lookin bow! I tend to agree with Eric though - I like em to bend more right out of the fades.
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Congratulations on a fine bow. Listen to Eric. You have. Lots of experience to lean on here. I wish I had all these self wood bowyers to help me when I started. On the lower limb get more near handle wood bending. All the bending is taking place mid limb. If it is not a hinge it's pretty close. On the upper limb, mid limb on needs to bend more and the near handle wood needs to bend too. Have fun.THere's tillering info on my site. Jawge
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Robb--You say they're not hinges- just where the wood snakes. Do you mean that part of the bow has a natural bend toward the string? If not, then they would be hinges and will seriously damage your bow and it will not last for long. If they are natural angles in the wood toward the string, then as long as everything else is bending equally, and that you are bending comming out of the fades, you should be ok. I have bows like that.
~~Papa Matt
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Cool looking bow Robb. I consider it as a success. Its still in one piece which is an accomplishment in itself. Handle looks very cool. Listen to the advice given. Each bow is a learning tool. My problem is I can never remember what I learned ;D
Jesse
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Looks to me from the full draw photo, that you might have a bit of a hinge in the middle of the bottom limb. Maybe it's just the camera angle. Can you take some full draw pics from a full right angle?
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from what ive heared about black locust, it wont take tillering abuse. IE chryssalls at hinges. are there any chryssals at the spots in question?
at any rate, well done, and youll do even better on the next one :)
Phil
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(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/Robbsbass/SDC10278-1.jpg)here is the bow unstrung
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/Robbsbass/SDC10272.jpg)
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another angle
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/Robbsbass/SDC10282.jpg)
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Thanks you guys, being that tiis was my first, and it hasn't broken yet, well I guess thats a plus. I have shot it about 125 times now, so far so good. I appreciated all the help that I recieved
and the critique afterwards.
Thanks r
Robb(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/Robbsbass/SDC10269.jpg)
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Thats one heck of a whoop te do in that limb, I think you did a great job on her. Shoot it and enjoy :)
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No crystaling so far and touth wood, haha everything seems to be working fine. The reason I left wood at the handle was to keep the weight up , but I promise I will get better with experience
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Ok Dana and the rest of my new friends. Is that a hinge or a bend from the snake?
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looks like hinges in both limbs to me also
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Yep, maybe this picture will help you. I put red marks where the bow is bending to much and green marks where it could bend a bit more. ;D Nice job anyways for your first attempt. They should only get better from here.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Thanks Ryano,
Those lines you put in really help. Is it to late to take a little more wood from the area of the green lines, or would I lose the poundage, or just gain a little draw length which would be nice.
Robb
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You will loose some weight but it will make it last much longer,also how long is it and what is your draw,you could cut it off a bit and pick some of the weight back up. :) The whooped limbs can be a bear to see the tiller and easy to get them bending to much right passed the whoop.I try
to straighten them out with heat or steam before I start tillering,if possible.Sometimes you
can't get it all out but some will help. :)
Pappy
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Hey Pappy,
Thanks for your comments, their much appreciated. I think I'm going to take a little more off just before the handle and see what the weight is, if it is to low then I will shorten the bow by maybe 1/2 an inch on each end and see what happens. Thanks for your help. I'm guessing on draw lenght but I think about 29". I shoot 30" with the dreaded compound, sorry I had to mention that word.
Robb
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(http://)http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/Robbsbass/SDC10267.jpg
thats only shooting at the corner red at 10 yards
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Robbsbass, Looks like your getting some great advice and your well on your way. As Pappy stated sometimes them bumps and dives can make it a real bear to read the tiller. I second the thought on trying some heat treating on the belly and shaving a little on the stiff parts that Ryan pointed out. If you do pike it and shorten a little it will bring the poundage up, and you could probably get a little more limb working at the handle, this will help the draw length if shortened.
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Thanks Keenan,
This is all great advice for a guy like me. Now how do you heat treat it and what do you mean by pike it?
Robb
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Pike it means shorten both ends an equal amount. Take off an inch from each end and it will up your weight allowing you to re tiller it and still come in at target weight. Heat treating is what you can do as well to gain back pounds usually 5-8lbs if done correctly. Mark STLouis wrote the chapter on it in the latest version of the Bowyers Bible VOL 4. I won't try and explain it hear, plus there ar ethose that are much more qualified to do that. Iif someone has a link to an article or something that will help him put it on. Danny
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Thanks, the more I read from you guys the more I learn.
Robb
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I think Ryano spotted the parts that need a bit work. I would add that you need to scrape the top limb a bit mid limb on also. You know my first BL looked like that. It can be a tough wood to tiller. Jawge
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This may help you see it, Robb. Sometimes with these character bows you have to draw an imaginary arch through the limbs. Check this. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/seneca.html
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George, thanks for the information and pics you sent me. I decided to use your information and a few of the other guys thoughts. I'm going to take more wood out from the handle down, to try to get more bend and then take an inch off from both ends to keep the weight up. Hope this works.
Robb
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Ok, Rob. Let us know how it goes. Jawge
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(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/Robbsbass/SDC10334.jpg)
Just realized I never showed the tips, sorry their just plain, nothing fancy, just wanted them to look as natural as possible
Robb