Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: sailordad on September 27, 2008, 12:46:35 pm
-
ok so i got back to woring on my bow for hunting(hopefully)
never attempted a reflex deflex style bow before. its been glued up since the 4th of july,cut the profile 3 weeks later and its been sitting ever since.
well i got back to scraping on it and got it to brace,however it looks off and im in need of some advise before i go any further.
so i ask of all of you that have made r/d bows for some advise,
where should i work to even out the limbs?
not sure if you can see them but i have marks on the side of the limbs every six inches,please use for reference when giving advise
thanks all very much
(http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/900/1000663mb6.jpg)
oh yeah i forgot to mention that bow season started hered on 9/13. i havent been in the woods asof yet because i dont want to carry that heavy,noisy wheel bow this year.
im not going hunting untill i have this bow finished, so pleeeeaaaaaaase help me. ;)
peace,
tim
-
I would work from just out of the fade to the third mark on the left limb until it evens out with the outher.. then look at it again..
-
I agree with David the left limb needs some more work on it. I wouldn't take off much though.
-
somthing seems a miss here ? the limb on the right seems longer? depending on shelf etc?? ide take some measurments before i go any further??/,,,..snake
-
the limbs are the same length,there is no shelf,undecided as of yet which is toop and bottom,i'll let the bow decide that.
now i havent done any more work on it since i posted that pic. i let it sit for a few hours,watches some tv,put 65 miles on the bike
came home and braced it aqgain and this is what i saw,personnally dont know what changed. heres a pic
(http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5276/1000665xx2.jpg)
i took measurements at the tips less than 3/4 " diff from fence board to tip,every six inches down the limbs every thing measures same same on both limbs
any thoughts on what changed just from sitting?
gotta go take the wife out to supper now,thanks for the input as always
peace,
tim
-
A unbraced picture would help so we can see how much its bending out of the fades and how much is glued in deflex. I personaly would mess around with the fades much. It looks to me like its doing all it bending in the inner limb. The mid limb out is still reflexed so its not working much at all.
-
here ya go ryano
ask and ye shall recieve, an unbraced pic. the bow is laying upside down,to keep it balanced and not fall from the fence.
however it is still the same limb to the left.
thanks again
(http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/865/1000667wr8.jpg)
tim
-
My bows do that but its how I brace them, I put lower limb on right foot ,left knee on the handle and pull back with the other hand on top limb. Once its braced it looks kinda off ,but once I draw it once or twice every thing comes back to equilibrium. I bend top limb a little more getting the string on.
Dennis
-
i was wondering if the way it was braced had something to do with it.
-
Im gonna say left limb the mid and outer limb needs a little removal and the right fade a little to even them up but make sure that outer limbs are uncoiling during the draw. I think you will still have reflex at full draw with that profile. You could tiller it to an even curve but I think you would loose some power. This is by no means professional advice ;D Just my guess from seeing the pics. Might be different if I could see it working. Jesse
-
you just have it to brace ,not full tiller yet right
Dennis
-
kayakfisher, yup its just at brace,not even close to full tiller as of yet
jesse s ,you say that i should remove on the left mid to outer limb and the right fade,should i do this even though the measurements from string to belly
are the same(+ - 1/8") in the same spot on each limb,i have markes every six inches as measured from the tips,these are what i used as reference marks when measuring from string to belly
thanks again
tim
-
Tim, I'd pull on it to close to your intended draw weight about a inch at a time. Its really hard to tell whats working and whats not at this point. As long as the tiller seems to stays even and you don't see any problem places arising, take it another inch,etc,etc.... untill you see if those outer limbs are going to open up at all. They look to stiff to me.
-
Thats gonna be a god one.Ronnie
-
I would trust your tape measure more than my eye ;D I agree with Ryan its a little hard to tell without seeing it flexed a little. As Ryan said pull on it until you see an area that needs work. Get both limbs as even as possible and bending correctly then pull it to your draw weight slowly watching for trouble spots. See where your at. If your at 55# and is only 15" then just scrape both limbs the same and work out to your draw length. You probably know that already ;D Good luck
Jesse
-
ok so i havent done any more scraping as of yet.
ryano i did as you sugested and pulled a little on it, its pulling about 40lbs at 18 inches right now
i did have the wife take a pic to see what it looks like so far well here it is. let me know what ya'll think
(http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/8827/1000669na5.jpg)
thanks again
peace,
tim
-
I'd scrape where the red lines are.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
so would i be right to assume then that the outer limb area should bend in the same arc or very close to it as the inner limb are
does at full draw? ???
tim
-
I think you should end up with straight outer limbs. If you make it look like a normal tillered bow it might not perform as good as it could because outer limbs will be doing more than their share of the work. Just my 1 1/2 cents :) Jesse
-
How long is it? I'm guessing its pretty long and you'll end up with about straight outer limbs at your full draw. If it were shorter I'd get the outer limbs working even more Tim, but being hickory on the belly you might not want to tiller it to bend much passed straight in the outer limbs or you'll end up losing all your reflex. Hickory insn't a great choice for a belly wood, it takes to much set. Its a better tension wood than compression. Good luck to you. :)
-
ok so i been working ever so slowly on this,havent realy done any major scraping since i first posted it.
i do have it at full draw,26" 51 lbs. shoots pretty quick(atleast i think it does).
however i do get some hand shock, im thinking i could and probably should reduce the tips some, they are curently .85" wide by .52" thick.
how much can/should i remove without it affecting the tiller or draw weight?
sorry for the blurry pics, i just got up and took them and im not very good at close ups,either in front of or behind the camera lol
(http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/3950/1000674ao8.jpg)
(http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/4239/1000675ci7.jpg)
(http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/6784/1000677dc8.jpg)
(http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/8646/1000678xv2.jpg)
(http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/1155/1000680my6.jpg)
thanks for looking and the input
peace,
tim
-
It looks pretty good to me - it seems like the reflexed outer limbs are opening up about right.
-
Tim, your going to feel hand shock, you didn't get the outer limbs working enough. The top limb doesn't look to far off but the bottom is doing way to much bending in the inner limb area. I would expect that hickory to fret there in the inner limb area if you don't do something with it. That is if it hasn't already. Those stiff outer limbs are like long levers that have to travel farther and stop more abruptly than a bow tillered to bend more in the outer limbs....JMO. I'd tiller till you get a smooth arc in both limbs and maybe pike it to get some draw weight back.
-
Nice job - Great candidate for Oct Laminate Bow of the Month.
-
I am with Ryana the lower limb looks a little off to me to, lookin good though
Dennis
-
After reading Ryan's post and looking at the picture again I have to agree that the inner lower limb is bending too much.
-
alright thanks for the input
dont have a problem with piking it if need be,its got plenty of length.
the lower limb actually has a little positive tiller when just at brace,about 3/8ths of an inch.
if at all possible could you please identify the area that needs to be worked with red lines or something like to show me, i guess ive been looking at it too
long cause i dont see it, more eyes sure are nice when it comes to tillering.
could you also explain what is meant by "fretting" so i know what to look for.
peace,
tim