Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: woody on August 24, 2008, 10:27:43 pm

Title: Design Question
Post by: woody on August 24, 2008, 10:27:43 pm

Hi All,

I am wanting to build to a heavyier weight bow, say 80lbs or so at a 28" draw out of Red Oak.  I have been thinking about how to proceed with the design, but after thinking and rethinking the bow, I thought I would ask here for more experienced advice on what the bow should look like (front view shape, side view shape, length, type of handle, mass, etc.)  Of the "second string" woods, which would be your preference?

I don't have any parcticular reason for wanting a bow this heavy, except to say that I think it would be really cool!  :)

Title: Re: Design Question
Post by: Pat B on August 24, 2008, 11:37:40 pm

I think this is a question for Kegan to answer. Not only how to build an 80# bow with red oak but why you want to build an 80# bow! ;D       Pat

Title: Re: Design Question
Post by: Hillbilly on August 25, 2008, 08:49:29 am

If I was setting out to build an 80# bow, it probably wouldn't be from a red oak board. Not that it won't make one, but there are better options. :)

Title: Re: Design Question
Post by: Auggie on August 25, 2008, 09:27:17 am

I agree with Hillbilly, redoak works,but there are better choices for the poundage. Redoak probably would have a short life span at that poundage,unless you backed it with hickory.

Title: Re: Design Question
Post by: adb on August 25, 2008, 11:01:11 am

If I was setting out to build an 80# bow, it definately wouldn't be from oak of any sort. Yew or osage would be my choices, self or backed.

Title: Re: Design Question
Post by: Kegan on August 25, 2008, 05:27:14 pm

I like Oak for my bows, and most of the pull over 70# (and preferably over 80#). if you're using a good dry stave, then so long as you make sure it's long enough and tiller slowly, you can use the ELB dimensions from Pope's book, but add a few inches in length (6' for instance). Heat treating helps insure that it will reach weight and pull the desired amount. Making sure it's long and bends the full length helps reduce stress. I've used sassafras, red and  white oak, and hickory.I've abused oak bows worse than that and they've worked fine at such weights (about 66" long, and narrow) with heat treating.

Though a wide limbed flatbow works very well too. ThimoS posted an 80# red oak board bow on paleoplanet, about man's height, 3" wide tapering in eiffel-tower (sp?) tips.

Title: Re: Design Question
Post by: woody on August 25, 2008, 06:10:19 pm

That's good advice...I'll probably end up doing a long ELB and a long flatbow just to see what happens. Thanks!  :) 

Title: Re: Design Question
Post by: Kegan on August 25, 2008, 06:25:00 pm

I take what everyone taught me and apply it to Monster-killing bows ;D!

Title: Re: Design Question
Post by: Pat B on August 26, 2008, 10:51:38 am

I knew Kegan would have an answer for ya! ;)    Pat