Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: newknapper on August 24, 2008, 08:49:50 pm
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Black locust 68" , 1 1/2" @ the fades to mid limb. I wanted to make it 1 5/8" but didnt have enough wood to do so. The following pics are of some pin knots that were close to the edge and could not go around them b/c of lack of material, and dont think I should remove them b/c the limbs are already narrow as i want to go. So can i back it with something and make it ok?
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online001-3.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online002-3.jpg)
Their on opposite limbs of the bow
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online003-3.jpg)
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I have had a couple like that back it with rawhide it will probably be alright
Dennis
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Will you post a pic of the side and belly of the bow at the knots? On both, if they stays on the side through the limb, I might take them out and leave the limb a bit thicker there to accommodate the less width. You're only talking 1/4" or less from where I sit. The rest of the stave looks clean enough to handle the decrease in width. Pat
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Will you post a pic of the side and belly of the bow at the knots? On both, if they stays on the side through the limb, I might take them out and leave the limb a bit thicker there to accommodate the less width. You're only talking 1/4" or less from where I sit. The rest of the stave looks clean enough to handle the decrease in width. Pat
We'll do Pat, I will take them tomorrow. I havent started reducing the belly yet waiting on advice what to do.
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On the next one, when you have a knot near the edge, just let the line flow out around it and leave some extra width there. Nobody said that a wooden bow has to have straight lines. :)
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here ya go pat
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online001-4.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online002-4.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online003-4.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online004-2.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online005-1.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online006.jpg)
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I don't really think you have much of a problem. You have plenty of good wood where the small knots are located. I would proceed without concern if it was my bow.
Dave
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I would have to agree with Dave. If it was mine I'd leave them just like that and make a bow. I've made several very similar to that and never had a problem.
Alan
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You can also take some Titebond and put a couple drops right into those knots, before your stain/finish. This would be a quick, cheap way to give yourself some assurance. If it was me, I'd also wrap those areas in sinew, just because I like the added assurance. Not saying you'd have to do that.
~~Papa Matt
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Like Hillbilly said, next time go with the grain of wood. It's what makes self bows unique.
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Yes, I normally let the wood swirl around a knot. Leave it wider in that area. A selfbow doesn't have to have to same width through out. You could try leaving a little, just a little more wood on the belly under the knot. Remember when tillering the knotted area should appear a little stiffer, just a little because those are small knots. More info on my site. Jawge
http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/
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Good grief, now look at this and gimme your thoughts. The stave was narrow where the hadle is now, I am guessing that when it was split it splinter'd and left this gouge. I thought it would be gone by now from floor tillering, will its bending good on the floor and it still there. Any ideas, one good thing is the more I do this the more I learn ::)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online002-5.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online003-5.jpg)
here is the booger
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/newknapper/online004-3.jpg)
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If it was me!! from just seeing pics I would try and use a scrapper or sand paper and feather it out you wont lose much draw weight as it is on the side..
David
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Knight is right. I think that's what most of us would do. If it really bother you, you could get some liquid wood and fill it in, but the quickest, easiest, and most efficient would be to just lightly sand it out. It should not be a problem.
~~Papa Matt
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Thanks folks, I will try to feather out the edges some. I'll post progress and more ????'s....lol
Gotta make a trip to the hardware store, can't seem to find my nock file :-\
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i would take some tb2 and mix in some sawdust and fill in the gaps, i did this on a little osage bow that i mad ( sliver ) i had a huge hunk missing right on a top edge of a limb and ive put about 500 arrow thru it now and havent had a problem
good luck, you can make it work just be patient
tim
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If it is just floor tillered ,most of it will probably be gone by the time you finish tillering,I dout it
will cause any problem,just give it a little character. :) I guess you could fill it but I wouldn't
untill I was finished tillering. :)
Pappy
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I think what Pappy said is right on, if it's only floor tillered waite and see what you end up with befor you start tring to sand it out.
Mark
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If it is just floor tillered ,most of it will probably be gone by the time you finish tillering,I dout it
will cause any problem,just give it a little character. :) I guess you could fill it but I wouldn't
untill I was finished tillering. :)
Pappy
Thanks guys for all the help, I really would like for this one to work for me.
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New, I think it will work. Just do like they say and tiller it on out, then depending on how much if a gouge you still have (maybe none) you can decide whether to fill it or sand it out. You're doing OK.
~~Matt