Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bowkill on August 23, 2008, 01:42:47 am
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(Sorry, but unable to post photos)
Here it is in a nutshell.
55" ntn
1 1/2" wide
D shape bend in handle
Tried to make a plains style bow
Tiller good: On tillering tree At full draw (25") it looks great (to me). Nice fairly eavenly curving limbs and 55 lbs
Tiller bad: When braced one limb looks like it doesn't have near as much bend. The D looks off.
Question: What do I do? Is this possible, or is my untrained eye not seeing the stiffness of the one limb at full draw?
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Bowkill, dont sweat it to much, them shorty bows really exagerate tiller issues..if it shoots with little to no handshock it cant be off to much. If you remove wood from the stiffer braced limb it WILL effect the full draw... does the stiffer limb have more reflex(or less set) when unbraced?....Brian
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The stiffer limb does has a little more "natural" string follow. It's a little snakey and has a natural bend in it there. The other limb doesn't have any follow at all (yet).
Here is another question. I've looked at other bows similar to this on here, and at full draw they usually have 4-6 inches of arrow sticking out in front of the bow. I planned on cutting my arrows to "fit" the bow. Isn't that what I should do?
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well if the tiller looks good at draw, let the arrows fly brother.
as far as arrow length goes. thats a personal preferance thing,some people leave them long so they dont have to worry about getting their fingers in
the way of broadheads,some like tucked up to the bow(like on a wheel bow),myself i leave thme a little long about two inches past the back of the bow.
its not much but it gives me a little comfort knowing my knuckles are clear of the broadhead,and if i pull a little harder i still keep the arrow here it needs to be.
peace,
tim
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Make the stiffer limb the lower limb. When you draw it gets more stress, and bering stiffer it will be stronger and hold up better.
You might try bracing it and then meauring the depth from belly to string at set distances from the center of the bow. That'll give you some idea of how far off it is. You typically want the lower limb to be 1/8"-1/4" closer to the string at the deepest point (which will be pretty close to the handel on a bendy handle bow.)
As for arrow length, its more im portant that the arrows be spined for the bow. Shortening an arrow, makes it effectively stiffer. Using a heavier point, makes it more limber. You want to play with the combination of length and point weight (if you have different weight field points that is) until you get good arrow flight, ie, the arrow doesn't slap the riser on takeoff or consistently hit left or right of where you're aiming. But yes its nice not to have arrows sticking way out front of the bow riser, so you can always get a closer-spined arrow for your draw weight to start and thatll make it more likely that they'll be of a length taht isn't too m uch out in front of the riser.
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Well, Tom said everything I was going to say.
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I'll try a couple photos. I know you guys are jealous of my fancy bow rack, but I work on the road, and took these photos in my motel room. (The maids haven't said anything yet about the strange yellow dust in the bathroom)
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Hey!!! It worked!!! Here are a couple more.
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Nice bow! I have worked on the road a lot and have shot in my room but never made a bow in the tub, good idea.
Left limb looks a little stiffer in both the brace and drawn photos. It is bending less about the middle third. Before you take any off though you should shoot it some. See how it feels and figure out which is the top and bottom limb. As stated above, the bottom limb likes to be a little stiffer and a bit closer to the string at brace.
Not reason to cut arrows real short, you'd need very weak spine for a 26" arrow. Let em hang out there a bit, makes it easier to point too.
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Thanks for the reply. Now tell me how you shoot in your room!!!
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get you a good old Couch Cushion....they work awesome!!!
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Very nice Bowkill. You done good! Pat
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To shoot in a motel room, set a cube type layered target on the lounge chair in one corner and back up as far as you can into the far corner. This is great for working on form and to keep you bow drawing muscles in shape. Hint.... stop before you get real tired, the little round holes hardly show in the chair, but you don't want to make a habit of it. If you chose your hotel for its location, you can sometimes shoot in the back yard.
Always admired the 30 yard potential of the hallways but could never figure out how to keep people in their rooms.
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You are a Whacko Shaun.....my kinda people!!!
>:D
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That's gotta be a La Quinta ;D. What kind of work do you do? Bow's looking good, I carry a small hand broom and dust pan in my tool box for shaving's and chips so housekeeping doesn't say anything ;).
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now thats a primitive looking bow nice
thats how i like em
but i would guess thatas a Quality Inn, rom looks exactly like the one i'm in right now
tim
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Got MotelBow bookmarked for Aug Self BOM. Thanks.
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Actually it's an Americ Inn. I'm an insurance adjuster. Currently arguing with roof salesmen in Minneapolis Minnesota.
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Actually it's an Americ Inn. I'm an insurance adjuster. Currently arguing with roof salesmen in Minneapolis Minnesota.
Dang....We know who has all the Money now.....AmericInn......dem aint no Super 8's......etter not shoot at their Chair Cushions!!!
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I think they may frown on me shooting the cushins. :o I did go out back and shoot a little. That was after I took a little off the stiff limb. It's still may be a little stiff, but for some reason when it's at the top I hit every leaf I point it at!!! Whit the other limb up, I hit a little to the right. I guess the stiff one wants to be the top limb.
Now for my questions: How much should I shoot it before sanding smooth and putting a finish on it?
What kind of finsih? I wanted just a rub on finish, I don't want to spray it. I was thinking of
lindseed oil.
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Once you are happy with the Tiller...shoot it 50 - 100 times....sand Her smooth.....check the Tiller again to make sure the finish sanding wasn't too much....and then rub 4-5 good coats of Linseed Oil into Her.....I like the smell of Linseed Oil....some cant stand it....but for sure the Maids will smell it!!!!
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I work in the chip mill buisness this means I can shoot at the mill after work also a nice pile of about 10.000 cords of bow wood laying around.R.C.
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I like the way Shaun thinks too.
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You did an excellent job on that. If you find the handshock a bit much take some wood off mid limb on. If not you are good to go. great you can work in a motel. Jawge
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Holy cow! another adjuster. That's what I do when I have to support my bow habit. Got a call to go to MNPLS about two weeks ago but was still busy near home with local claims. I have worked for the Crawford Co branch up there almost every year, good folks. I did a storm there for SF a couple years back and told them I had to leave by the end of October for the rut. The said the what??? I went to Gander Mt and got a paper antler set (kinda like a BK crown) and stuck it up on my Delbert cubical. Turned in my files on Oct 30 and hurried home to climb into a tree stand. Gotta have priorities.
I like TruOil for a finger rub on finish. Pick it up at WalMart in the sporting goods section around the gun cleaning goop - its a gun stock finish and comes in little brown plastic bottles. About $5 and you can put on a coat every few hours with light buffing between.
Good luck with the roofers
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Actually it's an Americ Inn. I'm an insurance adjuster. Currently arguing with roof salesmen in Minneapolis Minnesota.
yup lots of strom damage in that area, your only qbout 60 miles from me ;D
i live just north of there off of I94 in st cloud, atleast when im not on vacation. right now im in SC,be back around the 1st of sept
you can come look at my roof ifn ya want too,just had an adjuster look at my expedition, $1700 worth of small dents from hail on that one
have fun,thers probably a few more stroms to come yet this year
peace,
tim