Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bigcountry on July 28, 2008, 12:24:22 pm
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I am trying to layout a design for a yew longbow to duplicate the one in TBB1. Basically a 1.25" wide pyamid limb tapering to 5/8" tips with a 4" handle and 4" fades (total 12"). I have enough wood for a 71" Tip to tip bow.
But what is confusing me, is they are calling out for a 1" longer top limb? The ones I have laidout out of osage basically have even limb lengths and tillered for center of handle and string.
Why would I want a 1" longer top limb? I shoot three under by the way.
Thanks,
Mark
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I lay out most of my bows symmetrically(both limbs even length) these days and it makes it easier for me to see tiller. Shooting with 3 under you add extra stress to the bottom limb but as long as the bow is tillered for 3 under there should be no problems.
Are you building an ELB style or an ALB style? What is your draw length? You can get your tips smaller than 5/8". For an ELB with horn nocks I would go 1/2" and for an ALB with tip overlays I would go 3/8" or even less. Pat
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Some bowyers make the top limb longer so that the bottom limb is stiffer (because it is shorter). To some this makes the tillering a little easier because you will alyays need a stiffer bottom limb because there is more stress upon it.....espically is you shoot 3 under.
Others claim that it gives the bow more balance in the hand.
Some bows I make that way but most times I make them even lenght. Its a prefernce thing that you will work out as you make bows.
SJM
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I lay out most of my bows symmetrically(both limbs even length) these days and it makes it easier for me to see tiller. Shooting with 3 under you add extra stress to the bottom limb but as long as the bow is tillered for 3 under there should be no problems.
Are you building an ELB style or an ALB style? What is your draw length? You can get your tips smaller than 5/8". For an ELB with horn nocks I would go 1/2" and for an ALB with tip overlays I would go 3/8" or even less. Pat
I think I am going to make this symmetric too. They say you want equal tiller for 3 under and tiller to be 3/8-1/2" longer more for split on one limb.
I am still looking this stave over to see what I have. It had some windshake damage, and I spent some time last night on the bandsaw cutting on it to see if the damage went deep.
Since I have only 1.3" of room for the limb at its widest point and still stay with the grain, I figured its going to be a combo. Not sure what you would call it. Basicallly a stiff handle design with semi rounded belly. Kinda like the design in the TBB vol 1.
I orignally was going to make a flatbow design with wide limbs. But with the windshake damage, I now don't have the width desired.
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If you look on page 7 for "15 Mile Yew" that I posted you will see the yew bow I recently made. This one bends through the handle because I had no more wood to work with but it is a very good shooting bow...it will be my hunting bow this fall. It has a semi rounder belly and fairly high crowned back and it and 2 other staves were split from a log about 5" in diameter. Pat
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The reason for making the lower limb shorter is that you are trying to get the arrow to fly out of the very center of the spring.
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If you look on page 7 for "15 Mile Yew" that I posted you will see the yew bow I recently made. This one bends through the handle because I had no more wood to work with but it is a very good shooting bow...it will be my hunting bow this fall. It has a semi rounder belly and fairly high crowned back and it and 2 other staves were split from a log about 5" in diameter. Pat
Oh, yea, I followed it. I am pretty much eating up any info on yew and rounded belly designs. You did a fine job.
I still have time to make it bend thru the handle. I haven't cut it yet. I have never done one of those bows. But I figured, I have over 71" to work with.
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The reason for making the lower limb shorter is that you are trying to get the arrow to fly out of the very center of the spring.
I figured that, but never seen anyone do it before besides production bows. The guy I kinda learned from alwasy tillered the bow dead center of the string and handle.