Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: razorbak on February 11, 2024, 10:56:58 am
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Ok after careful consideration I’m wanting to build a full length caul for adding reflex and straightening out bows. looking for some ideas. Any dimensions and do you guys perfer dry heat or steaming? Last several flip tips I’ve done delveoped cracks and fractures using dry heat and coating the limbs with olive oil and haven’t tried steaming yet….. thanks in advance
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This caul does 66-70 bows. You will get a smooth drawing and fast bow. It’s been proven by 3D Shooters winning tournaments and many flight records. Are there others out there of course.
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Here are a few of mine.
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Awesome ! How many inches of reflex are you guys going for and how are you coming up for your numbers. Do you perfer to steam or dry heat?
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Awesome ! How many inches of reflex are you guys going for and how are you coming up for your numbers. Do you perfer to steam or dry heat?
About 3-4” baked in generally but depends on the build. The ones shown here were hickory bows clamped down to the cauls in prep for heat treatment. They were all 4” reflex. They retained about 2.5-3.5” of that after tiller.
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I prefer dry heat on dry Osage. Just take it slow on the recurves. I usually rough my tips about 1/2-3/4” wide and about 5/8” thick
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For more major corrections and recurves I use steam. For minor dry heat in form of heat treatment over coal bed when clamped into desired shape using the form. This sets it to the shape I want pretty well for white woods. For Osage I do the same as selfbowman/ Arvin.
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I’m still on the fence with dry heat vs steam as I tried both and 6 bows in process failed with fractures and cracks. I timed each limb accordingly I have a small Osage stave that I steamed to put curves in the tips and so far it’s very promising and built a adjustable caul that can go from 58” stave to 64” main caul is 60” but with adjustable pins on the ends that extend out up to 2.5” on each end. Just need to finish wood plug for the steel pin I know I’m gonna have to figure out what works best for me if I want a higher performing self now
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I use a variety of cauls, depending on what I building. They're so easy to build using scrap wood.
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Do you bring a solid growth ring through the back when bending in recurves? That stopped for me when I switched that up.
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Here’s one I use. I have a straight 2x2 screwed to a 2x12 on 1 side, and a radiused 2x screwed to the other side. I can clamped down and sideways at the same time when needed.
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This is an adjustable caul that will make just about any length you want.
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I did these recurves with dry heat.
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Those are great looking forms I’m gonna be incorporating some ideas in my next caul/form build I used steam today on putting some curves on a bow and damn tip overlays and underlay popped off but luckily I was able to glue it back up and once it cures I’ll try again
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Ya I’d put any tip overlays on after any heat or steam correction fyi for future. Especially if it gets close to the outer limb and tip area.
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Was thinking the same thing Dave. I seem to recall that glue will only take so much heat. For some reason I want to say I remember 180 degrees for some of it. I’m thinking steam is like 215 degrees but I could be mistaken. Anyway not surprised that your overlays came off razorback.