Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Selfbowman on December 17, 2023, 03:02:40 pm
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I haven’t done many hickory bows at all. But what few I have done hickory does not seam to hold heat as long as Osage on the heat bench. Could it be because Osage is more dense?
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I would think that's the reason. I have noticed the same things with other less dense woods like juniper. :OK
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Ok Bob how do I heat hickory to get the same results as Osage? My hickory does not hold the caul as good as my Osage . Do I need to steam it ?
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Very good Hickory stave with slight propeller. 67” ntn 9” handle, 2”wide at fades 2” 9” toward mid limb . 1-1/2” wide 18” from fade, 1/2 at tips
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Well I did something right . Not sure how. Look at first heat straighten .
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I know y’all are tired of seeing the same bow design from me but I’m want to compare good Osage with good hickory. Also the design is hard to beat in broadhead flight. Why fix what’s not broken. 🤠literally
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I have only done 1 Hickory, and it was actually our native Texas Pecan, but I fought the same with it. I could not get it bend much no matter how much dry heat I applied. I have had the same issue with Hackberry.
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Well Arvin, it looks like you worked it out on that one. Yes, hackberry is another one that doesn't hold heat like osage. Maybe slower but longer heat...or a complete 'heat treat' while on the form would be the key...? Your design works Arvin...why change it? :OK
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Arvin sounds like you are running out of good Osage. It is hard to teach a old dog new tricks, but if you want to mimac Osage performance with hickory you may want to learn the fire hardened method from start to finish though the bow you did above looks good if it stays like it looks now. If starts to suck up moisture,and takes some set you will never be able to truly compare the 2 different woods to each other. It is pretty much a given that Osage is the king of self bow wood, but a well tillered fire hardened hickory bow will come close. Respecfully Bob.
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Well y’all know me I’ll test it for broadhead flight we will see . I’m also curious to see how the mass works out. If it comes out 20 oz or under it could win.
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I should do a heat treat build along on here for my next hickory build start to finish focusing on the heat treatment process. Hickory is hard to beat really when properly heat treated. Like bob said low and slow heat treatment is best. The heat gun can work but it’s my last result as it’s more labour intensive as you have to move the heat gun manually even if you have it mounted to a holder to maintain a consistent depth from the belly with heat. I’ve done rudimentary testing with similar bow builds comparing Osage to hickory. Not focused on flight as you are doing here Arvin so that should be a unique perspective for sure and one I’m sure to watch with much anticipation. It’s been my experience that a good knot free piece of Osage and a similar quality hickory stave made into well tillered bows will out two completely different bows even if properly dried and seasoned. Different in both performance and set. However if this same piece of hickory is then properly heat treated deeply and slowly with radiant heat I have found that the set is in fact less on the hickory bow. We all know that Osage is the king of bow woods but I suggest that the heat treated hickory will be lighter in mass and will also retain less moisture despite it being known for being a sponge and soaking up moisture. The heat treatment permanently changes the cell structure of the bow and makes it less likley to accept moisture. For those who have tried a fire pit heat treated bow will know what I’m talking about here. My fastest bow to date is a heat treatment hickory bow. This has been shot many many times over last year or so and still hasn’t taken any more set. For a comparison I made two matching bows as best as I could do in design and layout. Both were 48-50lbs. Both shot very well and both shot around the 175-180fps at 10gpp. The hickory bow consistently shot 2-4 fps faster then the Osage bow. I know guys on here will not like this and may disagree but this is what I found. The mass of both bows were very interesting actually…. Osage bow was just over 630grams while the hickory was just over 600grams. I suspect this may have had something to do with the difference is speed found.
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Ok Dave I’ll see if you did your test right.🤠🤠🤠 Jokeing! You may very well be right about the mass Dave. Right now the hickory weighs 32.4 oz. and a guess of 80-90 pounds@28” . My Osage comes in at 24-28oz. So the mass may differently help the hickory.
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If the hickory comes in lighter in mass and less set. We may have a new kid on the block.
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If the hickory comes in lighter in mass and less set. We may have a new kid on the block.
Oh ya we do. If you heat treat that sucker good you’ll be amazed actually. The hickory will be heavier now but when put to heat it will lighten up significantly.
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(-P great stuff here...thanks guys...I have a nice hickory stave just waiting for the how to...
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It’s good and dry Dave. Only one spot showed any moisture. And that was only about five little spots. I like the way this piece of hickory is acting!
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It’s good and dry Dave. Only one spot showed any moisture. And that was only about five little spots. I like the way this piece of hickory is acting!
It’s great start then!
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Will be watching closely Arvin. I have not worked any hickory yet, but considering cutting some come spring, and laying up a few staves to try in the future. Always enjoy learning from your experience.
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When I built my first bow it was hickory. I built it before I found this site. Wood was pretty green and I knew nothing about drying it out before I built it. I can’t remember how long it was from splitting it till I built it but not nearly long enough. It followed the string somewhat but actually shot pretty good. I made a few more out of that same bunch and tried drying it over coals from a fire . One I over cooked and one I didn’t cook enough. The overcooked one developed cracks and of course the undercooked one took some set. I finally built a pit just for cooking bows over but haven’t used it yet. I’ll be watching this one for sure. I have a really nice hickory stave that’s been drying since 4/21 I got in a trade with superdave. I’ve had a bow laid out on it for a while now, just waiting on some motivation. I think I might have found it. Thanks guys.
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I have done a bunch of Hickory and fine it reacts well to heat ??? I do get it pretty hot, I want it hot enough to touch but you know you don't want to hold on, dry and seasoned is the key I think, I have it good and floor tillered before bending or adding reflex. I do it a little different, I pull the tips into the form first, then start at the handle and work out to the tips, My thoughts are it is absorbing the heat all the way and the limb already has some pressure on it from the tips being pulled in, I also usually leave it on the form overnight, seems to hold most of what i do to it when I do it this way, like I always say, lots of way to skin a cat ;) but this works well for me. Hickory make a great tough bow and in dry environments it should really shine. :) Watching Arvin ;) :) :)
Pappy
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I have done a bunch of Hickory and fine it reacts well to heat ??? I do get it pretty hot, I want it hot enough to touch but you know you don't want to hold on, dry and seasoned is the key I think, I have it good and floor tillered before bending or adding reflex. I do it a little different, I pull the tips into the form first, then start at the handle and work out to the tips, My thoughts are it is absorbing the heat all the way and the limb already has some pressure on it from the tips being pulled in, I also usually leave it on the form overnight, seems to hold most of what i do to it when I do it this way, like I always say, lots of way to skin a cat ;) but this works well for me. Hickory make a great tough bow and in dry environments it should really shine. :) Watching Arvin ;) :) :)
Pappy
Pappy, this is also how I do it. Good dry hickory is still pretty forgiving when adding in reflex or flipping tips. I’ve even taken greener basic floor tillered hickory and added full recurves. It’s chancy but doable. That’s how resilient this wood is.
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This paper may have good material on heat and wood bending. (I have only read the abstract so far.)
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00107-020-01637-3 (https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00107-020-01637-3)
Here is a quote from the full article: The
amount of lignin varies between species, and also between
individual tissues such as bark, earlywood, latewood, normal
wood and compressed wood, branch wood, wood from the
roots; also by cell types (parenchyma or fibers), and cell
wall layers, for example middle lamella, primary and sec-
ondary wall layer, and cell corners."
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Jim I would be in a dictionary for a week in order to read that article in any depth!🤠🤠 but I do believe the early wood is the weakest link in the wood. This is where the shear happens as the wood is bent to full draw. Can’t prove any of it. But the back stretches and the belly compressed so shear is happening. Just makes sense to me. Now if you have one ring on the belly and heat treat that ring to bring the compression strength up to match the tension on the back you have a neutral plain in the middle . My record Osage selfbow has three late rings and two early rings. Leaving the shear points on each side of the middle late ring. Does it have anything to do with the performance. I don’t know or can prove any of it .
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Arvin, I've had good luck adding reflex to hickory but when doing recurves they seem to pull out. I think steam would be better for recurves but let it dry well first on the form and then set the recurves in dry heat, scorching the wood pretty well. I've not done this but if I make another hickory with recurves this is how I'll do it.
You can always add underlays at the recurves. It doesn't take much to make them stiffer that way.
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Tip overlays . Osage could not help my self.🤠
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I believe that 6% mc hickory can outshoot osage or at least keep up with it. Just make sure you don't tiller it with high moisture.
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I love a good hickory bow. I also heat the snot out of it. I’ll slow heat the belly with the heat gun until I can’t hold my hand on it then bring the gun closer and slower until that belly is dam near black.it takes me from about 20” don’t to about 12” for the same poundage. I’ve tested out with a second heat treat after this with no effect. For hickory recurves and heavy flip tips it’s worked for me to steam the area into shape let it cool then dry heat it till the belly is black. on spots the back isn’t touch in the form I can feel the back of the bow and the heat has sunk through enough it feel good and hot but can just keep my hand on the wood.this isn’t from the heat rebounding off the form but radiating through the wood.
Kyle
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I believe that 6% mc hickory can outshoot osage or at least keep up with it. Just make sure you don't tiller it with high moisture.
+1 for me on that!
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If the hickory comes in lighter in mass and less set. We may have a new kid on the block.
Careful there! Someone I know once said, "Well I'll say!! Osage is king!!"
;D
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I love a good hickory bow. I also heat the snot out of it. I’ll slow heat the belly with the heat gun until I can’t hold my hand on it then bring the gun closer and slower until that belly is dam near black.it takes me from about 20” don’t to about 12” for the same poundage. I’ve tested out with a second heat treat after this with no effect. For hickory recurves and heavy flip tips it’s worked for me to steam the area into shape let it cool then dry heat it till the belly is black. on spots the back isn’t touch in the form I can feel the back of the bow and the heat has sunk through enough it feel good and hot but can just keep my hand on the wood.this isn’t from the heat rebounding off the form but radiating through the wood.
Kyle
I agree Kyle. A good slow deep cook is the trick.
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If the hickory comes in lighter in mass and less set. We may have a new kid on the block.
Careful there! Someone I know once said, "Well I'll say!! Osage is king!!"
;D
Lol I was wondering when some one was gonna catch that!
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Osage still is the King until Its not. 4th heat session. Getting there.
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Hang in there Arvin...but I have an abundance of hickory here on the farm, but no osage...so I'm kinda hoping that we figure out a way to make it (at least) almost as good... :OK
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I also have lots of hickory on my place and no Osage, in my early years I use to trade 2 or 3 to 1 for Osage, I have several kinds of Hickory but pig nut seems to be the best for me. :)Looking good Arvin. :)
Pappy
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Same here pappy. I’ve got lots of hickory and no Osage. The hickory I have most access to is shagbark variant. I find it to be little denser then the pignut up here. It also has a heartwood that is quite hard too. One day I’ll make a heartwood shagbark bow backed with boo. Should be good I suspect.
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The only two varieties that I'm sure I have are mockernut and bitternut. I know there's no shagbark on my farm, but there may be other varieties. It all seems hard to split.
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Starting to bend on floor tiller. Getting the clamps to go away. About 3-1/2” told reflex.
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Pic
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Ok hopefully this is it on the caul. Heat treatments complete!
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I also have lots of hickory on my place and no Osage, in my early years I use to trade 2 or 3 to 1 for Osage, I have several kinds of Hickory but pig nut seems to be the best for me. :)...
Pappy
The Forest Products Laboratories data agrees: Pignut hs the best numbers.
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Well it went from53% humidity to 93 % so I guess Arvin’s patience will be tested for the next 4-5 days! .
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I also have lots of hickory on my place and no Osage, in my early years I use to trade 2 or 3 to 1 for Osage, I have several kinds of Hickory but pig nut seems to be the best for me. :)...
Pappy
The Forest Products Laboratories data agrees: Pignut hs the best numbers.
This is interesting jim. I’ve read a few articles that suggest the same. Proper Heat treatment is key for both variations regardless. My personal observations and testing has revealed that shellbark/shagbark variety makes just as good of a bow or even better as far as heat treated bow is concerned. Raw dry wood may not tell the whole story here. I know this may go contrary to the research but I have made many of both variations as I have lots of access to both pignut and shagbark here. I have found that the pignut is less dense and less hard then my shagbark that I’ve got access to. Do the particular shagbark trees I have access to have more density for some other reasons? Maybe. Could results vary depending on locations and conditions? I believe so. I don’t have a janka meter or a scientific way to measure this as far as hardness goes but the mass of a bow made with either wood I see different performance results and set. Not a significant amount but some. I find that the shagbark when heat treated deeply doesn’t check and crack as much as pignut also. I’ve taken two staves one of each cut the same day and left for a year to season and dry. Both worked down to rough bow dimensions and clamped to a form and get less checking on the shagbark for some reason. This didn’t make sense to me either as you would think that the denser shagbark would hold moisture longer then the less dense pignut. I wonder if the lignins and pectins levels in the shagbark are higher??? When I do a deep heat treat on my hickories I’ve noticed that there is a residue or almost a darker syrupy Color developed at the grain run outs where the tapering or narrowing and also at the ends of the limbs. Sometimes can even see and hear the steam escape when heat treating. Is this an indication of more lignin and pectins in the wood? Maybe. Anyway I’m rambling here a bit but things I’ve wondered about speaking of hickory in particular and what I’ve seen. In fact I’d go as far as to say that I’ve noticed more similarities between my shagbark to ironwood/hhb when finished out as a heat treated bow. The shagbark is obviously my preferred wood of the two because of the ability of getting nice straight staves. Hard to beat in my opinion. All anecdotal I know but still observed. Fwiw.
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Dave have ever built close as you can to the same dimensions then check mass weight of both. Maybe cut some sample pieces and weigh the samples. Ring thickness could also weigh in on the mass. With Osage I have not tested the thick late rings but if you can see the lunar rings it does not seam as dense.
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As you observed--anecdotal.
The problem is that there is probably more variation within a species than there is in the averages of the two woods.
FPL did a great many tests of each species and used the best equipment available at the time.(1920s, IIRC).
Our best hope of getting accurate results would be to test for specific gravity. A stick of any cross sectional shape, uniform from end to end and marked in 10 divisions can be floated vertically in water and the number at the water surface noted. Of course, divisions between the 10 major divisions would be needed and the accuracy of those marks and of observing the water level would affect the reading.
And, the wood samples would have to be at the same moisture content.
Other than that, most our experience with set and bending strength may well be due to that variation from one stick of pig nut to another.
I have several species of hickory on my land, bur have only used shag bark, because those were the trees I wanted to remove, for one reason or another.
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Thanks for the time to show the process here first off .But silly question time. All those shims between the stave and the caul? Is that your way to try and remove twist? And does it not allow for heat to wrap around and give a better chance to over heat the back of the bow? Always wanted to ask. And I'm sure the answer is simpler than I think. Thanks.
Mike
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Mike on this one the shins staked up so high is because I was to lazy to make another caul. But I often put a 1/4 “ shim under the handle toward the end of tiller say 20” or so on the tiller tree. Then clamp the ends and slide a 1/4” shim between the caul and the back to get it to barely touch the length of the limbs. Also if you have a knot you can put the shim on each side and it will not be affected by the caul. I seam to have more scorching when the heat reflects off the caul on to the back edges.
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Anyone built a bow limb like this to prove mass placement? Ok time for science to laugh at me. I’ve seen big tooth pic bows so Badger here is mass principle at its best. I have some drops off the bottom of my staves I think I will see how it tillers
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There are probably dimensions that can work, but if the width approaches the thickness, at some point, it will become unstable laterally.
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Thanks for the explanation! I'll hope to try that sometime. Better solution than having to to make a hole in your caul to to keep things flat by a knot.
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Yes Jim I agree on lateral stable. I just used those dimensions because I built a 50# bow once that was close to 7/8 by 7/8. The bow was quick with little set . Narrow stave.
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Well humidity down to 65 so I worked on the tiller. No set at 20”. 40# at 20” on the long string. Getting close on tiller. But I want more recurve in the ends . New caul. Going to deep heat once more. Will have to retiller to final weight.
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Ok mass is down to 25.7 oz . Probably 2-3oz to come out of the handle. Still 5-8# to heavy. Might reach 20-21oz finish. Well see.
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very interesting build along! if you were to use a different wood type, let's say black locust, how would you change the design?
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Not sure yet but these width dimensions and length dimensions that I gave On page one I’m sure would work on locust also. Everyone says I over build in width but that’s what works for me. ive only built a couple of black locust bows . But if you want to send me a really good stave I’ll try one.🤠
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Looking very good Arvin, you just can't stop fooling with one, like me I am working on a yew bow, had it out to 50 at 24 and shooting well but at short draw, just need a couple more inches and a few pounds off but decide I wanted to flip the tips a bit so with that done back to tillering today unless I decide I want to do something more, never know. :-\ :) :) :)
Pappy
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You enjoying that retirement life. Now you have more time to be busy.🤠🤠
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I’m busier now then when I was working! It’s a good busy though.
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Well humidity down to 65 so I worked on the tiller. No set at 20”. 40# at 20” on the long string. Getting close on tiller. But I want more recurve in the ends . New caul. Going to deep heat once more. Will have to retiller to final weight.
Looking good buddy. The mass is coming off with every heat you do it seems. Like you say more to come off with the handle yet. Just be careful not to let the heat treatment wrap around to the backside and scorch all that hard work down the drain. If you have some rocksol insulation or something to fill those gaps with where the shims are that would prevent the heat going around the belly onto the back. I’d say your in good shape with your numbers at 20” draw. Very interesting build along brother. Be very interested in final weight/mass in the end.
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Couple of thoughts on heat and wood.
For "heat treating," if you use radiant heat, you can heat from one surface and quit heating before the heat reaches the other surface.
Steaming can only bring the wood to the temperature at which water boils, which is the minimum for bending. So, since it is useful to heat all the way through for bending, steam is good, but a heat gun is better.
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Not sure yet but these width dimensions and length dimensions that I gave On page one I’m sure would work on locust also. Everyone says I over build in width but that’s what works for me. ive only built a couple of black locust bows . But if you want to send me a really good stave I’ll try one.🤠
If I only had one! I'm using my last piece of seasoned wood for my latest build
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Still pouring the heat to this hickory. This is the strangest bow I’ve ever built. The limbs are turning out thinner than my Osage bow of the same dimensions. Physical mass tells me this should not be. Wood that’s less dense floats higher in the water. Which tells Arvin and the bowyers bible it should take more physical mass than Osage. But it seams to be coming out less. I don’t get it. What is the heat doing to this hickory to make this happen???? Wood has sap . Least I’m going to call it that. Could it be sap is turning liquid during the heat process then when it cools filling the voids in the cells. Then cooling like roofing tar? This is Weird like those people in Austin Tx.🤠🤠🤠
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This is very interesting Arvin...you're sure making it sound like the whole "firehardening" thing could be true. I'm sure looking forward to the finished product. :OK
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Still pouring the heat to this hickory. This is the strangest bow I’ve ever built. The limbs are turning out thinner than my Osage bow of the same dimensions. Physical mass tells me this should not be. Wood that’s less dense floats higher in the water. Which tells Arvin and the bowyers bible it should take more physical mass than Osage. But it seams to be coming out less. I don’t get it. What is the heat doing to this hickory to make this happen???? Wood has sap . Least I’m going to call it that. Could it be sap is turning liquid during the heat process then when it cools filling the voids in the cells. Then cooling like roofing tar? This is Weird like those people in Austin Tx.🤠🤠🤠
The beauty of fire hardening white woods. Lignins and pectins in the wood harden up and make the wood less likley to take on moisture. You will have noticed perhaps that when you pulled the bow off the caul the clamps were loose. The bow wood cells shrink and condense in size some in addition to the lignins and pectins hardening.
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Bob it’s coming along. I’ve had it to 20” but I got the ends to thin and they want to pull out so I might not hit 50#. I still have more to pull off the inner limbs so hopefully the ends will be ok. I. Wanted to test this bow to the same design Of Osage 47@28”,
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I certainly hope it makes your draw weight... it's my hunting draw weight and I have a stave to try if it works. :) :OK
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I have stacked shims high enough to get my fat fingers under the back. When I did the last heat after removing wood from the belly I can feel the back getting warm. Not hot but warm. So it’s starting to cook al the way through.
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Enjoying following along on this post, good read. Thanks for taking the time! In My limited experience good hickory takes 3+ times the heat as the best locust I have worked. Bow is looking very good. looking forward to what you finish up with.
Mike
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You could put some non flammable fabric or insulation between your shims along the back between your caul and back of your bow. This will help prevent heat to wrap around onto the back.
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Dave I think it’s heat radiating thru the wood in this case. I moving the gun like I use to see Gary Davis do it at the classic.
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Ok not finished with the bow. But here is some test results. 1-1/4” set through out the limbs.47@28” shot 175 with 10gpp. Shot the best Broadhead flight arrow 200yds. Dave I need to take the superdave school of tillering. Good bow. 24.9 Ioz but I still have one more oz coming out in handle. Now if you are paying attention to the pic of my tillering board and see the force draw curve in two inch increments you will know what a fifty pound Osage bow can do with 462 gr broadhead arrow. 239 yds. That bow is traced out on the cut outs . Strung and unstrung. No secrets hear guys . Build a better force draw and records are there to be had. Go for it Bob the hickory will definitely compete with Osage. Dave my lost yardages came from set which you can see while the bow sets on tiller tree. That changed my pounds on the force draw curve in the first half of the draw. Strung it weighed in at 10” of draw at 9.4 pounds instead of 12 pounds. That’s what set does to a bow. Arvin
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Pic of bow on tillering board.
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Strung
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It looks like it's almost ready to hunt Arvin. Thanks for doing this. Once Dave posts his how to on hardening white woods, I will have a hickory stave ready to go. You two make life a whole lot easier for me... I just have to follow instructions now. :) :OK
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Ok not finished with the bow. But here is some test results. 1-1/4” set through out the limbs.47@28” shot 175 with 10gpp. Shot the best Broadhead flight arrow 200yds. Dave I need to take the superdave school of tillering. Good bow. 24.9 Ioz but I still have one more oz coming out in handle. Now if you are paying attention to the pic of my tillering board and see the force draw curve in two inch increments you will know what a fifty pound Osage bow can do with 462 gr broadhead arrow. 239 yds. That bow is traced out on the cut outs . Strung and unstrung. No secrets hear guys . Build a better force draw and records are there to be had. Go for it Bob the hickory will definitely compete with Osage. Dave my lost yardages came from set which you can see while the bow sets on tiller tree. That changed my pounds on the force draw curve in the first half of the draw. Strung it weighed in at 10” of draw at 9.4 pounds instead of 12 pounds. That’s what set does to a bow. Arvin
Nice bow and numbers Arvin. Id hunt with that bow! A little more set then you wanted I know but I suspect that has more to do with the heat treatment then your tillering. Your tillering is likley way better then mine on a good day. I will do a detailed build with hickory shortly and go thru my entire process for deep heat treatment. I’ll use hot coals or good brickets if it’s easier for everyone. The brickets last good long time too if good brand used. I feel a deeper heat treatment can be had with coal bed. I realize not every one has access to this but if you can do it it’s better in my opinion.
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Ok I put a coat of true oil on it and heated it one more time . No set! Till I pull it back.🤠🤠🤠
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Please c
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Pic
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It looks great Arvin...even the osage tips. :) Maybe the pores were filled with hot tru-oil and they will not collapse after cooling... (-S
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Been silently following along Arvin since I have no hands on experience with hickory, and am still a novice with Osage. I’m very impressed with your results. Thanks for posting so much detail along the way.
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Finished mass 23.9 oz
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so you hit the weight that you wanted, a mass that you predicted, a great speed at 175fps, a beautiful tiller, and a killer looking profile unstrung, strung, and at full draw... what's not to like? :) Wood varies so much that maybe the next one will shoot further and faster...maybe not, but it's still a killer bow. Thanks! :OK
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Dave I don’t get it. This mass is 1/4 less in size yet it weighs the same as Osage. AND ITS HICKORY . This must be very dense. Where is Badger at?
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My thinking is that there is still some heat treatment that can be done or should have been done prior to 20” draw. After about 20” it starts showing signs of set in limbs. If a deep heat treatment is done prior to this then the cells of the wood are hardened sufficient to better withstand the approaching set generally after 20”. This is depending on many things like method of tiller and bow design and wood quality. I’m pretty sure your tiller is spot on and the wood is good so I think there may have been more heat treatment that could have been done perhaps or maybe there are limits to the heat gun or your set up for heat treatment. On my end here I saw less mass and very little set. The end result was similar to your bow in style and basic dimensions so the only other reason in my mind would be the heat treatment difference. In fact I believe if I sent you a heat treated blank you’d likley get better results the I would with it. With your experience on your design I believe this to be the case. It’s my feeling it is to be the deciding factor.
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I feel smarter just knowing you two (Arvin and Dave)... :OK I think Dave is likely spot on about the difference being the heat treat...that's why I'm really looking forward to his super Dave informative heat treating tutorial. Maybe we can even get Marc to chime in...? I miss hearing from you Marc. Thanks guys...this is good stuff that will help lots of people make better bows.
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Dave have you ever cooked one in a hot box. I have tried Osage this hat way eats ago. Trying to dry green wood with little success. My hot box will maintain about 180-200 degrees. My fear is the back might get to hot. But I could clamp a fire hose between the caul and the bow with maybe just 5-10 pounds or air in it . Trying to protect the back some . 5-7 hours should dry it out I would think.
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I have the belly drops . Maybe I can test moisture on them. One reduced to close to li
B form and one just the drop and see what happens in moisture content.
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Dave have you ever cooked one in a hot box. I have tried Osage this hat way eats ago. Trying to dry green wood with little success. My hot box will maintain about 180-200 degrees. My fear is the back might get to hot. But I could clamp a fire hose between the caul and the bow with maybe just 5-10 pounds or air in it . Trying to protect the back some . 5-7 hours should dry it out I would think.
I have done hot box but I think I overdid it and couple of my bows exploded. It may have been coincidental but I wonder if it got too dry and brittle on an already dried piece of wood. I ended up dismantling it and storing it away to make room for other things.
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Dave I don’t get it. This mass is 1/4 less in size yet it weighs the same as Osage. AND ITS HICKORY . This must be very dense. Where is Badger at?
Hi Arvin
following the build with interest and want to ask what you mean
This mass is 1/4 less in size yet it weighs the same
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Willie the Osage is wider, thicker, and the handle is bigger than the hickory. The bowyers bible state’s the opposite because of mass density. That’s weird. Both 47@28d
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oh, a 1/4 inch less in width at the fades, but it looks like you have carried more width further down the limbs with the hickory.
Do you have a dry place to keep it until next Sept?
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Willie what I’m trying to say is this hickory is as dense as Osage!here is 50# bows with the mass written on the blue tape. The Osage handle have more mass .the narrow recurve weighs about the same.
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Pic same order.
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Very interesting Arvin. The hickory seems to have less set then the Osage bows pictured there. I realize you didn’t retain as much set as you were hoping for on this one but as far a a first go at heat treated hickory bow I’d say it’s pretty dang good!