Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Russ on April 04, 2022, 07:49:19 pm
-
This is a hickory belly split off of the second and the second one had 2 knots. One is a branch that was cut off and a knot right in the middle. Thoughts? Would you need more pictures?
-
Go for it , and learn from it. Nothing ventured , nothing gained.
-
If there is enough clean wood around the knots, then you should get a bow out of it. If not don't bother.
-
First thing I would do is stand them up so I could get a good look at them.
25 years ago, I would try to make a bow out of about anything. Now, the wood has to look decent, or I cut it up for firewood, and I don't even have a chimney.
-
Very true baseman
That’s what I’m hoping for hamish! I’m just stumped at how I’m going to design around the knots. Especially that first one
Yeah Jim’s I’m at that point… I’m at that point where I’ll try to make a bow out of anything… it’s becoming very frusturating because I can’t seem to get my hands on a nice stave, and when I do I seem to mess it up unknowingly (like what’s happening to the persimmon one I’m working on… didn’t seal it properly and now I’m paying the consequences)
I think I’ll chase a ring when I got time. These have nice big rings. Until then, any and all advise is greatly appreciated!
-
Years ago, a friend(? ::) ) gave me 3 good size osage staves that should have been cut up into firewood. I studied those staves and started trying to make something out of them. They had every problem you could imaging for a selfbow stave, knots, holes, twists, bends, etc.
I spent all winter working on them, learning as I went and by spring I had 5 shootable bows, not pretty, some pretty low weight but I ended up with 5 shootable bows. Use these staves as a challenge and make bows. As long as you are learning, even if they never become shootable bows it is not a failure. Go for it! :BB
-
I second what bassman says. Just go for it. I’ve made good hickory bows with questionable stave before. As long as you got enough clean wood underneath that knot you’ll be good. It looks closer to handle too so might be ok. On a stave similar to this I just used a rasps for most of my wood removal on the problem limb. Heat treating helps too I think to strengthen up. I would leave it thicker at this spot when heat treating too in case cracks develop so that you can file and scrape away any cracks. Hickory is strong stuff I think you be able to get something out of it. Good luck.
-
Ok I’m going try!
Holy crap this is gonna be hard!!
I get why people don’t like chasing a ring on hickory
-
Russell, take your time with this build. If you find yourself getting frustrated, angry, defeated, just put down your tools and walk away and come back later after you calm down. Let the wood teach you and don't try to push too hard.
-
"That’s what I’m hoping for hamish! I’m just stumped at how I’m going to design around the knots. Especially that first one"
Work out the design of the bow length, width, shape that you would make if the stave was clean. Draw that shape, dimensions on a board or piece of ply.(you only need to do one limb if the limbs will be even)
Mark out a centreline that follows the grain. Transpose the measurements onto the line. Add to the width around the knots , flowing like a river around a large rock. If the limb needs to be 2" wide, and you have 3/4"wide knot, then the width from one edge to the other needs to be 2&3/4" wide at that spot.
-
Will do pat!!! It’s been a slow process… sealing the back, leaving, coming back to work on it, re sealing when I’m done… but it’s been pretty fun. I want this bow to be a good one so I’m going slow
I’ll do that hamish!! Thanks! Once I get a ring chased I’ll figure out my design like you said, but I think I’m going to try a mollegabart bow since the stave gets really thin in width at the tips… plus… ive always wanted to try one
-
That knotted area needs to remain somewhat flat in relation to the rest of the limb. Don't go for the picture perfect tiller.
Jawge