Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: wooddamon1 on February 24, 2022, 08:32:48 pm
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Hey guys, I'm working on my 5th bow and planning on trying a static recurve and have a couple questions.
First, is a gradual, even taper of the limb thickness still necessary? Or is it okay to have an even thickness from the ends of the fades to the start of the curves?
Second, I plan to leave the tips full width while bending (1 1/2"), does that seem excessive, or good to go? I want to make sure I have enough there for tweaking alignment if necessary, correct?
Third, I plan to steam the entire bow and clamp it in my reflex form, wait a couple day then I'll do the tips with dry heat. Does that sound like a plan?
At this point the back profile is laid out with the grain, which is the straightest I've worked so far. Just a slight twist on one end to correct when it's on the form. Trying for 50#@28". The stave is 66"
Thanks for any tips and insight!
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The ultimate limb thickness always depends on the tiller. If the limbs have parallel sides the thickness will have to taper some to bend properly. You could go ahead and narrow the tips to 1" to 3/4" wide then re-shape later to the final shape. Less wood will be easier to bend. I have bent full width recurves successfully but narrower would bend easier. If you can get the belly to one ring where you bend it there will be less of a splintering chance.
Are you going to steam the tips? If so you can seal the back with shellac where you steam to help prevent any checking as it dries after steaming.
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Absolutely a good taper is necessary. Recurves work best with a parallel width limb, start your width taper 10 inches or so from the recurves. The 'extra' width helps to stop them twisting.
Do not steam the entire bow. Use dry heat to heat treat/ shape the limbs. Boil your tips under water. Under the water is much better than steam.
1 1/2" wide is fine but make sure they aren't too thick - most common mistake people make. The center of the limb shouldn't be more than 1/2" to 5/8ths thick.
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good advise given.. good luck...gut
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Thank you guys, very appreciative!
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I steam mine, but boiling would probably be better. 1/2 hour for each 1/2in of thickness. Would not recommend dry heat for static tips, just my opinion....
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Trying a pic post. Got it down to blank size, no pics yet.
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Thanks, Stixnstones, that's the plan now after more research. Boil the tips then bend.
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Another pic of where I'm leaving off for today. I think I'm ready to heat some reflex in tomorrow if I have time.
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Lookin good
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Good luck wooddamon1
I do like bownarra.
Bjrogg
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I forgot to say a couple of days soaking the tips underwater makes a HUGE difference!
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Thanks again, guys!
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Got most of the deflex out with dry heat, then boiled the tips and bent them. A little more heat tweaking for the tips, but not much. Then some rounding, rawhide backing and walnut tips before tillering. Looked good to my newbie eyes on the floor.
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Forgot this pic
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Looks like a crack on the side of the tip bend, but it's just a mark from the tea kettle I boiled the tips in. Pic freaked me out for a second. Whew!
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One other thing to keep in mind. A static recurve has a lot more early string tension and will feel quite heavy as soon as you start to draw. As the string lets off it makes the increase in weight a little more gradual than a straight limb. It’s easy to get fooled into thinking you have more weight than you do if your use to straight bow.
They are also a bit more difficult to string. Takes a little getting use to.
Bjrogg
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Thanks, BJ. I've owned a couple static tip glass bows and you're right about early string tension. Wouldn't have known to watch for that on this one. I assume I can just follow the rule of not pulling past my intended draw weight as I tiller? Really wanting at least 45# with this one and plan on taking it slow.
Any more advice from anyone is more than welcome, you guys that commented have already helped a lot. Thanks again!
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Yes I would just pull to my intended draw weight. I never had a static recurve until I made one and the first one I made really fooled me. I have a pretty short draw so once I get to brace I like to be pretty close on my tiller. By the time I got braced and got a decent tiller I was under weight. It’s just a little different.
Bjrogg