Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Freeflynick on October 27, 2021, 04:33:45 pm
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Hello!
A friend of mine said they had an osage tree on their property and sent me the attached photo. I see the fruit but the bark doesn't look right.
If it is, do you see any limbs that look suitable? Looks like a couple in the upper right that might be useable.
This will be my first attempt at using osage and certainly first time harvesting, and since they live 3 hours away I need to be sure before I plan a trip there. Is there anything I should know about harvesting a limb? Is there a right time of year to do it?
Thanks guys!
Nick
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Unfortunately the pic quality isn't so good when I got it down to postable size. Here is a crop of the limb I am interested in....do you see any issues with it? Hard to tell, I know, but I am just excited to get an opportunity to get my hands on some orange gold!!
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Yep, it is, the two limbs that form a V in the middle have promise.
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That's what I wanted to hear! Thanks!!
Is there a prime time to harvest? I'm thinking December will be my opportunity......
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Whenever you can harvest osage is the best time to do so. Winter time is nice because there are no bugs, snakes and cooler weather to work.
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Remember if you can't find a limb straight enough and long enough for the bow you plan on making you might still be able to make a takedown bow with two shorter limbs.
Osage may be the very best wood for bows but finding a proper stave can be a problem.
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I'm not usually picky when it comes to osage because most isn't straight enough for bowstaves(billets will increase your chances). I take what I can get, which usually means lots of character bows and heat straightening.
Like Eric mentions some of those mid high branches might be okay. There are no guarantees, and you won't know until you get there and see how many knots and how the grain runs.
If there isn't any suitable wood on that tree there might be some osage on a neighbors property. Always keep your eyes open, you will rarely find a single osage by itself.
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Where I now live in southwest MO there is lots of Osage. Finding a 6’ stave could be impossible. Finding a 40” piece is more doable. Where I’m from in south central MO you can find a suitable tree occasionally in the river bottoms. I haven’t had any problems glueing 2 pieces together
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"Finding a 40” piece is more doable" Is a 40" piece suitable for a bow? Or are you saying 2 x 40" pieces could make a take down? That could also be fun....haven't tried one of those before. Sounds like a trip to east Texas is in my future, and after that, the potential for a lot of failures / learning opportunities, and maybe eventually a fantastic bow!! I have only made about 7 bows, and none for the last year, so I am very excited about this.
Thanks again for your words of wisdom!
Nick
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Yes 2 pieces 40” could give you wood to splice together, or make a takedown. Seal the ends as soon as possible, and if you remove the bark make sure you remove the sap wood also, and seal the back as soon as you do to prevent checking.
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I would much rather make a bow from billets that grew side by side in a stave. With a full length stave you often have wider rings on the bottom and more narrow ones on the top, clear wood on the bottom and more pins as you go up.
With sister billets you get closely matched wood in each piece.
Takedowns are a pain to build and not for the beginner, spliced billets are the way to go.
Draw out your pattern on a piece of paper;
(https://i.imgur.com/VKPLYW7.jpg)
Draw a centerline on your billet and glue the pattern onto the stave with white Elmer's glue and orientate the pattern in line with the centerline.
(https://i.imgur.com/ggBTo30.jpg)
Cut out your pattern on the wood, the picture is of a limb replacement;
(https://i.imgur.com/rCBPL7o.jpg)
Sometimes the fit won't be very good, a little sanding and filing the high spots to fit may be necessary before glue up.
(https://i.imgur.com/kmHzjlj.jpg)
Done deal;
(https://i.imgur.com/REax5g4.jpg)
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That is awesome information Eric - thank you so much! I never would have thought that a glue-up like that would be strong enough.
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Most of my bows are take-downs these days. WAY easier than splicing.
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Now Jim, it is all about preference and experience, you are really good at sleeves, I am really good at splicing, I think it is a tie.
I can probably have a splice glued up in 15 minutes, what I like about splices is having the ability to perfectly align the centerlines tip to tip with one clamp on the splice prior to putting the next two clamps on. I can also add just a little reflex to the splice if I want to.
To answer the question about strength, there is a lot of glue surface in a splice, I have done about 100 of them and never had one come apart. Your choice of glue an important part of the equation as well.
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Well Eric, I know you are very good at splices. I did a lot of them, and they do work well. I think I may be a little bit inclined to seek efficiency of thought (mental laziness) and the jointed billets seem easier.
Miss getting to shoot with you. 'Bama seems a little farther as my legs shrink. 8-)
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I may be done shooting tournaments, old age and all that go with it has me ramping down my activities, I even sold my camper when I realized my hitting the road again was very unlikely.
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If the landowner will permit it you might try coppicing the tree (leaving a tall stump) then in a few years you can get some pretty nice staves. All depends on how readily you can access the property as you would probably want to do some pruning of the new shoots. We’ve had really good luck doing so with oak on a property I’ve hunted for 30 years.