Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Allyn T on January 04, 2021, 06:15:03 am
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What do you guys use for wood reduction when tillering? I'm trying a shinto rasp and a cabinet scraper but I'm not sure I like it.
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Mostly a spokeshave and then cabinet scraper. If it's a stave with more character I will use a rasp before the cabinet scraper. If you don't like the cabinet scraper, it's probably not sharp. A well sharpened one can really hog off wood.
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I use a half pair of scissors with a hook rolled on the edge, then a properly sharpened cabinet scraper and finish up with a $13 palm sander from Walmart.
(https://i.imgur.com/8yhCgMP.jpg)
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After floor tiller I use a #49 Nicholson rasp some but mostly a scraper. This may take a little longer but, for me, it insures I don't over do it.
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I am with you Pat, I NEVER put a rasp on the belly of a bow after floor tiller, too many "got in a hurry" hinged limbs in my past.
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Ok guys, I'll stick with scraping. I might try scissors too. Eric do you roll an edge on the back side of the already sharpened side? I felt like the scraper wasn't getting through the rasp marks fast enough. It makes shavings not dust but they are see through they are so thin
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I just use my knife. It’s usually sharp and works pretty good. The shavings are very thin also. The belt sander is faster but contributes more to my corner of shame. Which is getting pretty full.
The old timers where I grew up worked their handles down with a broken fruit jar. Used like you would a piece of chert it works pretty good but no better than my knife.
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Spoke shave, Draw knives, series of knives,series of rasps,sand paper. After a while you seem to know what tool to use when.
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I generally finish up floor tillering with a Nicholson 49. Then begin coming down the tillering tree while using a Nicholson 50 or big double cut bastard file to rough it up, then use the Bowyer's Edge and/or cabinet scrapers to remove those rasp or file marks. As tillering progresses a little further, all file marks are gone, and I use just the Bowyer's Edge and scrapers, maybe using a small file to address any washboarding before it gains a foothold. I do all radiused bellies and establish three distinct belly facets while floor tillering and maintain them until it's largely tillered. As I bring the tiller home, just a few strokes of the scraper and sandpaper finishes it up.
I have a Shinto and tried it a couple times, but it hasn't grown on me yet. Maybe if I continue using it. For now, I like the Nicholsons better.
When actually coming down the tree tillering though, I rarely touch a rasp again. It's generally all Bowyer's Edge and scrapers, with a touch of file work here and there.
There's more than one way to skin this cat.
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I'll piddle around with it and see how it goes
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I like a Shinto file. With one course ans one fine side it should work well for limb reduction. I've noticed thart the fine side does a good job of cleaning up coarse tool marks.
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I use an Accusharp scissors sharpener to roll the hook on my scissors, turn the scissors bevel side up and make a couple of passes with the sharpener at a steep angle, it will make one heck of a hook and cut like crazy. It dulls after an hour or so of scraping but can be retouched very easily.
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I might have to try that Eric. Pat I'll use the shinto some more and see how I like it
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I love using good, sharp cabinet scrapers, but can't sharpen one to save my life. Must be doing something wrong.
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i use a wrasp with a light touch, then my knife
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Good youtube videos on sharpening card scrapers.
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Good youtube videos on sharpening card scrapers.
Yeah, I've watched half a dozen of them and tried to follow their directions. I'm missing something. Can't turn a burr to save my life. I'll keep trying...
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Pappy lays his scrapers on a belt sander on edge to get a flat edge giving 2 sharp corners. I've done it the same some too to speed up the process. It doesn't create a hook but it does give a sharp corner for scraping
What I do mostly is put the scraper in a vice with one edge up then use a bastard file to flatten that edge. I go from one side, about 5 or 6 runs with the file then go from the other direction. Once I've done this I take a round shank screw driver and rub it back and forth along the corner at about 2 degrees(not very steep at all) to form the hook then go to the other corner and do the same. This gives me 2 good hooks to work with.
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I used to use a screwdriver shank but bought a real scraper burnisher the other day, the results are daylight and dark by comparison.
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I usually have a pretty set idea of starting dimensions for the bows I make. A lot of wood comes off from these starting dimensions. I will rough out with a hatchet or bandsaw to just over my idea of starting point. At that point I will hog off material quickly with the coarse side of my farriers rasp and half round rasp for the fades. Once bending on the floor about right I switch to the finer side of the rasp till all the coarse marks are out and then switch to scraping. I will use a scraper and sandpaper for all wood removal at this point.
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I do initial shaping with a hatchet. Then continue with a draw knife. After, I use a surform on the long string. Sometimes, I'll alternate a surform with my Swedish push knife as a scraper. Once I string, I only used the push knife as a scraper to full draw. Jawge.
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I sharpen cabinet scrapers as detailed in Hunting the Osage Bow by Dean Torges. I learned how on my first selfbow and never looked back. Goosenecks are a little more challenging due to their shape, but certainly doable. Same process. Mine are about due to be sharpened again.
Sometimes, if they're not too bad you can get away with just rolling the hook again, but other times that doesn't work and you have to perfectly square the edges again on stones, burnish/polish them in, then roll the hook. Still only takes about 10-15 minutes. But true happiness is a freshly sharpened scraper running down an osage bow... or better yet, yew! I just love it.
I use an actual burnisher also, with a drop or two of light oil. In cross section, it's sort of tear drop shaped, with one edge thicker and more rounded than the other. The thinner edge rolls a slightly bigger hook with less pressure.
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depends on what I am tillering.. cedar I tiller with sandpaper..osage I use a cabinet scraper hickory I use a cabinet scraper, Ipe I use a rasp... the woods dictates what I use.. Ipe just dulls my scrapers.. gut
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I mainly use a mystic scraper...I use it to chase a ring and clean up the back and during tillering. I’ve tried the gooseneck and other cabinet scrapers, and they seem too flimsy...and I know I didn’t have them sharpened correctly. I just put the mystic on the belt sander flat on its edge and it sharpens right up. That said, I don’t see or hear of many people using one, and I’ve been wondering if a well sharpened cabinet scraper is a better option. Does anyone on here use the mystic scraper or has anyone used it and abandoned it and if so...why?
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Thanks for all the replys guys, looks like scraping is the tillering king regardless of what kind of scraper you use.
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I have a Mystik scraper and abandoned it many years ago. The main reason was because it too often would leave little scratches behind in the wood. I never tried sharpening it with a sander though, so maybe that works better. Bernie Swank told me to sharpen it with a file, drawfiling the edge while using it kind of like a burnisher on a regular scraper, so that's what I did. It worked, just left a slightly jagged edge and I prefer them smooth. It is solid though, I'll give ya that. But in my opinion, a well sharpened cabinet scraper is better. If properly sharpened, you shouldn't have to push on it hard enough to flex it. It should cut wood used in one hand with just a finger and thumb.
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I like my Mystic Scraper. Admittedly, I have yet to get the hang of sharpening cabinet scrapers.