Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Walski on September 12, 2020, 06:26:29 am
-
I've never built a primitive bow and though I'd try making one, so I purchase this log and split it but, it's twisted, can I still make a bow from it?
-
how long is it? i'm not overly familiar with yew but i thin there's still bows in there.
-
Yeah, I think there's bows there depending on the length. There's definitely billets. How thick is the sapwood? Split it or preferably saw it into smaller pieces. If I was doing it I would band saw it following the twist more or less.
-
Not enough twist to worry about. You can correct it easily with a little heat once you get them down to size.
-
I measured the sapwood at 1/4", the radius of a half log is 16", how many staves can I get from this half log?
I appreciate all of your help.
-
I forgot about the log length, the logs are 6'-6" long.
-
Is the picture distorted? When I look at it it looks like slabs not a round log that has been split in half. 16" radius?? That would mean the log was 32" through. That's an awful big Yew. But 1/4" sapwood is great as long as it's sound and 6'6" is also great.
-
Not enough twist to worry about. You can correct it easily with a little heat once you get them down to size.
This is my opinion as well
-
Not enough twist to worry about. You can correct it easily with a little heat once you get them down to size.
This is my opinion as well
+1
Del
-
What width of staves (measured from top of the pie shape) do I cut from this log for building bows?
The photo does look distorted, so I added some to correct that.
-
You can see how bad the twist is by looking at the two steel bars at each end.
-
Don't worry about the twist. Get the stave you are working on, get it to floor tiller stage or better at first brace so you can see how the string tracks. At that point you have less wood to move and you can make other corrections at the same time you remove the twist. if necessary.
-
assuming there are no major knots or other defects for you to navigate around i would just start by splitting it in half again, and again ect until you don't feel confident about splitting a good width stave from what's remaining.
-
I agree with Pat. Here is how I remove twist after it has been floor tillered.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/fixtwist.html
Jawge
-
you never know what will happen until it does. then you'll know more about what to do next!!
-
Here's a post from my blog, you can follow the subsequent posts and see that it turned into a fine bow (still with the twist).
It's just to show that twist isn't necessarily a problem. I've also made bow where I removed the twist, so either way is possible.
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.com/2011/09/explain-more.html (https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.com/2011/09/explain-more.html)
Del
-
When can I start the floor tillering process, this tree was cut this August?
Where can I get plans on building a longbow that doesn't bend in the handle?
You guys are a wealth of knowledge, and thanks again.
-
Generally the floor tillering process doesn't strain the bow enough to worry about. Your main concern is getting limbs bending evenly and you don't need more than about 4" or so of tip movement to complete floor tillering.