Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mojomfg on August 07, 2020, 09:36:47 pm
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I want to build my first bow. A Reflex . I have some nice ipe and bamboo .. I have a 33" inch draw and would like it to be at or under 40# at full draw .. Here are some of my questions
Can a bow with this combo draw 33" at about 68" tip to tip?
How thick should the ipe and boo be cut down to ?
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Can a bow with this combo draw 33" at about 68" tip to tip?
yes it's possible, but challenging. if your a big enough guy to draw 33, 72" or more might be easier. what kind of bow do you draw 33" with?
How thick should the ipe and boo be cut down to ?
someone with bamboo/ipe experience should be along soon.
I want to build my first bow. A Reflex . I have some nice ipe and bamboo ..
might I suggest your first be a straight bow, or at least learn to tiller on a simple stave or board? Trying too many things at once makes learning the basics harder than it needs to be.
What limb shape are you thinking about?
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I can shoot a 32" inch compound with as much "slack" in my release as possible and string loop and anchoring at the corner of my mouth ...
I do have a lot of woodworking experience and every woodworking tool and machine there is
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not too familiar with releases and compounds, but if you anchor at the corner of your mouth and are a normal sized guy, I would take the time to see what your draw length would be with a bow like you want to build and a finger hold on the string at your release point.
tillering to 33" or sizing your new bow to draw that far may be unnecessary. with wood bows one likes to make the bow come in at the desired weight and draw length and never plan to draw further.
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Im quite certain i need a 33" draw
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What Willie said!
If it's your first bow and it's a long draw... make it straight. It will be easier to tiller (much easier to judge the curve) and better suited to a long draw.
Once you have a few under your belt, go for fancy stuff.
If you try for a reflex design, I'll put money on you coming in under weight!
Another good thing with a straight bow, is that you can cut an inch or so off each end and gain some draw weight... do that on a reflex and what you gain by shortening, you lose by removing reflex.
Keep it simple.
Del
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not too familiar with releases and compounds, but if you anchor at the corner of your mouth and are a normal sized guy, I would take the time to see what your draw length would be with a bow like you want to build and a finger hold on the string at your release point.
The compound guys normally anchor well behind the corner of their mouth with the mechanical release. If OP has his release set slack, is using a long D loop and has to anchor on the corner of his mouth with a 32" draw compound then he will probably be close to 33" with a stick bow. At minimum he will be 32" for sure.
OP, I will add my voice to the crowd suggesting you start with a basic flat bow first before trying to add reflex, recurves or any other extra feature. I will also agree that you should be making a 72" bow with that draw length. The rule of thumb for bow length is 2x your draw + 10" (= 76" in your case). That is a very long bow, but 72" should be safe for you.
Considering how far you are drawing, start with a wide piece of wood to let you have thin limbs that can take that much bend.
Mark
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I have often thought a "rule of thumb" for estimating thicknesses would be useful.
as for the bamboo,
bamboo backing thickness site:http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/ (http://bamboo backing thickness site:http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/)
bamboo backing preparation site:http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf (http://bamboo backing preparation site:http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf)
and welcome to PA