Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: simk on July 06, 2020, 06:16:54 am
-
OK, here's some pic's from my bow discussed on DC's "Boo Yew RD-Topic"... ;D
It's the one that snapped the belly when the string popped off...discussed here http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,67950.msg954618.html#msg954618 (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,67950.msg954618.html#msg954618)
As the repair was a little doubtful I tillered it down to relief stress from the glued spot and also did a wrap. Tillering down I didn't touched the glued area and just worked the inners, what resulted in an aggressive tiller with good string angle at fd and almost no set. I'm glad I finished it - again learned some things and got my fastest bow so far. I have shot it a lot in the meantime and will do another fdc for you later...(can't find the old one anymore). Just for testing it was drawn to 29" a few times, so its safe now for my 26" draw.
I now did a handful of bows out of this caul and I'm thinking about doing a new one now. Currently thinking about on how to improve...DC's is an inspiration. Before doing that I will do a last bow on this one...an ash backed spruce (compression wood). Just wondering how the spruce performs compared to the yew.
Cheers
-
....just became pa member...why can I still only post 4 pics per post?.... :)
-
...
-
I like the Egyptian look ;) It's interesting that you got a fast bow when you dropped the weight to 36#. The same thing has happened to me a few times when I've messed up the tiller and come in light. I've done that quite a bit :-[ :-[
The 4 pic thing doesn't go away if you post on the site. The guys that post more pics are using a hosting site I believe.
-
DC, I do have a theory on this paradoxon ;D A lighter bow means less stress on the wood, means less set, means more tiller and design options. It's just like building kids bows ;D A heavy bow in theory might be faster, but its wayyy harder to achieve ;D Do you think your d/r design would work on 60#? just asking ;D
-
First off, it's not my design, I just copied Marc St. Louis :D :D
Less stress sounds like a good idea but all of my bows were originally tillered with 40# as my target. The light ones are ones that just happened because I messed up so I would think that they are just as stressed as a 40# bow. That said I have noticed a couple of times that I had a huge hinge that took no set when compared to the original tracing ??? ???
I think Marc made one that was over 100# so I see no reason 60# shouldn't work ;D ;D Speed at 10gpp would be interesting.
-
I like your latest bow. A nice gentle recurve is somehow appealing, and I will certainly be watching if you build another compression wood bellied bow.
There seems to be a deeper "belly" to the recurve closer to the handle and it flattens towards the tips. Have you found any advantage to this? or difference in the way the bow shoots?
Other similar designs have the most curve in the reflex further out the limb and come off the handle straighter.
I wish I knew more why one way would be better than the other.
-
thanx willie 😃 what do you actually mean by "deeper "belly" to the recurve closer to the handle and it flattens towards the tips"? its only hollowed levers...instead of slimming/thinning them...
-
I was asking about the side profile.
when looking at the curve of the reflex from the side, some bowyers make the curve gentle coming off the handle and have the reflex get sharper towards the tips.
others keep an even reflex curve through out the limb
others put more reflex closer to the handle and then the limb gets flatter towards the tip
I have seen some limbs that have a bend out of the handle, then the sharper part of the curve is mid limb and the outers are a more gentle bend again.
I have been curious what the pros and cons are of the different recurve styles and thought you might have some ideas
-
Like this one that Bownarra posted. I've imagined a bow like this for a while.
-
not quite that radical Don. I am looking at some subtle differences for use with all wood bows.
I posted a pic in another thread
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,68418.msg960662.html#msg960662 (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,68418.msg960662.html#msg960662)
-
wille: this profile is kinda angular style. I just came across it not long after I started doing bows and just experimented with it. It took a while until i got it working and I learned a lot with it - it was a good teacher. The reflex is concentrated on a fairly short section which makes it more difficult to preserve reflex. Thats something I probably change for the next; spreading the reflex more and more evenly towards the outers maybe improves the bow.
have the reflex get sharper towards the tips basically also seems a good idea also for a wooden bow imho. my experience is limited, can't say much more about.
the strung and fd pics of bownarras bow and a some more info about this incredible "thing" ;D really was interesting