Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Kidder on June 22, 2020, 11:41:26 pm
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Just wondering if anyone can shed some light on the timing of backing a bow with leather, snakeskin, cloth etc vs the tillering process. Presumably back it before final tillering? I’m dealing with a black locust tree that has the tightest rings I can find mentioned anywhere (approximately 22 rings per inch). First series of bows I’ve attempted so I’d be shocked if I have a single ring on any given stave so nonetheless intend to back them all. Secondly is it easier to chase a ring on a green stave, seal it and set it aside, or is it easier to chase a ring on a fully cured stave? Thanks!
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Just wondering if anyone can shed some light on the timing of backing a bow with leather, snakeskin, cloth etc vs the tillering process
if the backing is for added security, extra insurance... (sinew, wood, leather..) you should put it as soon as possible
if is mainly for cosmetic reason (snakeskin) better wait and reduce the chances to damage it while tillering
for your second question chase when dry and seasoned except maybe some wood where you're going to use the first ring immediately after the cambium
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I have found the best time to back a bow is before it breaks:)
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If I have to back I do so after long string tillering. Jawge
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like Jawge said for me
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after long string tillering and before brace..gut
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I'm with the 3 above me.
Also, I don't consider leather a good backing material. It will do the job but leather absorbs moisture easily and will transfer it to the wood.
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IF the bow needs backing why would you bend it before backing it??? :)
What is the purpose of the backing?
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Right after floor tiller with good ,or iffy staves.
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IF the bow needs backing why would you bend it before backing it??? :)
What is the purpose of the backing?
Most of us are born optimists. We bend a questionable stave just in case it survives long enough to the floor tillering. Then we proceed to long string tillering. We consider backing it only if we see any undeniable issues. We seldom plan on backing a stave without any visual defects, unless we are designing a backed bow with special characteristics, like bamboo backed ipe. Optimism is good for survival.
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if I am building a sinew backed bow.. I back it after long string tillering about 20 inches my draw is 26..this way the bow can get the most benefit of the sinew when it dries it will add reflex to the bow. If I backed it right after floor tiller it wouldn't get those benefits at all.. If I am building a boo backed. I do that during glue up and ad reflex deflex during the glue up.. If I am building a bow that ticks or lifts a splinter I do it when that happens and won't pull it again till backed..... as for snake skin I don't consider that a backing at all unless python( python is a thick snake skin almost as thick as rawhide, purely aesthetics with any other skin and I do that after bow is shot in, in case she blows... don't want to waste my snake skin... as for rawhide..same as sinew after long string before brace... leather to me not only is a hydrodcoptic material but too heavy also.. it stretches too... never used it as backing just handle wraps and strike plates only... now if I reduce a bow and violate rings or back.. I'll back it before long stringing and that my friend is the only time I back early...
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to answer your second question , mulberry seems to chase easier earlier.. difference in rings are hard to see on mulberry.. either way.. I find osage and locust chase much easier than mulberry.. I angle a light on stave till I can see the rings best.. mulberry I have to wet stave to see the early wood ...if stave is wet and you do chase a ring make sure your seal the back and ends with something or it will check.. locust is a good bow wood... enjoy...