Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Around the Campfire => Topic started by: KHalverson on May 17, 2020, 04:07:24 pm
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bees wax linseed oil and turpentine.
iv read it works for waterproofing leather, wood and metal.
been thinking on making some and using it on forged tools.
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I have used the recipe, not any commercial product by that name. the linseed will darken wood over time
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Using it on the metal or on handles?
Didn't get much imterest but here's a thread I started on a paste wax experiment if it helps
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,67249.msg945294.html#msg945294 (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,67249.msg945294.html#msg945294)
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I think the term "Linwax" is trademarked by the company that makes the finish called "Linspeed". That is a good hard finish used for musical instruments and gunstock. Check Brownell's catalog.
Hawkdancer
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Start with a 1:1:1 ratio, and adjust to taste?!
Hawkdancer
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Using it on the metal or on handles?
Didn't get much imterest but here's a thread I started on a paste wax experiment if it helps
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,67249.msg945294.html#msg945294 (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,67249.msg945294.html#msg945294)
thanks
trent tye from purgatory forge mentioned using it to treat wood, leather and steel.
as a rust inhibitor.
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Took me a bit to find it but this topic remonded me of a video on 18th century fat-wax. I'd guess the linseed oil would smell better than raccoon fat and the turpentine would make it smoother in applying.
Add the H to the beginning.
ttps://youtu.be/MattBVhFSwM
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I use all 3, just not together, sounds like an interesting mixture, may give that a try. ;)
Pappy
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I used to wipe down my bows with turpentine after final sanding then hand rub in linseed oil then wait a few days before adding Tru-Oil. Haven't done it in the last few years. I do use bear fat, bees wax and turpentine or pine pitch for leather treatment sometimes.