Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on April 25, 2020, 11:06:23 am
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There have been a few people post bows that they made using this DVD. They seemed quite pleased. I went looking for the site to buy the DVD. It's beyond me, I can't find a place to order it but then modern websites tend to confuse me. :-[ :-[
Also a while back there was a long post about this and a few people promised an expose on the method. Nothing has materialised.
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I found it. Can someone explain to me what a "streaming version" is?
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You're just paying to watch it like an online movie. You can just order the DVD from Shannon Outdoors if you want the actual DVD.
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Do you just get to see it once for the $29 or is it stored on your hard drive? What happens when your hard drive dies? I stopped caring about how computers works when I retired, now it's coming back to haunt me :D :D
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I could not tell you but it seems likely you would be saving it somehow.
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Dc I bought the streaming version. You can set up a password just like here and watch it over and over, just have to log in.
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When you buy the streaming version, you can watch it on their website as often as you want. You do not get to download the file, but you can log back in and watch it over and over.
I wrote a detailed review of the film on one of the threads where people were discussing it.
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i dont know, from reading threads it sounds like just a really really deep heat treat over a fire.
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Yeah, I'm not sure it's worth $30 just to find that out. Probably spend the $30 on one of those silicone heating pads
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Yeah, I'm not sure it's worth $30 just to find that out. Probably spend the $30 on one of those silicone heating pads
From the looks of it, its nothing new. I was doing that back in 2011 and posted about it on another page. I was using it to speed dry a bow stave I had cut days before. It does work great, but the hassle is also a pita.
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yes computers confuse me too,, I really prefer a big rasp,, or hatchet, (-S
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Probably spend the $30 on one of those silicone heating pads
this worked well with arrows and darts so I widened the slot for my next bow.
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Yeah, I'm not sure it's worth $30 just to find that out. Probably spend the $30 on one of those silicone heating pads
From the looks of it, its nothing new. I was doing that back in 2011 and posted about it on another page. I was using it to speed dry a bow stave I had cut days before. It does work great, but the hassle is also a pita.
Agreed, I’ve seen it. And it’s nothing new.
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Probably spend the $30 on one of those silicone heating pads
this worked well with arrows and darts so I widened the slot for my next bow.
Now that's brilliant!
Amazing what a photo can do, without the need for a DVD. This is even more inventive than coals. I'm really liking the ingenuity here.
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I'm rather annoyed with their claim of it being forgotten, and only they discovered it, so I dug up one of a few posts where I mentioned it back in 2011. I did note how hard the wood got. I think the heat treat did that, as it sat over coals all night.
I figured I'd better put up or shut up... So
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thanks Sleek,,
and thats a cool,, heating gizzmo,,thanks posting Willie
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Amazing what a photo can do
I almost forgot, that ugly can on the burner to the right goes inside the pot to diffuse the heat some.
is there a way to continue writing text in a post, after a pic has been attached?
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Amazing what a photo can do
I almost forgot, that ugly can on the burner to the right goes inside the pot to diffuse the heat some.
is there a way to continue writing text in a post, after a pic has been attached?
There is a button on each post you make that says "Modify"..Click it and you are in business. Its in the upper right hand corner of your post, where it says , " quote modify delete".
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Heat is heat no matter what the source IMO.Pateince is patience doing it right during the process along with it.
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Heat is heat no matter what the source IMO.Pateince is patience doing it right during the process along with it.
Yeah, but I think k Willie came up with an idea thats pretty darn noteworthy and should be published in PA
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I've treated bows over coals several times over the years as well. I've not seen any evidence that it does anything better than a good heat-treating with a heat gun. It does give a more uniform colour on the belly though
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yes but you :)can cook a hot dog when your done with the bow,, there are advantages to the coals,,
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That is a slick idea Willie but you can't see what's happening. I would be constantly checking the colour. If you turned the end burners on low you could pre and post heat ;D ;D Did you have any trouble getting an even colour?
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Heat is heat no matter what the source IMO.Pateince is patience doing it right during the process along with it.
Yeah, but I think k Willie came up with an idea thats pretty darn noteworthy and should be published in PA
I straighten arrow shafts easily and very well with a mantle lamp.It'll light a cigarette in about 10 seconds.Holding it farther way slows the
heating and extends the length of area heated.Slick and quick.
(https://i.imgur.com/3O1WiYf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Stl22vE.jpg)
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I've used a coal oil lamp like that. It does work well. And you don't need no lectricity :D
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That is a slick idea Willie but you can't see what's happening. I would be constantly checking the colour. If you turned the end burners on low you could pre and post heat ;D ;D
I keep it moving in a sawing motion and twisting motion to peek at the color. Thanks for the preheating idea.
Did you have any trouble getting an even colour?
haven't used it on a bow yet, in fact I finished widening the slot a few minutes before I posted the pic.
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is there a way to continue writing text in a post, after a pic has been attached?
I can edit a post OK. My problem is I cannot see an attached photo in the editor, so any text I write usually appears before the attached photo in the thread. there must be a way to write something under the photo, as I have seen other threads with multiple photos with text in between.
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Probably spend the $30 on one of those silicone heating pads
this worked well with arrows and darts so I widened the slot for my next bow.
I can see how that would do a nice even job.Have to keep checking though.
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is there a way to continue writing text in a post, after a pic has been attached?
I can edit a post OK. My problem is I cannot see an attached photo in the editor, so any text I write usually appears before the attached photo in the thread. there must be a way to write something under the photo, as I have seen other threads with multiple photos with text in between.
I haven't been able to get around that either. Writing on top, pics on the bottom. I think the guys that write in between pictures are using a picture hosting site. They type in whatever magic they need and the picture goes right there. Then they can continue writing. I may be wrong, I'm real good at that :)
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If you use a photo hosting site like Imgur then you can add text anywhere you want, between pics or after
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I guess I overreacted last time this came up. I don't think they're 'wrong' in the sense that what they're doing doesn't work. Shannon and Beckum are bowyers I really respect.
A lot of us have heat treated over coals in the past, because it's just about the first idea that comes to mind. Doesn't take long to realize how good the quality of a deep, long heat treat from coals can be. So it was a bit weird to see someone saying this is a modern rediscovery. That said, what I have seen of their content has been good bow making material. The bows are are well made and tillered.
After everything I've seen, I don't see a reason to put fire-hardening outside of the heat-treating spectrum. We can even call it Shannon fire hardening, but in my opinion it's still under the umbrella of heat treating.
Silicone heating strips are great by the way. I have one with a 0-400 F thermostat. It can easily get too hot. I can still get a higher quality heat treat with the heat gun, but the labor is much less. You only have to check on it every 10 or 15 minutes. Labor aside, I still think coals are the best way to heat treat. The way you can mold the coals around the bows character, or recurves, is really handy
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I don't think I have ever seen anyone put a bow on caul over a bed of coals to heat treat it before, correct me if I am wrong.
Old concepts with a new twist are what keep this bow making stuff interesting, my tillering gizmo is a case in point. I came up with the idea but two other people took my idea and added their twist to it to make it better. Thank you Daniel, he added the nut to the wood where I had set screws to hold the pencil, for the life of me I can't remember who came up with the pyramid shape to streamline it but it was a major improvement.
We had a saying at work when it came to problem solving in a very complex power plant; "none of us is as smart as all of us".
Keep the new twists coming, we all benefit.
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Dunno about anyone else but I've heat treated over coals a bunch of times, including using a caul. Heat from coals is really popular with eastern bowyers from what I've seen on youtube. I can't say for sure I've seen someone else use cauls over coals, but when I did it I don't remember thinking it was my idea.
Anyway, Shannon fire hardening is a great method. It works really well. Lots to love about a long deep heat treat. I just don't think there's any magic going on that makes it a different category from heat treating. I think the method is much better than the one I had. It much less fumbly and a lot easier. I won't spoil the content but I think its good. I still have my gripes with some of the marketing gimmicks, but I guess it was petty to make such a big deal about it.
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Dunno about anyone else but I've heat treated over coals a bunch of times, including using a caul. Heat from coals is really popular with eastern bowyers from what I've seen on youtube. I can't say for sure I've seen someone else use cauls over coals, but when I did it I don't remember thinking it was my idea.
Anyway, Shannon fire hardening is a great method. It works really well. Lots to love about a long deep heat treat. I just don't think there's any magic going on that makes it a different category from heat treating. I think the method is much better than the one I had. It much less fumbly and a lot easier. I won't spoil the content but I think its good. I still have my gripes with some of the marketing gimmicks, but I guess it was petty to make such a big deal about it.
Marketing is what got them in hot water with all of us. It should be marketed as a primitive heat treating video. That would have been VERY well recieved.
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Don’t forget the claim that this ‘forgotten’ juju made the wood hydrophobic.
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Bryce that is the part of the claim that I am hoping holds true. Made a couple almost done with a third using this process. I store my bows in my shop during the heat of Alabama summers. Will see how they hold up between now and hunting season. If they do not become sluggish it will be one more plus for the process.
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I've always just heated the wood over coals and then immediately clamped it to the caul after. Eliminated the potential problem of back damage.
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Bryce that is the part of the claim that I am hoping holds true. Made a couple almost done with a third using this process. I store my bows in my shop during the heat of Alabama summers. Will see how they hold up between now and hunting season. If they do not become sluggish it will be one more plus for the process.
Well I hate to tell ya amigo heat treating a bow won’t make it hydrophobic no matter what. They beat way to keep moisture out is proper wood finish. And even then moisture will still enter and exist the bow but on a very very small level.
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It actually does potentially greatly decrease susceptibility to being hygroscopic. It's giving the impression that it makes wood waterproof that is misleading.
With Hickory it eliminates the tendency to go back up to 12%.
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Bryce I put the massey finish on my hickory bows, so I know I'm good there. I have also duplicated there process as close as I can and will see what happens. I don't post a lot but have found lots of information on all the forums to be true but have also heard a lot of talk that turns out to be opinions and not experience. I understand that it will not stop moisture completely, but hoping that it will indeed slow it dramatically. This process has already helped me greatly as it allows corrections put it to hickory to stay instead of springing back and also allows a heat treat the likes of which I have never been able to do. Of course that could just be my lack of skill with my heatgun. Any help it gives to the hydrophobic side would be a big plus.
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I've always just heated the wood over coals and then immediately clamped it to the caul after. Eliminated the potential problem of back damage.
What potential for back damage did you expect with the belly facing down to the coals?
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With a caul in place the reflected heat seems like a potential issue, just as it may be with a heatgun
Do they show a caul being used over a fire in the video? The excerpts I've seen just show them hanging suspended or on a rack over the coals.
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In the past I've heat treated many hickory bows.I found out over the years that it can and does out perform other woods totally because it was heat treated.Retillered with less massed limbs but still maintaining profile.It can be an awakening experience.It does not lose any more draw weight than any other wood through the seasons on account of seasonal humidity fluctuations in my geographic location.It does get up to 70% humidity too for sustained periods of time.I do store them in an enviornment where it is generally 45 to 65 percent humidity year round.
I have and use all the essentials to properly test bows with.Chronograph and room to flight shoot.
I've said this years and years ago.It's still the same.
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just as it may be with a heatgun
it might possibly be lessened, as the coals are quite radiant also. you could chink the gap between the back and the caul with some insulation or mud to be safe.
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PatM it is clamped to a caul suspended over the coals.